Clutch adjustment

[Vortech]

Need some help adjusting my clutch. Currently, I have about 2-1/2 inches of play at the top before clutch begins to be engaged. I have read it should be closer to 1-1/2 inches of play. Question I have is do I need to lengthen the adjustment rod, or shorten it. There are two hex nuts on either side of linkage swivel. Which way do I go. Swivel is held on to linkage with cotter pin. Note, I have some grinding on 1st gear only when I am at a full stop. Hoping this slack is the issue.

[Boedean1981]

http://www.howacarworks.com/transmis...ing-the-clutch

[geezer#99]

Lengthen it.
Adjust the rod so you have about 1/4 inch movement in the fork. If you move the end of the fork towards the back of the truck it will stop when the other end inside the bellhousing contacts the clutch fingers with the throw out bearing. Pull the fork towards the front about 1/4 inch. Make your rod fit and locknut it in place.
Don't worry about the measurement of the pedal inside the truck.
A correctly adjusted clutch will help with grinding.

[padresag]

The problem with these trucks is that they are 50 and plus years old and unless your linkage has all been rebuilt there is a lot of wear. the wear is all in the rod ends and the holes that they correspond with and the bushings in the clutch pedal cross shaft. the old general rule of thumb for vehicles of this vintage and earlier with mech linage is about 3/4" free play at the top of the pedal.
as long as the throw out bearing just clears the finger or prongs of the pressure plate is what matters. lengthening the rod does tighten it up.
grease the Z-bar while you are there.
ron

[Vortech]

Thanks for the quick response. Lengthened it, pulled 1" of slack after adjusting to 1/4 inch off the back as suggested. Note, clutch now engages about 1/2 way back up. Is that correct or is that a sign that my clutch plate is worn. Note, I've only had this truck two years and do not know when clutch was last replaced.

[geezer#99]

If it works good like that, enjoy!!
Did you hook up the long return spring from the fork to the frame?

[spookylynx]

Originally Posted by geezer#99

If it works good like that, enjoy!!
Did you hook up the long return spring from the fork to the frame?

Do you or anyone have a picture of that return spring? I cannot remember where or how it connects. Haven't found a good diagram of it either.

[par4tom]

Here you go...this is on a 61. Spring is hooked to clutch fork and then a designated hole on the frame rail (Just behind the red wire in the pic)

BTW...I ended up removing the slave cylinder spacer bracket off of the bell (it is still in the picture) housing, and bolted the slave cylinder directly up to the bell without the spacer.

I then moved the push rod into the hole on the fork closer to the bell to get more leverage (It is now in the vacant hole shown on the picture).

It made a really nice improvement on how far I had to push the pedal in to get the throw out bearing to move and then fully engage. Perhaps about an 1/2" on both sides of the pedal throw...(translated - I may have needed about 5 inches of pedal throw to get the throw out bearing moving and to the end of its stroker...after I may have needed only about 4" of pedal throw...)

Tom

[spookylynx]

Thanks for the pic, but I'm running the mechanical linkage on the drivers side.

anyone have a picture of that with a return spring? Or can I just hook up the spring wherever I can?

[par4tom]

Sorry spooky...I saw the picture in the thread above mentioning "Hydraulic" and I thought that was what you were looking for...

Have never worked on the other type of clutch...

[spookylynx]

all good, I'm sure someone has some info.

[Lugnutz65]

Originally Posted by spookylynx

all good, I'm sure someone has some info.

Taaah Daaaaaah!!! 1965 C10 clutch fork return spring with a factory clutch linkage.

[spookylynx]

PERFECT!!! Thank you very much, that is what I needed to see.

[rudyyloverboiii]

Aaaaaahhhhhh I've been looking for that myself!!! Thanks.