Wilwood Master cylinder VS Power cylinder 72C10

[Han Solo]

New guy here with question...

Does anyone have experience using the Wilwood non-power master cylinder vs a stock or CPP power cylinder?

I will be installing a Wilwood kit (all fours w/ e-brake) on my truck. I have an OEM/stock power booster in place and was told by salesman selling kit the Wilwood master cylinder works amazing with Wilwood kit, better than the CPP power cylinder I was going to purchase. In my head I just assume power is the way to go especially since I have a 550hp LS/4L80 Automatic motor in place. This is my daily driver and most of my daily drive is on the street - light to light - not much hwy use on the weekdays, which leaves my foot sitting on the brake pedal quite a bit.

I didn't think anything about this as I thought it was just nothing more than a sales pitch but now it's got me thinking.

If anyone could give me personal feedback, I'd greatly appreciate it. Thanks.

[jocko]

You mean Wilwood said the Wilwood part is the better choice? No way!!
Ha. Just kidding, of course. Personally, if I were going to the expense of wildwood on all 4 corners, I'd go the whole way with the same company - IF they offered a booster for their mc. You mention manual mc from Wilwood vs power mc from CPP. Seems you'd want power, regardless of company. If Wilwood doesn't offer a power option, then I would go back with CPP, and make sure Wilwood tells you what specs you need to properly run your system - i.e. 1" vs 1.25" bore, line sizes (should be the same all the way around, and 3/16" or 1/4"??), etc etc. At a minimum, you'll need to ensure you get a disk/disk master cyl with prop valve for tuning. Sounds like a nice truck - good luck.

[Han Solo]

Thanks for the info.

For some reason Wilwood's kit is manual cylinder only, no power. I was told that the bore is specifically built for this kit and performs better than power.

[mgchevyparts]

There is no difference from one brand master to another if the BORE diameter is the same, well there shouldn't be a difference but I guess you could have potential quality differences, but the function is identicle if the bore size is the same. With that said, Wilwood likes to recommend very small bore masters for their brakes. The smaller the bore master the higher the pressure but that's accomplished at the expense of greater pedal travel then a larger bore master. As you go smaller on the master your pedal gets very close to the floor board, I'm not a fan of that. You can run any disc brakes with manual or power. With the smallish Wilwood piston size just don't go as large a master as you would with big piston GM calipers for power booster.
They probably recommended a 3/4" master for non power, just use a 1" bore with a booster and it will work fine. GM big calipers would use 1 1/8" master for power.
Just remember that smaller master is a softer pedal feel and travels farther, so if you install a 3/4" and don't like how far it travels and/or it's too soft, increase bore for less travel and firmer pedal feel. I prefer 1" bore for manual disc.

[Han Solo]

Thank you

[Carl Spangler]

Originally Posted by mgchevyparts

There is no difference from one brand master to another if the BORE diameter is the same, well there shouldn't be a difference but I guess you could have potential quality differences, but the function is identicle if the bore size is the same. With that said, Wilwood likes to recommend very small bore masters for their brakes. The smaller the bore master the higher the pressure but that's accomplished at the expense of greater pedal travel then a larger bore master. As you go smaller on the master your pedal gets very close to the floor board, I'm not a fan of that. You can run any disc brakes with manual or power. With the smallish Wilwood piston size just don't go as large a master as you would with big piston GM calipers for power booster.
They probably recommended a 3/4" master for non power, just use a 1" bore with a booster and it will work fine. GM big calipers would use 1 1/8" master for power.
Just remember that smaller master is a softer pedal feel and travels farther, so if you install a 3/4" and don't like how far it travels and/or it's too soft, increase bore for less travel and firmer pedal feel. I prefer 1" bore for manual disc.

Hope this is OK asking this question here:
What is the OEM master cylinder bore size? My 71 C10 is a non power assisted disk break car and the pedal stroke is VERY short and VERY 'stiff'. I wouldn't mind having more pedal stroke and lighter pedal feel.

thanks
JohnG

[mgchevyparts]

I'm not at work so I can't look up the OEM unit but it's very simple, remove your existing master and measure the bore, then use a master that is 1/16"-1/8" smaller for a softer pedal. Or install a power booster.

[lolife99]

I run a 1" bore M/C for manual brakes and a 1-1/8" bore M/C when I add a booster.
Wilwood M/C is an EXCELLENT product.

[LONGHAIR]

I would be leery of non-power with 4 wheel disc myself, never having tried it, since discs require more line pressure to produce good stopping power.
Discs are far more forgiving, fade resistant and there are no adjustment issues to deal with, but you lose the "self-energizing" effect of drums.

BUT.....if you are really making that kind of power, how much vacuum does it pull?
If you have to do a bunch of messing around with canisters or pumps to make enough vacuum to work the booster, the non boosted version may be worth it. That is IF it works like they say.
Plus it has to look good, worth a try.....

[FRENCHBLUE72]

I run the wilwood master on a disk drum combo on my truck and it feels better than my boosted setup on my blazer...

[SierraMtns]

Hey Han Solo, which master did you run?

[74baggedbug]

I have the 1-1/8 bore wilwood and trying to figure out what booster to run.. Anyone figure it out

[BossHogg69]

I used a Hydratech booster with my Wilwood master.

[Longhornss]

What diameter brake rotors are you using..... This is also a factor when considering boosted or non boosted brakes.
A 14" rotor will require less brake input than a 10.5" rotor.... Meaning the bigger the rotor the less need there is for a booster. Look at all the auto cross guys. In lots of cases they aren't running booster but have huge brakes.... I know this is a daily so the auto cross thing does not apply but the theory does.
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[74baggedbug]

Originally Posted by BossHogg69

I used a Hydratech booster with my Wilwood master.

Happen to have a link or part #?
Thanks

[BossHogg69]

http://www.hydratechbraking.com/GM_67-72_CK.html

[hwyix]

Originally Posted by Longhornss

What diameter brake rotors are you using..... This is also a factor when considering boosted or non boosted brakes.
A 14" rotor will require less brake input than a 10.5" rotor.... Meaning the bigger the rotor the less need there is for a booster. Look at all the auto cross guys. In lots of cases they aren't running booster but have huge brakes.... I know this is a daily so the auto cross thing does not apply but the theory does.
Posted via Mobile Device

Larger rotors help with heat sink and repeated stops. Say you have a road race car on a track with 13 corners or you have truck towing a horse trailer.

The size of the caliber bore size and how many pistons in the caliber. Some calibers only have one piston while other calibers have 4 plus pistons. This determines how much fluid you will be pushing and at what pressure to pedal stroke before it hits the floor etc...