Non-Powered drum-drum to Power disc-drum

[clemsonteg]

Sometime in the next week or so I will be swapping my front drum brakes to disc brakes with drop spindles. In the process, I will also install a booster and disc-drum master and prop valve. I think I have everything covered except the brake lines.

What is everyone doing for that? I saw 72blckbuty's build, specifically the brake lines in this post http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...6&postcount=63. It is hard to tell, but it looks like the rear brakes just use a short piece of line along with a union. Is it necessary to do all new lines in the front, or could a new line run from the prop valve to the factory T and stop there?

[kitsbeach]

Originally Posted by clemsonteg

Sometime in the next week or so I will be swapping my front drum brakes to disc brakes with drop spindles. In the process, I will also install a booster and disc-drum master and prop valve. I think I have everything covered except the brake lines.

What is everyone doing for that? I saw 72blckbuty's build, specifically the brake lines in this post http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...6&postcount=63. It is hard to tell, but it looks like the rear brakes just use a short piece of line along with a union. Is it necessary to do all new lines in the front, or could a new line run from the prop valve to the factory T and stop there?

I'm about to do mine (1967) and I was told I should be able to bend everything forward to fit the brake booster in there, and I bought "adapter lines" from ECE (I think) to adapt my '67 behind-the-crossmember lines to the disks.

I think newer trucks have the front brake lines in front of the crossmember and 67's have them behind (or the other way around).

[clemsonteg]

Thanks. So far, I think I have been able to bend my rear line into place. I am having a hard time finding the correct adapter for the line to connect to the prop valve. It looks like the factory may have used oversized fittings to avoid plugging the line into the wrong hole, but hopefully I can find the correct adapter. if not, I guess I will cut the end of the line, put on a new fitting, and re-flare it. I suck at flaring lines so I was trying to avoid that.

For the front, I found an adapter for the crossmember tee, and I bought a pre-flared 30" piece of 3/16" line that I was able to bend to the new prop valve.