72 GMC Short Step Build

[jmking9]

Where did you get the little brackets you welded to the axle?

[jmking9]

Also, are you running a booster with your Wilwood master? Do you have any pictures of the way you ran the stainless lines you bent up?

[Z10]

Originally Posted by jmking9

Also, are you running a booster with your Wilwood master? Do you have any pictures of the way you ran the stainless lines you bent up?

Yes, it's a CPP booster. It took me 3 tries to get this one. The first one had the wrong bracket, the second didn't work, and I'm not confident this one is working correctly. Also I was on my second CPP master cylinder. The first one leaked. Finally decided to replace the unused replacement with Wilwood.
Once again, not a fan of CPP.

Here's a few pics I had, if you need to see something else, let me know and I'll take some more for you.

[jmking9]

Thanks for the pics. Your setup looks great! I'm also using the CPP booster with the same Wilwood MC and prop valve kit that you're running. S here are my ?'s
*Was the pushrod that was in the CPP booster and MC the correct length to work with the Wilwood MC?
*Did you have to use the little bullet looking thing? I know Wilwood sells them in different lengths, so I was curious.
*What did you use for sealant on the threads of the plug where the brake switch was? Wasn't sure if brake fluid neede something different than normal.
*Do you think it would be ok to plug one of the "front out" ports on the prop valve and just run one hard line down to the T fitting on the crossmember?
I really appreciate your help. I'm going to try and install all of mine this weekend and it's nice to know ahead of time what additional parts I might need, so I can have them on hand. I live out where it's over an hour round trip to a good parts store. So, if there was anything else you can think of that you needed, let me know. Thanks again!

[knomadd]

Everything looks awesome! Love the wilwood brake system. I'm going through a similar install myself.

Originally Posted by jmking9

Thanks for the pics. Your setup looks great! I'm also using the CPP booster with the same Wilwood MC and prop valve kit that you're running. S here are my ?'s
*Was the pushrod that was in the CPP booster and MC the correct length to work with the Wilwood MC?
*Did you have to use the little bullet looking thing? I know Wilwood sells them in different lengths, so I was curious.
*What did you use for sealant on the threads of the plug where the brake switch was? Wasn't sure if brake fluid neede something different than normal.
*Do you think it would be ok to plug one of the "front out" ports on the prop valve and just run one hard line down to the T fitting on the crossmember?
I really appreciate your help. I'm going to try and install all of mine this weekend and it's nice to know ahead of time what additional parts I might need, so I can have them on hand. I live out where it's over an hour round trip to a good parts store. So, if there was anything else you can think of that you needed, let me know. Thanks again!

Not to hijack here, but to help out, I'm doing this install now. I'm using a Hydratech hydro boost system instead of the vacuum booster you are both using, but yes, I used the "bullet". The pushrod from the hydratech system is about flush with the MC mounting flange. If your booster is similar, I'd use the bullet.

**I am also curious about the plug in place of the brake light switch.**

You can absolutely plug one of the front outputs on the prop valve. I'm doing this myself and it even says it can be done in the instructions (I think that's where I read it). I've seen this done multiple times with other setups too.

One thing to be cautious of... If you are using the existing brake lines, or same size lines as factory, while the front lines are 3/16 tube and use 3/8 fittings, the rear line is 1/4" and uses a larger fitting (the original prop valve uses a very large fitting, not a standard 7/16 typically used for 1/4" tube). However, the Wilwood prop valve only accepts the 3/8 fittings. You can get an adapter from 3/8 to 7/16 from Oreilly's. Ask for Edelmann Part No. 2858430. You'll need to check to make sure your fitting is 7/16, and if it isn't you'll want to cut it off and reflare the line for a standard fitting to use the adapter.

[Z10]

Not to hijack here, but to help out, I'm doing this install now. I'm using a Hydratech hydro boost system instead of the vacuum booster you are both using, but yes, I used the "bullet". The pushrod from the hydratech system is about flush with the MC mounting flange. If your booster is similar, I'd use the bullet.

**I am also curious about the plug in place of the brake light switch.**

You can absolutely plug one of the front outputs on the prop valve. I'm doing this myself and it even says it can be done in the instructions (I think that's where I read it). I've seen this done multiple times with other setups too.

One thing to be cautious of... If you are using the existing brake lines, or same size lines as factory, while the front lines are 3/16 tube and use 3/8 fittings, the rear line is 1/4" and uses a larger fitting (the original prop valve uses a very large fitting, not a standard 7/16 typically used for 1/4" tube). However, the Wilwood prop valve only accepts the 3/8 fittings. You can get an adapter from 3/8 to 7/16 from Oreilly's. Ask for Edelmann Part No. 2858430. You'll need to check to make sure your fitting is 7/16, and if it isn't you'll want to cut it off and reflare the line for a standard fitting to use the adapter.
__________________
-Duane

Your fitting info is correct. However, you should use the longer rod with the booster and not the bullet. Although it may work, the smaller rod can actually fall out of the Master and leave you without brakes. Car Boss may chime in with a story about this. Have no idea when using hydro boost.

I stand corrected, please see Car Boss' explanation below.

[jmking9]

Originally Posted by knomadd

You can get an adapter from 3/8 to 7/16 from Oreilly's. Ask for Edelmann Part No. 2858430. You'll need to check to make sure your fitting is 7/16, and if it isn't you'll want to cut it off and reflare the line for a standard fitting to use the adapter.

Thanks for the info.


Your fitting info is correct. However, you should use the longer rod with the booster and not the bullet. Although it may work, the smaller rod can actually fall out of the Master and leave you without brakes. Car Boss may chime in with a story about this. Have no idea when using hydro boost.[/QUOTE]

This is what I was afraid of. I've been researching the compatibility of the CPP booster and Wilwood master for 2 months. The only thread I could find where it was discussed was by Chad(CC69RAT) who got his feelings hurt and left the board. So I couldn't ask him what he did. So you're my lone resource
So what length of rod, and where did you get it? Also, I'm guessing regular thread sealant works for the plug?

[diceman50]

Originally Posted by jmking9

Thanks for the pics. Your setup looks great! I'm also using the CPP booster with the same Wilwood MC and prop valve kit that you're running. S here are my ?'s
*Was the pushrod that was in the CPP booster and MC the correct length to work with the Wilwood MC?
*Did you have to use the little bullet looking thing? I know Wilwood sells them in different lengths, so I was curious.
*What did you use for sealant on the threads of the plug where the brake switch was? Wasn't sure if brake fluid neede something different than normal.
*Do you think it would be ok to plug one of the "front out" ports on the prop valve and just run one hard line down to the T fitting on the crossmember?
I really appreciate your help. I'm going to try and install all of mine this weekend and it's nice to know ahead of time what additional parts I might need, so I can have them on hand. I live out where it's over an hour round trip to a good parts store. So, if there was anything else you can think of that you needed, let me know. Thanks again!

Car Boss here. I don't think an online forum is the place to solicit or give advice about brakes. Also, there are too many variables in supposedly identical vehicles to assume that what you are told will work on your vehicle. Without hands-on access to your truck I think it would be dangerous to offer advice. You should educate yourself on all of the components in you system and seek help from a brake professional. If you don't understand how it all works find someone who does.

[jmking9]

^I understand where your coming from. I was just trying to get an idea of any additional parts I may need to have on hand to make the master to the booster work together. I don't want to have the truck apart for weeks while I'm waiting on parts. I understand how it works, and I know all 50yr old trucks aren't identical. I just thought it would be helpful to get an idea from someone who is doing the same swap.

Z10 your truck is looking great, Thanks for the pictures and info.

[Possmguts]

Man.. where can I get me one of those Car Bosses? They sure look handy...

[Z10]

Here it is painted and mounted with a custom fabricated aluminum spacer by Diceman.

[Z10]

And one last one. Now I need to bolt on the Firestone and Boss 338 spare.

[Z10]

Here it is mounted with an 18" Boss 338.

[mcbassin]

Originally Posted by Z10

Here it is mounted with an 18" Boss 338.

Looking good! Really digging the Boss rims

[Z10]

Originally Posted by jmking9

Where did you get the little brackets you welded to the axle?

Jmking, that's a Car Boss fabrication piece, like so many details on this truck.