Too much free play in clutch

[dzwestwindsor]

Hello, I got a 1971 C20 with a 350 and SM465. After replacing the cab mounts, I guess the cab shifted slightly and now the clutch pedal has a ton of free play. When pressing down on the clutch, I'd say a good 4 inches of clutch travel does nothing to disengage the clutch. When releasing the clutch pedal, the pedal actually gets stuck at the end of the free play location. I need to kick it up with my foot for it to come all the way back up.

I tried backing the clutch linkage pushrod out to make it "longer", but it was already backed out all the way with no more thread left. So how do I get rid of this free play, and consequently, prevent getting the pedal stuck when coming up?

Thanks

[Jurassic-1]

There should be a wedge shaped spacer on the end of the adjuster rod. It may have been misplaced at some time but will limit the adjustment.

[LockDoc]

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Part #3 is what "jurassic" is referring to.

LockDoc

[dzwestwindsor]

Thanks for the replies. I'm having trouble understanding how that spacer would affect the play?
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[BLT gmc]

You may have to remove the dust cover/inspection cover on the bottom side of the bell housing to confirm all is well inside the bell housing. If all is well the linkage is either non-oem or badly out of adjustment. Pictures here may yield you more advise. Good luck Bruce
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[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by dzwestwindsor

Thanks for the replies. I'm having trouble understanding how that spacer would affect the play?
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The "Spacer" creates a pivot for the clutch arm and will add approx 3/4" to the length of the rod. You need to have it installed before the clutch will operate or adjust correctly....

LockDoc

[dzwestwindsor]

Thank you, I think I'm understanding now. I found this picture in a different thread : Link
Just focusing on the linkage portion and "spacer" piece in that picture - is that where the spacer is supposed to go?
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[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by dzwestwindsor

Thank you, I think I'm understanding now. I found this picture in a different thread : Link
Just focusing on the linkage portion and "spacer" piece in that picture - is that where the spacer is supposed to go?
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Basically yes, the outer position will give you more leverage and make the clutch easier to push. Either position will work.

LockDoc

[dzwestwindsor]

Thanks. I checked and the spacer piece is in fact there. Everything about the linkage seems right, so I can't figure out why i need to push the pedal down almost 4 inches before the clutch becomes disengaged.

Could it be a sign of a worn out clutch disc? I always thought that if the clutch is worn it takes a longer distance to engage, and not to disengage, but I could be wrong. Any thoughts?
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[hamjet]

how about the cab mounts. are they original height or taller for more lift. Did you tighten them down to compress them the right amount? If thats all you did it has to be in the installation of the mounts. something has to be different from before the change..GOT PICS??

[clemsonteg]

I replaced my cab mounts a few years ago and experienced a similar issue. My old mounts were shot and the new mounts definitely required me to reposition the clutch rod. My guess is that over the years that the overall clutch rod length was shortened using item #1 in LockDoc's photo along with the locknuts on either side. In my situation with new cab mounts I had to "lengthen" the rod which reduced the amount of free play the clutch had. I adjusted it until I could move the clutch pedal 1" before feeling the throw out bearing contact the pressure plate.