AD truck temperture sender in SBC

[Sssingo]

Im sure there has been a previous post asking just this question but has anyone modified the temperture sender that comes off the dash gauge from 7/16 to 5/16 so it fits in #350 #sbc??

Any help / links or redirects very much appreciated
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[Sssingo]

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[Apachemike]

Home Depot reducer

[Old Crow]

The Edelbrock intake we used had 2 holes in the front coolant runner. We used one for the heater hose and one for the temp sender.

[Coach529]

The only solution I found was to send the unit off and have the capillary tube extended. The cost was too much for me to bear at the time, so I placed a small accessory temp gauge under the dash.

At some point I would like to get the original gauge working though........

[mr48chev]

That is the big problem. Stock temp capillary tubes have a hard time reaching the spots on a SBC where you would connect them.

There are adapter bushings that work to connect them that are available to get past the thread difference.

You would think that one of the truck trinket vendors would sell a stock style replacement gauge with an extended capillary tube and a bulb that was real easy to hook up to a V8 or other late engine as there is surly a market for them.

[Race.it]

They do, my gauge that I brought from classic industries has a longer tube thing, I had two options one for the i6, or v8 the only difference was the v8 tube was longer don't know by how much but I went for the longer one, will use on i6 to start with but when I get a v8 should just work

[Coach529]

http://www.classicindustries.com/pro...ts/cx1720.html

[Sssingo]

Thanks guys. I got the classic industries extended tube as mentioned by Coach and Race.it and it fits perfect.

BUT now I am have the same problem with the oil pressure sender (just above the oil filter). Ordered classic industries kit at the same time which gives me fitment at the gauge end but nothing to go into the block there.

I can't work out what thread this should be npt or not. Does anyone know of a kit that fits here.

Thanks in advance for more help. you guys are the greatest.

[Old Crow]

What year SBC? Most of them I've worked on had an 1/8" pipe thread hole in the top of the block next to the distributor for the oil pressure. I've seen the sender down by the filter, but usually on newer, fuel injected small blocks.

[Sssingo]

OLD Crow, sadly I dont have the year of the block as there isn't enough of the partial vin that I can read in order to clarify, hence all the guess work. The block defo has the hole near the filter and isn't fuel injected so any ideas gratefully received

[mr48chev]

Cool beans, that is something new since I was trying to do it several years ago. My education for today if I don't learn anything else new today.

[Apachemike]

1/8" almost positive. You can get extension tubes and 45 or 90 deg elbows at any auto parts store or Home Depot.

[OrrieG]

If its the engine in your photobucket file (hint) it looks like a regular 350 so the port next to the distributor is the one usually used, unless someone has already gotten the plug out of the one on the block. The one next to the dist. is ready the pressure right off of the main line from the pump. It is 1/8 pipe, I usually run 1/4" line with a expansion loop in it. Gives you more accurate reading, and in my climate 1/8" line sometimes take a while to warm up in winter to show any reading.

[Sssingo]

Originally Posted by OrrieG

If its the engine in your photobucket file (hint) it looks like a regular 350 so the port next to the distributor is the one usually used, unless someone has already gotten the plug out of the one on the block. The one next to the dist. is ready the pressure right off of the main line from the pump. It is 1/8 pipe, I usually run 1/4" line with a expansion loop in it. Gives you more accurate reading, and in my climate 1/8" line sometimes take a while to warm up in winter to show any reading.

Thanks OrrieG.

[Sssingo]

Originally Posted by mr48chev

Cool beans, that is something new since I was trying to do it several years ago. My education for today if I don't learn anything else new today.

How much of a dumb as am I??? It was this empty threaded hole (see Pic) that threw me off but yes it turns out that there is also a spare port behind the distributor as you all suggested

[Sssingo]

Thanks for steering me back on track. I should of asked weeks ago ;-)

[OrrieG]

Originally Posted by Sssingo

How much of a dumb as am I??? It was this empty threaded hole (see Pic) that threw me off but yes it turns out that there is also a spare port behind the distributor as you all suggested

Not dumb, just lack of knowledge. Dumb is the inability to learn or know when to ask questions. The big hole on the flat boss is for the clutch z-bar round bolt. The oil port is below in the recess, on my engine it is a hex head plug. I have never gotten one removed successfully, on the very used engines they are seized tight.

[Sssingo]

Originally Posted by OrrieG

Not dumb, just lack of knowledge. Dumb is the inability to learn or know when to ask questions. The big hole on the flat boss is for the clutch z-bar round bolt. The oil port is below in the recess, on my engine it is a hex head plug. I have never gotten one removed successfully, on the very used engines they are seized tight.

It has certainly been a learning curve pushing me out of the safety of just doing a straight resto and into tracking down and matching later parts etc.
I did try and undo that hex bolt but yep, solid as a rock.
Small but rewarding steps
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[1project2many]

The oil port is below in the recess, on my engine it is a hex head plug. I have never gotten one removed successfully, on the very used engines they are seized tight.

In my early years as a tech I learned an easy way to remove some very stuck steel pipe plugs from cast iron blocks and heads. It's netted me a fair amount of $$ and gratitude. Heat the plug (not the block) to red hot. Let it cool to room temp. Remove it. That's it. Almost always the plug comes out with little effort once it's cool but this fails for many people because they can't walk away long enough before attempting to back the plug out.

[OrrieG]

They showed that trick on "Cuban Chrome" the other night, except instead of waiting for it to cool down they douse it with cold water, said the thermal shock broke them loose, they were using in on seat frame bolts on a 58 Chevy.

[solidaxel]

Originally Posted by Sssingo

How much of a dumb as am I??? It was this empty threaded hole (see Pic) that threw me off but yes it turns out that there is also a spare port behind the distributor as you all suggested

Is there a casting number on the bell housing flange just in back of the drivers head?

[mr48chev]

It's called a learning curve. We sure don't learn everything at once and if we don't keep on learning every day we get stagnate.

It was 56 years ago when I saw my first HOT Rod magazine on the book mobile and checked it out and every one that the bookmobile had for the rest of the school year. That was my downfall into the realms of hot rodding and this truck addiction I have now. I didn't just look at the pictures I soaked up every engine building and chassis building article for years on end.

A story on myself and my first smallblock though. The first small block Chevy I ever had was the one I took out of a 61 Impala that I bought for 100.00 (4 door) and rebuilt and put in my T bucket. I couldn't get it to fire up and fought it for a couple of days after I got home from work. Then one night at 02:00 AM I woke up and realized that I had wired it counter clockwise like the 350 R Olds engine in my 69 Cutlass rather than clockwise as it should be. Out to the garage in my bathrobe, pull the wires out and put them in right and fire up the T with open megaphone headers most likely to the annoyance of the neighbors. That was a lesson learned.