Anybody running a hydraulic clutch?

[cstm68]

I picked up a 6.0L for my 68 and would like to keep my 4 speed, has anyone converted to a hydraulic clutch? I don't think I will be able to keep my factory linkage with the 6.0. Is there a kit out there or any recommendations on how to convert it?
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[CARR33]

i just posted the same basic question in another section, no replies yet. hotrod hydraulics.com has a complete kit but it's pricey, and their website left me with some questions. one kit is complete and is 579+70.00 for our trucks. their next kit has everything but the throw out bearing and shims and is 379 with no extra charge. i cant figure where the $70.00 comes in. i am going to call them tomorrow. i will let you know what i find out

[cstm68]

Originally Posted by CARR33

i just posted the same basic question in another section, no replies yet. hotrod hydraulics.com has a complete kit but it's pricey, and their website left me with some questions. one kit is complete and is 579+70.00 for our trucks. their next kit has everything but the throw out bearing and shims and is 379 with no extra charge. i cant figure where the $70.00 comes in. i am going to call them tomorrow. i will let you know what i find out

I was thinking about running somthing like in this picture. Keeping the factory throw out and fork. Just need to figure out how to do the clutch master cylinder with te factory clutch petal
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[CARR33]

thats exactly what i am looking for, any idea where i can get a set up like that

[Taibo]

Originally Posted by CARR33

thats exactly what i am looking for, any idea where i can get a set up like that

$209.00 available from

http://www.novak-adapt.com

Pedal assembly is a Wilwood 340-1470

[SierraMtns]

Originally Posted by Taibo

$209.00 available from

http://www.novak-adapt.com

Pedal assembly is a Wilwood 340-1470

Cool Wilwood pedal. I wounder how it would mount in the truck.

[cooperhw]

I used a hydraulic system off a 2002 GTO when I put a 6 speed behind my LS motor in my 67 Chevelle.

[whitels1]

I'm using an SM465 from a 74, with the original bell housing, stock clutch, Sachs NFW1050 flywheel, LS7 pilot bearing with a Howe Hydraulic throw out bearing, Tilton 7/8 master cylinder attached to the original pedal assy, been working good for years.

[Taibo]

Originally Posted by SierraMtns

Cool Wilwood pedal. I wounder how it would mount in the truck.

Remove the master cylinder from the pedal assy, drill a 1.25 in hole for the master and four bolt 3/8 in holes for the mounting bolts. Bolt the pedal to the firewall from the inside, replace the master cylinder, plumb it and you're done.

[SierraMtns]

Originally Posted by Taibo

$209.00 available from

http://www.novak-adapt.com

Pedal assembly is a Wilwood 340-1470

Originally Posted by Taibo

Remove the master cylinder from the pedal assy, drill a 1.25 in hole for the master and four bolt 3/8 in holes for the mounting bolts. Bolt the pedal to the firewall from the inside, replace the master cylinder, plumb it and you're done.

I know how a clutch mounts to a firewall. I was wondering how it would mount in our trucks and how it would look. It would look really stupid if the Wilwood pedal was low close to the firewall and all the other pedals where in stock location. Also if you don't re-enforce the firewall you will have problems. Do you have any pictures of this set-up in our trucks?

[Taibo]

Originally Posted by SierraMtns

I know how a clutch mounts to a firewall. I was wondering how it would mount in our trucks and how it would look. It would look really stupid if the Wilwood pedal was low close to the firewall and all the other pedals where in stock location. Also if you don't re-enforce the firewall you will have problems. Do you have any pictures of this set-up in our trucks?

No, I have no pictures of that pedal in a C10. I am an SCCA racer and I usually have to make make all of the bracketry I need to install stuff like this. There aren't any parts stores that cater to that small a market so you either make what you need or you stay off the track. The Wilwood pedal is not meant to be supported by the firewall alone. You are expected to fashion a bracket that supports the TOP of the pedal assembly. That bracket includes a support and attachment for the clutch return spring and the clutch "disengaged' sensor for the engine computer if you are running one. A typical bracket for the front mount pedal I posted is shown in the drawing below. Pedal length and pedal angle are adjusted by cutting and either adding or taking out a section of the pedal arm and re-welding to get the correct fit. It's a cut and fit process but usually works well if you are patient, use cardboard templates for the pedal arm and the mounting bracket.
Or, as a alternative, pull the brake and clutch pedal quadrant out of a wrecked truck compatible with yours and mount the clutch master to that.

[67chevemall]

Subscribed.

Would be a sweet upgrade. Now a button on the shifter handle would be cool.
My clutch is a work out to say the least.

[Aruba1]

I am running a 1997 NV4500 with internal slave cylinder and a OEM clutch MC. I choose to use the used slave cylinder and it started leaking. Three hours later I installed a new internal slave cylinder from NAPA and it started leaking immediately. Today the engine is coming out to put a GM slave cylinder. If you go with the internal slave, make sure to go OEM and not those cheap China S!@t. The motor is a 2000/2001 5.3L with a GTO intake.