Help with My Incomplete A/C System Please!

[Mapearso]

So I have an A/C truck. All of the interior parts are there-- control unit, ducts and vents

BUT...

Under the hood is missing some stuff... and I'm not sure what. I know for sure I need a new compressor and the bracket 'cause that ain't there. But I have no clue what else is missing...

I have posted pics. If someone could please be so kind as to list everything I need I would really appreciate it. By the way the motor is a 454.

Thank you

[Bigdav160]

Do you have the condenser, drier and pipes in front of the radiator?

You look to be missing the compressor, brackets and hose assembly

[Davidf]

It appears that you are missing compressor and related brackets, hoses, and I don't see the pipes from/to condenser/dryer sticking out from under the batter tray. Most of the parts are available from Classic Parts who get them from Old Air Products or Vintage Air.

[WIDESIDE72]

Due to the fact that the photo shows the alternator on the passenger side, i would assume that an engine swap was performed, since originally the alternator was on the driver side on 67-72 trucks. Not a big deal, you just need to be sure you get the parts to fit your engine. No point in buying original set of brackets for a 67-72, only to have them not fit.

[WIDESIDE72]

I have a 79 malibu that i am swapping a 73 454 out of a c20 into. The ac compressor and brackets were missing. Instead of the big heavy stock a6 comressor, i am considering this:

http://m.ebay.com/itm/360525928843?nav=SEARCH

I just contacted them for there advice on hoses, as the end at the compressor is different.

[Mapearso]

Originally Posted by WIDESIDE72

Due to the fact that the photo shows the alternator on the passenger side, i would assume that an engine swap was performed, since originally the alternator was on the driver side on 67-72 trucks. Not a big deal, you just need to be sure you get the parts to fit your engine. No point in buying original set of brackets for a 67-72, only to have them not fit.

thanks.

yes, per above it has a 454 transplant

[Mapearso]

Should I be grabbing this stuff off a parts truck?????? It's a '71 with A/C, no compressor but some other stock bits (I believe)

[fat dan]

Should be a manual or vacuum water shut off valve between engine and heater.

[Mapearso]

Understood. But I'm asking if these A/C parts in the would be worth pulling off a local parts truck??? I'm missing them so I think I should??

[fat dan]

To add. I would get all of the connectors, tubing, mounting brackets, and fittings. If hose is in good shape you can flush them out as long as it doesn't have a muffler assembly. If it has a muffler then you need to get a new one. They have flushes for the evaporator. I would use a new condenser, receiver drier, and expansion valve. Some people on here have had luck using old parts and some have not.

[fat dan]

If you don't have the tubing that's under the battery tray be sure to get that.

[Mapearso]

Got a compressor and related hoses at the yard. Here's what I have now --

[Mapearso]

and under the hood still looks like this

So I know I need brackets.

What else??

tHANKS!!!

[F.A.A.benny]

You should restore that ac box. Or at least check to make sure there isn't any rodent crap, insects, or a bunch of leaves.

[jjzepplin]

Originally Posted by fat dan

To add. I would get all of the connectors, tubing, mounting brackets, and fittings. If hose is in good shape you can flush them out as long as it doesn't have a muffler assembly. If it has a muffler then you need to get a new one. They have flushes for the evaporator. I would use a new condenser, receiver drier, and expansion valve. Some people on here have had luck using old parts and some have not.

Why no muffler? What does it look like?

[Davidf]

If it was me, I would do the following:
1. Salvage the condenser, hard pipes, and receiver/drier mounting clamps from the donor.
2. Purchase new hose assemblies.
3. Forget about any salvaged A6 compressor...it will probably be worn out and rebuilding it will probably just end in a leaky front seal. Instead, purchase a new Pro6Ten compressor...a direct bolt in replacement and lighter. Get the compressor mounting brackets from the donor.
4. Get alternator brackets to move alternator to other side of engine. Or, get compressor brackets for left side mounting and have custom a/c hoses made. Many GM cars/trucks had a/c compressor mounted on left side of engine.
5. New receiver/drier.
6. New expansion valve
7. Check POA valve and (check) calibrate for R12 at 29.5 psi.
8. New heater water valve...normally open (i.e. vacuum closes valve).
9. Remove evaporator and have a/c shop pressure check with nitrogen. Pressure check the condenser as well. Have them reverse flush both. Ensure POA does not have trash in it from being left open.

Hope this helps. Also, the above assumes you are staying with R12. If you convert to R134a, you will need larger condenser, calibrate POA to 26 psi (I think that is correct, look it up) and then definitely replace the compressor as the higher head pressure will surely cause the front seal to leak on an old A6 compressor even with new seal. But, in LA with the mild summer temperatures, you might get away with using R134a with the original condenser meant for R12. Good luck.

[ERASER5]

Originally Posted by Davidf

If it was me, I would do the following:
1. Salvage the condenser, hard pipes, and receiver/drier mounting clamps from the donor.
2. Purchase new hose assemblies.
3. Forget about any salvaged A6 compressor...it will probably be worn out and rebuilding it will probably just end in a leaky front seal. Instead, purchase a new Pro6Ten compressor...a direct bolt in replacement and lighter. Get the compressor mounting brackets from the donor.
4. Get alternator brackets to move alternator to other side of engine. Or, get compressor brackets for left side mounting and have custom a/c hoses made. Many GM cars/trucks had a/c compressor mounted on left side of engine.
5. New receiver/drier.
6. New expansion valve
7. Check POA valve and (check) calibrate for R12 at 29.5 psi.
8. New heater water valve...normally open (i.e. vacuum closes valve).
9. Remove evaporator and have a/c shop pressure check with nitrogen. Pressure check the condenser as well. Have them reverse flush both. Ensure POA does not have trash in it from being left open.

Hope this helps. Also, the above assumes you are staying with R12. If you convert to R134a, you will need larger condenser, calibrate POA to 26 psi (I think that is correct, look it up) and then definitely replace the compressor as the higher head pressure will surely cause the front seal to leak on an old A6 compressor even with new seal. But, in LA with the mild summer temperatures, you might get away with using R134a with the original condenser meant for R12. Good luck.

I agree with most of this right up to the POA valve. I say get rid of it. Old Air Product has an elimination kit. Unless you plan on smuggling R12 in from Mexico, set this up for R134A. 26 psi cutoff is OK, I went to 20 psi, but on some nights I would freeze over my evap.

Reusing parts that cannot be flushed is asking for trouble. Things like compressors, receiver/dryer, expansion devices should be replaced.

[Davidf]

Oh no no no, do NOT use the POA elimination tube. I tried it and it was the worst decision I made and caused me to waste an entire system charge of R12. The POA elimination tube cause the compressor to cycle excessively and you definitely notice the reduction in air temp each time the compressor cycles off. Having the compressor continuously cycle on and off is VERY irritating. Also, if still using an A6 compressor, you will wear out the clutch prematurely...they were not designed to cycle on and off as much as the POA elimination tube causes.

[Mapearso]

Originally Posted by Davidf

If it was me, I would do the following:
1. Salvage the condenser, hard pipes, and receiver/drier mounting clamps from the donor.
2. Purchase new hose assemblies.
3. purchase a new Pro6Ten compressor...a direct bolt in replacement and lighter.
4. Get alternator brackets to move alternator to other side of engine.
5. New receiver/drier.
6. New expansion valve
7. Check POA valve
8. New heater water valve...normally open (i.e. vacuum closes valve).
9. Remove evaporator and have a/c shop pressure check with nitrogen. Pressure check the condenser as well. Have them reverse flush both. Ensure POA does not have trash in it from being left open.

Hope this helps. Good luck.

Thanks. Yes -- This is super-helpful

Based your advice above, I am looking at buying a bunch of new stuff.

This makes me wonder whether I am better off, financially, just buying a Vintage Air kit or something similar?

I REALLY would like to keep the truck stock and buy stock replacement items, but this is not a price is no object build, and I wonder if the cost of these parts individually will cost me as much as a kit that might work better?

Thanks again for the advice!

[Davidf]

I was in the same boat as you and elected to rebuild the factory system. The factory system has air blending, outside or recirc air. The aftermarket systems do not. Nothing against the aftermarket systems as I used one in my 1952 1/2 ton build, but they are just not as integrated as the factory system. Also, I think in the end the money spent will be about the same. And, what to do with all the factory A/C stuff that is abandoned...I think it will look like a cobbled together mess. With all that said, maybe Old Air Products or Vintage Air has an under hood kit that integrates with factory evaporator. But, if it includes the POA eliminator tube, stay clear or you wont be happy.

[ERASER5]

I mentioned Old Air as a possibility. I prefer a standard expansion valve. The H-block type are OK but a retro fit to an H-block is not for the non-refrigerant tech types. Too many special fitted parts.

[leddzepp]

Whatever route you choose, do not use an a6 compressor as it WILL leak eventually.

[F.A.A.benny]

Originally Posted by jjzepplin

Why no muffler? What does it look like?

He has to be referring to the muffler/manifold that bolts on to the compressor. But I don't believe there is any baffling in that particular muffler so it could be just flushed very well. I would be more concerned with the hoses as they have pretty good bends on them and being factory original, they may be brittle/dry rotted. They could leak with 134a, being that they aren't barrier hose.

[WIDESIDE72]

4. Get alternator brackets to move alternator to other side of engine. Or, get compressor brackets for left side mounting and have custom a/c hoses made. Many GM cars/trucks had a/c compressor mounted on left side of engine.

Can you expound on this point please. I will be trying to get the factory ac in on of my trucks going and j dont see why this is pertinent.

[F.A.A.benny]

Originally Posted by WIDESIDE72

4. Get alternator brackets to move alternator to other side of engine. Or, get compressor brackets for left side mounting and have custom a/c hoses made. Many GM cars/trucks had a/c compressor mounted on left side of engine.

Can you expound on this point please. I will be trying to get the factory ac in on of my trucks going and j dont see why this is pertinent.

I think his point is that he has two choices here. He can either stay with his alt on the pass side but will have to mount the comp on the dr side and have a hose set modified to work with the other factory parts or swap the alt back to the dr side, and everything would be a bolt-in deal as