Shocks for lowered, not bagged 69 burb

[highwinger]

I think I may need to replace my shocks but I'm not sure how to define what to get. The previous owner said it was lowered ~3", but I don't count on it and I believe it has lowered shocks.

1) how can I tell how much it was lowered?
2) how do I pick a shock that helps the ride: reduce sway & bounce but smooth?

[4shongo]

I have a 3"/4" drop on mine and yours looks pretty close. I have CPP lowered shocks on mine and they work great.

[highwinger]

Originally Posted by 4shongo

I have a 3"/4" drop on mine and yours looks pretty close. I have CPP lowered shocks on mine and they work great.

Do you know the distance between hub center and fender? One thread said 16-3/4" for 5" drop.

Did you drop with springs only or spindles?

[Advanced Design]

If the shocks are not bottoming out, I would pull one front and one rear off then measure compressed and extended length. A good parts store can locate a replacement based on that information. Shock company websites usually provide the information as well.

I need to do the same for my Burb too. It is a little bouncy and rough riding. The guys at Ridetech offered to set me up. Good shocks I think though a little spendy.

[highwinger]

Good info, thanks.

My hub to wheel well is only 16" in the front. Does that mean I more than a 5" drop?

I will spend some time this weekend looking at the springs and such to see if I can quantify the drop. Any ideas on how, would be appreciated.

[Advanced Design]

Measuring from wheel well down has the variable of tire size and body bushing collapse that will change the measurement. It would probably give you some idea to compare your to a stock Suburban that has no spring sag.

Newer trucks ride height in front is determined by measuring from the lower control arm bushing center to the floor and by measuring the distance from bottom of the spindle to floor then subtracting for the difference. This is the Z height and the service information gives a spec for this. I went through a 69 service manual located here ...http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...194&styleid=63
Looking for the same it isn't there. You might have more luck.

Unless the springs have a tag on them I don't know how you can tell what they are.

[72MARIO]

Dont forget to relocate the rear shock if its lowered any amount. Having shock relocates is the best improvement you can make.

[highwinger]

Originally Posted by 72MARIO

Dont forget to relocate the rear shock if its lowered any amount. Having shock relocates is the best improvement you can make.

relocate? where to? I have a shock with a dent, is that why?

[highwinger]

I did some snooping this weekend:

1) Unless the springs have been replaced, I think there is one less turn (6T) than stock (7T).
2) I pulled some numbers off the existing shock but couldn't find any references online.
3) Very little static distance above rubber bumper (~1" or 2)

Can y'all see anything pertinent in the pic?

[72MARIO]

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=451200

Have a look at this.

[highwinger]

Originally Posted by 72MARIO

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=451200

Have a look at this.

Thanks Mario, great link.

Some things I found with it:
1) Mine are right at the stated max 30deg angle.
2) My lower brackets don't support the shock on both sides.
3) It seems I need to extend the lower bracket so the axle doesn't hit the shocks.
4) shock length as sitting is ~13-1/4".
5) I counted the spring turns, don't recall now but I think 5 or 6. They don't appear to be cut since they have smaller turn radius on the upper & lower ends.

More questions of course:
1) What's the best shock angle?
2) It seems moving the lower bracket and leaving the upper would clear the axle. Is there a reason to move both?