Which grade oil should I use for my motor?

[Jurassic-1]

I run straight 30 in winter and 40 in summer. I just purchased the Zink additive and will be using it along with the new oil.

[65chevysub]

Originally Posted by Isaiah92260

How does the temps run on your truck during the summer? Isn't 20w/50 too thick? It present take long to circulate in the motor when starting up? I like the idea of thinker oil but I like the be more cautious and gather info before I do

Posted via Mobile Device

[65chevysub]

Originally Posted by Isaiah92260

How does the temps run on your truck during the summer? Isn't 20w/50 too thick? It present take long to circulate in the motor when starting up? I like the idea of thinker oil but I like the be more cautious and gather info before I do

My temp gauge gets to about half during the summer. The oil is going to thin out so I start with thicker oil. Drove it to Sedona today doing 70mph all the way and gauge stayed on a half. Oil pressure was about 50psi while driving.
Posted via Mobile Device

[65chevysub]

Originally Posted by 65chevysub

My temp gauge gets to about half during the summer. The oil is going to thin out so I start with thicker oil. Drove it to Sedona today doing 70mph all the way and gauge stayed on a half. Oil pressure was about 50psi while driving.
Posted via Mobile Device

Posted via Mobile Device

[65chevysub]

Originally Posted by 65chevysub

Posted via Mobile Device

As far as brand, I use Walmart Supertech. I found out that its Quaker State oil with their label.(nice to find these things out by working there lol)
Posted via Mobile Device

[Chris.Guerrero]

Originally Posted by Isaiah92260

Hello everyone, if you havnt seen my other two threads, I am fairly new to Classic Chevy's. My question I want to ask is, what grade of oil should I use for my high milage motor? I have a 1967 Straight 6 motor. My odometer says 36,000, and for a 63' C10, I'm gonna assume that means it's anywhere from 136,000-236,000 miles. The motor isn't obviously original to the car, so I can't really say how many miles there are on if, but I'm guessing it has anywhere from 90,00-135,000 miles on it already. I don't have the money to rebuild my motor, so I'm wondering what kind of oil should I use that will make it last longer and reduce wear, I live in Palm springs. So it gets 100+ out here during the summer. I only drive the truck 20 minuets a day to work and home, but I do plan on drivin it more on te weekends.

Hey Isaiah92260 – For older Chevy vehicles (30-40 years old), we recommend Shell Rotella T Triple Protection 10W-30 or 15W-40 motor oil. They’re both API service rated for gasoline engines (currently at the API SM level). In fact, they’re formulated with additional anti-wear agents as compared to today’s API SN/GF5 gasoline engine oils (approximately 1200 ppm of zinc in the Rotella versus 800 ppm of zinc in the API SN/GF5 engine oils). This extra added anti-wear is ideal for the flat tappet engine in your Chevy. Hope this info helps! – The Shell Rotella Team

[Isaiah92260]

Originally Posted by Chris.Guerrero

Hey Isaiah92260 – For older Chevy vehicles (30-40 years old), we recommend Shell Rotella T Triple Protection 10W-30 or 15W-40 motor oil. They’re both API service rated for gasoline engines (currently at the API SM level). In fact, they’re formulated with additional anti-wear agents as compared to today’s API SN/GF5 gasoline engine oils (approximately 1200 ppm of zinc in the Rotella versus 800 ppm of zinc in the API SN/GF5 engine oils). This extra added anti-wear is ideal for the flat tappet engine in your Chevy. Hope this info helps! – The Shell Rotella Team

Thank you so much! I was actually planning on buying the 10w/30 or 15w/40 since I live in the hot desert area, in the next couple weeks when I do my oil change! Thanks again for the info!

[T and S]

Originally Posted by vince1

Here's something interesting. Wish I knew how to put it on so you could just click on it.

https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/201...-test-ranking/

I actually read through this, very interesting. Lots of myths and internet junk floating around, but this article takes all of those and debunks a lot of those theories.

[MikeB]

The cam in that old six has very low lift and "slow" ramps. Combined with low pressure springs, there's no way you have to worry about flattening a lobe.

Sorry if I offend anyone, but I just don't get these ZDDP additives. You'd think we were talking about adding hotter salsa to a taco! Lubrication engineers and chemists spend a lot of time and money developing additive packages for their oils, and we're supposed to just dump in some ZDDP Plus and assume it blends well with any and all oils? Seriously?

If your flat tappet cam lobe design and valve spring pressure dictate higher levels of ZDDP, then use an oil that has what you need as part of the additive package, like Driven Hot Rod oil. It ain't cheap oil, but it's cheap insurance. http://www.drivenracingoil.com/news/...ge-protection/

Good advice above from Chris at Shell, IMO. At least for a OE flat tappet cam and valve springs.

[Monte's62]

Originally Posted by Isaiah92260

I just bought the STP injectors cleaner that the gore into the gas tank. I'm gonna use it next time I get gas. I wish I knew the history on my motor. I'm not sure if it has a lot of slide or not, but Id like to thing so because of how dirty the motor is and all the paint on the valve cover gasket has long need chipped off.

Isaiah, if you are talking about your inline 6 truck engine, you do not need to put injector cleaner in your tank. You are just wasting your money. If you can purchase 100% gas in your area, that would be a good idea.

[franken]

ZDDP was in oils 67-72 when these engines were built. Today, engines are different and they have roller lifters. Hence the oil specs have changed due to that and emissions regs.
That said, I've read that many additives added later wind up sitting at the bottom of the oil pan.

[picklito]

Chris,
It's good to hear directly from Shell on the Rotella. As you're probably aware, there's a pretty large internet rumor that even Rotella has been reduced in it's zinc content. Are you saying that it still currently has 1200ppm? Thanks.

[Mackie]

Originally Posted by picklito

Chris,
Are you saying that it still currently has 1200ppm? Thanks.

I'd like to have this confirmed also. I've been hearing for some time now that Rotella no longer contains ZDDP. Maybe it's versions other than "T Triple Protection.

As for Walmart oil being good because it's Quaker State keep in mind these box stores are famous for inspiring confidence with a name brand but the item is made for them and based on a set price point.

[Isaiah92260]

Thank you everyone for your replies, you all have very good statements. As of so far I am going to go with the 10w/30 Rotella and may also add a drop or two of ZDDP just in case if the rumor is true about Rotella Lol!!

[theastronaut]

Zinc/ZDDP is a "last ditch effort" type of lubricant. It really only comes into play after the oil film's strength has been exceeded. Too much ZDDP can be abrasive- that's why you find high levels of it in break-in oil, the engine breaks-in quickly that way. The best oil has a high film strength, and enough ZDDP as "back up" protection but not too much to be abrasive.

Oil thickness is determined by your bearing clearances. New/tight engines don't need thick oil. The bearings are cooled by oil FLOW through the bearings. Thick oil doesn't flow, especially through tight bearing clearances. Older/worn engines can use thicker oil since there is room for the oil to still flow. As for oil pressure, you only need 10 psi per 1000 rpm, so use thinner/thicker weight oil to adjust your oil pressure. Use as thin of oil as you can do you get the best flow and adequate pressure.

Good info on film strength here.
https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/201...-test-ranking/

[Isaiah92260]

Originally Posted by theastronaut

Zinc/ZDDP is a "last ditch effort" type of lubricant. It really only comes into play after the oil film's strength has been exceeded. Too much ZDDP can be abrasive- that's why you find high levels of it in break-in oil, the engine breaks-in quickly that way. The best oil has a high film strength, and enough ZDDP as "back up" protection but not too much to be abrasive.

Oil thickness is determined by your bearing clearances. New/tight engines don't need thick oil. The bearings are cooled by oil FLOW through the bearings. Thick oil doesn't flow, especially through tight bearing clearances. Older/worn engines can use thicker oil since there is room for the oil to still flow. As for oil pressure, you only need 10 psi per 1000 rpm, so use thinner/thicker weight oil to adjust your oil pressure. Use as thin of oil as you can do you get the best flow and adequate pressure.

Good info on film strength here.
https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/201...-test-ranking/

That is new info to me thank you so much! I've been meaning to ask what's te right PSI, my truck isles at 39 Psi at idle, I have my truck idling at 700 RPM's, and right now the truck has 5w/30.... Is that good?

[theastronaut]

I've been using Valvoline VR1 in my '64 VW. It has a fairly aggressive cam with fast ramps. Each cam lobe has two lifters per lobe, so there's twice as much wear and only half of the time for oil spray to build up on the lobe (splash lubricated). The engine was broken in using Brad Penn oil, then switched to VR1 at approximately 5,000 miles. I swapped the cam at 27,000 miles and the lifters and cam lobes looked great.

[theastronaut]

Originally Posted by Isaiah92260

That is new info to me thank you so much! I've been meaning to ask what's te right PSI, my truck isles at 39 Psi at idle, I have my truck idling at 700 RPM's, and right now the truck has 5w/30.... Is that good?

That 39 psi, is that hot or cold? It won't hurt anything if it's higher than 10 per 1000 rpm. VW guys try to size the oil pump so that they don't make excessive pressure. When you only have 40-50 hp to start with you don't want a big pump making excessive pressure, it takes power to turn the pum and more power to turn a bigger pump.

[Isaiah92260]

Originally Posted by theastronaut

That 39 psi, is that hot or cold? It won't hurt anything if it's higher than 10 per 1000 rpm. VW guys try to size the oil pump so that they don't make excessive pressure. When you only have 40-50 hp to start with you don't want a big pump making excessive pressure, it takes power to turn the pum and more power to turn a bigger pump.

today while driving i paid attention to it more, at idle warm/hot its at about 39.5,40 PSI - 40,41 PSI. I Havnt really seen the PSI go higher than 42 PSI while cruising under 50 mph on the streets.

[Chris.Guerrero]

Originally Posted by picklito

Chris,
It's good to hear directly from Shell on the Rotella. As you're probably aware, there's a pretty large internet rumor that even Rotella has been reduced in it's zinc content. Are you saying that it still currently has 1200ppm? Thanks.

Originally Posted by Mackie

I'd like to have this confirmed also. I've been hearing for some time now that Rotella no longer contains ZDDP. Maybe it's versions other than "T Triple Protection.

As for Walmart oil being good because it's Quaker State keep in mind these box stores are famous for inspiring confidence with a name brand but the item is made for them and based on a set price point.

To put the rumors to rest, we can confirm that Shell Rotella T Triple Protection, Shell Rotella T5 and Shell Rotella T6 all still contain a ZDDP anti-wear package. These products (in all viscosity grades) are currently in the 1,200 ppm of zinc range. Shell Rotella engine oils meet the API SM credential for gasoline engines, which is backwards compatible. This means that Shell Rotella engine oils might be considered for slightly modified performance engines with aftermarket aggressive camshafts and sliding followers. However, diesel engine oil formulations, like Shell Rotella, are different than engine oils for gasoline or alcohol-fueled performance engines which may require more or less zinc in their formulations. Hope this info helps! - The Shell Rotella Team