Need front brake line tee fitting

[bretcopsey]

In replacing the front lines on the 68 C10, I managed to cross thread the tee fitting at the cross member. It is 3/8-24 on the lines out to the wheel cylinders, and 7/16-24 on the line in from the master cylinder. I am having trouble finding this part and it's holding me up. Does anyone have a part number or source? Two different NAPA stores weren't able to help, they could only find one with all three ports being the same size.

[seafoam68]

Could you not use the 3/8 tee with an adapter on one side? I don't know, just a suggestion.

[Xeen]

O'reilly's carries a street and strip Tee and also a couple of other Tee's on their parts trees out on the floor that may work for you.
You can walk around and look or ask a sales associate.

[cdowns]

I have found a lot of weird stuff like that for the brake system at ace hardeware of all places

[bretcopsey]

Struck out at O'Reilly's too. The one NAPA had with all three ports the same size was 7/16" and they didn't have the necessary reducers to make it work. I'll try ACE in the morning. Worst case, I did find one on Jeg's website but I'm hoping to get this sorted out by tomorrow. Thanks for the ideas.

[hamjet]

Heres where I had to get mine for the 3x2 bbl set up. I couldn't find any one local with inverted flare Ts in the area...http://www.ebay.com/itm/GAR-W7024-1-...item4d15da5c68

[airdale94]

https://www.fastfittings.com/

Expensive but they have lots.

[aod92]

I also found one at my oreilys. It was on one of the spinning racks with misc. fittings and hardware

[bollybib]

I've had good luck finding parts like that with these guys.

http://www.allensfasteners.com/

[bretcopsey]

I wanted to circle back to close this out for anyone that may end up in the same boat. I bought a fitting from Jegs that was listed as 67-69 Camaro rear tee. I've got everything buttoned back up and bled using a homemade pressure bleeder. The pedal now seems firm, but I'm now fighting an ignition upgrade to be able to test drive it. Thanks again for all of the feedback.

[clemsonteg]

Originally Posted by bretcopsey

I wanted to circle back to close this out for anyone that may end up in the same boat. I bought a fitting from Jegs that was listed as 67-69 Camaro rear tee. I've got everything buttoned back up and bled using a homemade pressure bleeder. The pedal now seems firm, but I'm now fighting an ignition upgrade to be able to test drive it. Thanks again for all of the feedback.

More info on the homemade bleeder?

[bretcopsey]

Originally Posted by clemsonteg

More info on the homemade bleeder?

I can put up some pictures and specifics tonight when I'm home, but I used a garden sprayer from ACE hardware store. There are videos on YouTube and I made a couple modifications to what I was seeing.

[flipper58]

Continuing this slight hijack on the bleeder/bleeding issue, I just did gravity bleeding on my project truck. I had just installed new disc brakes, new lines and hoses all around. My brother suggested it and it worked incredibly well. I never believed it would as I have used pressure bleeders and "fancy" speed bleeder screws in the past. Like any other bleed, start with the right rear and work your way closer to the master. What I couldn't believe was the constant trickle from the bleeder screws into my catch bottle. In a quiet garage you could hear it. Just keep the master uncovered during the process and keep it filled so no air is sucked into the lines. Took about 25 minutes.

[bretcopsey]

Originally Posted by clemsonteg

More info on the homemade bleeder?

As promised, here's how I built my bleeder. I picked up a half gallon garden sprayer at Ace Hardware, along with a 3/8" hose barb with 1/8" NPT threads, 10' of 3/8" ID clear hose and 2' of 1/4" clear hose. I also picked up a steel threaded valve stem at the part store, along with some rubberized gasket material and two small hose clamps. The last two items I already had on hand, 1/4" steel plate and a small jar to catch fluid in.

You need to cut the steel plate to fit just over the master cylinder, and drill and tap the hole for the 1/8" NPT thread. Thread the hose barb into the steel plate.

I then drilled a hole into the side of the sprayer canister, just large enough to fit the valve stem. I then threaded a piece of string through the hole and used the string to pull the valve stem through. Secure in place with the nut that came with it.

The next step is where I made a change to what I was seeing online. I modified the sprayer wand to retain the trigger mechanism to be able to moderate the pressure sent to the master cylinder. Connect the 10' hose to the end of the wand and the hose barb on your steel plate.

Cut some gasket material to fit to the bottom of the steel plate cover for the master leaving an opening for the hose barb. I did not glue the material down so that I can more easily replace it as it soaks in brake fluid.

Use the 2' hose to attach to your bleeder screws with the other end in a catch can.

The main difference in the way I used my bleeder is that I did not run brake fluid through it. Rather, I only used air pressure to force the fluid in the master cylinder through the system. This requires periodic checks on the fluid level, but is worth it to me in reduced mess and not having an over filled master cylnder. Let me know if there's any questions or need for any more pictures.

The bar clamp on the right of the picture is something I got when cleaning out my dad's garage. It was origianlly about 6' long and I cut it down for this because I was having trouble with c-clamps hitting the hood. The valve stem was added so that I could bleed off air pressure before removing the steel plate from the master cylinder to check fluid level.

[dirtyjim]

I built a similar pressure bleeder a few years ago, worked very well