Anyone use Caswell "cold" black oxide kit? Results?

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Considering this for refinishing bolts and other small items. Have you used this and were the results good?

http://www.caswellplating.com/metal-...xide-kits.html

[vettedrvr]

Originally Posted by 71CHEVYSHORTBED402

Considering this for refinishing bolts and other small items. Have you used this and were the results good?

http://www.caswellplating.com/metal-...xide-kits.html

Works OK, but you can tell the difference between the finish from a hot and cold nitriding process. Cold process results are not going to score high if you are trying for a 100 point restoration at a judged show like the GTO Nationals or NCRS Bowling Green, but it's good enough to fool the local rubes.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

I'm also considering one of these: http://www.stainlesssteelcreations.net/

And also considering this. I believe this is a new product. A bit on the expensive side: http://www.cjponyparts.com/eastwood-...1vYaAtMN8P8HAQ

[vettedrvr]

Originally Posted by 71CHEVYSHORTBED402

I'm also considering one of these: http://www.stainlesssteelcreations.net/

And also considering this. I believe this is a new product. A bit on the expensive side: http://www.cjponyparts.com/eastwood-...1vYaAtMN8P8HAQ

The Caswell is likely better than the Eastwood. Be careful with the 'hot' chemicals, though. The liquids and their vapors can be quite poisonous.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Originally Posted by vettedrvr

The Caswell is likely better than the Eastwood. Be careful with the 'hot' chemicals, though. The liquids and their vapors can be quite poisonous.

Thanks. I read where parkerizing bolts is a bad idea. That said, the guy blew it all the way around and may have been misinformed.

[DeadheadNM]

Ive had several parts reparkerized and the cost has been reasonable and with excellent results. If you have a local plating shop it might be worth inquiring as to their minimum batch cost, which should do a fair amount of parts.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Originally Posted by DeadheadNM

Ive had several parts reparkerized and the cost has been reasonable and with excellent results. If you have a local plating shop it might be worth inquiring as to their minimum batch cost, which should do a fair amount of parts.

I was wondering about that. I'll try to dial that in come Monday. Thanks.

Edit: Ha, there's a place a mile from me. They do exactly that.

[midniteblues]

I have used 2 eastwood kits it worked well for some small clips,nuts and bolts but anything bigger than that i didnt have good luck with it.
what they sell you as the "kit" is pretty much a joke.
just buy the "solution" and not the kit.

and if you have anything bigger than nuts an bolts better get 2-3 of the bottles.

when i'm ready i'm gonna try caswells product this time they have better reviews.

[LockDoc]

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The thing I found with the Caswell product is that the parts have to be absolutely clean. If there is any rust on them at all it won't work....

LockDoc

[vettedrvr]

Originally Posted by LockDoc

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The thing I found with the Caswell product is that the parts have to be absolutely clean. If there is any rust on them at all it won't work....

LockDoc

Immerse them in muriatic acid for 20 minutes. No rust, no problem!

[RodnRudy]

X2 on the muratic acid. I buy pool acid from Lowes. It derusts small parts very well. Just be sure to use the solution in a WELL vented area and wear rubber gloves as it can easily burn your skin.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

A lot of people use it, but muratic acid is not recommended for metal, because it can damage it. I've found white vinegar does a GREAT job of removing rust. You just need to wire brush afterwards.

[Taibo]

Originally Posted by 71CHEVYSHORTBED402

A lot of people use it, but muratic acid is not recommended for metal, because it can damage it. I've found white vinegar does a GREAT job of removing rust. You just need to wire brush afterwards.

Muriatic (HCL) acid is completely unreactive with Iron or Iron alloys such as steel and 4130. It is only reactive with Rust (FEO), and as such, cannot hurt clean steel.

OBTW, the reactive part of white vinegar is HCL otherwise known as MURIATIC ACID and that, sir, is the same acid that is in your stomach!

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Originally Posted by Taibo

Muriatic (HCL) acid is completely unreactive with Iron or Iron alloys such as steel and 4130. It is only reactive with Rust (FEO), and as such, cannot hurt clean steel.

OBTW, the reactive part of white vinegar is HCL otherwise known as MURIATIC ACID and that, sir, is the same acid that is in your stomach!

Oh.............Ha!