350 motor numbers, I have questions

[Steven R]

I have a 350 motor in my 71 GMC 3/4 ton longhorn, It says Invader 350 on the driver side valve cover and on the Passenger side just in front of the valve cover it has a stamped K06 11 TBC I am hoping it will be a 1971 350 motor.

This is a canadian built truck and sold in Canada which from what I can figure matches up to a Canadian built 350. I could be wrong.

I cant get any more numbers right now. I cant see any and this is a very dirty engine.

I need to figure this out soon as I am planning on getting a heat shield and plug wire keeper set soon. The new plug wire set the shop put on are too short and the parts store want me to buy a 300$ set of wire and he can't tell me that they will be the right ones. only that they will have a straight boot not a 90 deg boot.

pls help

[bruceman1968]

K0611TBC
K= McKinnon Industries Ontario
06= June
11= 11th day of June
TBC=
1970 Truck, 350cid, 255hp, manual, 4bbl, OR
1971 Truck, 350cid, 255hp, th350, 4bbl, OR
1979 Truck, 350cid, 165hp, th350, 4bbl.
Need to get the date code off the block to confirm the year.

[Steven R]

Thanks alot, I found that pic earlier which helped me find that number but still can't find the other yet. I wish there was a pic like that from the back side showing it more clearly as I am a visual understanding person better then reading and then figuring out.

thanks again.

[Baddflash]

[geezer#99]

If you put your plug wires down the back of the heads and under the manifolds and up to the plugs with angle boots, you don't need any shields.
And it looks nicer too!
Just like the Corvettes did.
You can get a universal set from Summit. Likely delivered to your door for 100 canuck bucks.
http://www.summitracing.com/int/part...0051/overview/

[FirstOwner69]

The picture Baddflash posted is the casting number which is located on the driver side just in front of the transmission. The casting date is on the passenger side of the block between the right head and transmission as shown in the picture below.

Regarding plug wires... if you have an HEI distributor, late 70s Corvette wires should fit like the factory wires. If you still have a points distributor, an auto parts store should be able to hook you up unless they don't have listings that far back. If not, the early 70s (pre-HEI) Corvette wires MAY work. That's just a guess since I don't have any first hand knowledge.

[Steven R]

That may the problem I am having. This motor has been updated from points. Is the only option points or HEI.

I forgot to ask the shop whether it had hei or a different type. But I know its not points any more.

Just as I though I know enough to get by with these truck I find I still have tons more to learn just to get by. I am sure there are lot of you guys who keep seeing these questions and think what a basic question. I never did take shop class in school, I just might have to if this keeps up. LOL

Thanks for the detail locate of the numbers, when the wife gets back I cant wait to try and find confirm things.

[geezer#99]

THe link I gave you is for 8mm wires. You need 8mm for your hei.
And yes hei and points were a couple options. There are others but you've got an hei.
Check the power wire feeding the hei. It plugs into the cap on the drivers side. If that wire has a cloth cover on it back to the firewall, then you need to replace it. Your hei needs 12 volts to run. THe stock wire for the points is a resistance wire and doesn't supply enough voltage.
Some people will put in an hei and not change that wire.
Check it.
If in doubt take a pic of it for us.

[Bigdav160]

HEI wasn't standard until 1975(?). It is a popular option as it's cheap and reliable.

There are also aftermarket electronic conversions for the point style distributor.

[Steven R]

Ok i found the block casting number at the back under a 1/2 inch of grime. It reads 3970010 and also K 7 but no GM on the block to be found yet. same number as in the other pic ??? I am guessing that this is a original block to the truck or at least period correct?

geezer#99 you asked about some power wire I cant find what you are talking about so I added some pic to help explain maybe to me what I am looking at. WOuld this happen to be a HEI or just a diff brand of a upgrade from points.
the one wire that come off the bottom driver side splices into "Y" one wire that goes under the exhaust horns and to a plug on the block, I don't know what that is. And the rest of the wire goes down to the starter trans area Not the fire wall.

Its the orange wire with a blue coupler to a yellow wire and the one off the side of the motor is green, wire lomeX heat shield stuff over it.

[geezer#99]

That big red wire coming off the cap is spliced to that small wire which is likely the old resistance wire and the yellow wire to the starter solenoid.
You need to simply replace that red wire from the cap to an unfused spade on your fuse box inside the cab. Then you'll have a full 12 volts to run your hei. Use the same gauge of wire as that big red wire. Likely it's 12 gauge.
The unfused spade is a key on 12 volt supply. No power till you turn the key to the run position.
Follow the yellow wire that's spliced to the small wire and remove it at the starter solenoid. THen follow the two of them back thru the loom to the firewall connection.
You can cut the wire close there and tape the end.
Or Some guys run the new 12 gauge wire up to the junction box and hook it into where that old wire plugs in. Likely beyond your know how. Not an easy job for a newbie.
That'll make it run better.

[Steven R]

Your awsome thanks, That sound simple enough to fix, now that I know what I'm looking at.

[slikside]

sub'd.