Exploded view of cab (patch panels- 1955 2nd series

[Richs'55]

Getting ready to start cutting out the rust. Need an exploded view of patch panels and pillar posts, running boards and all other widely available parts.

Of coarse, the usual cab corners, lower hinge pocket and running board need to be completely replaced, but need to see the little details that go along with these areas.

Also have a lot of rust on the inside above both front and back windows. Anybody know of a patch for above front and back window available?

Along with this post, which panels have you had good luck with fitment? I have heard LMC is good, but any others that you would recommend?

[Richs'55]

Just to show what I am up against, here is what we did last night.

Before,


After.


Again, before.......


After.....

[dsraven]

I would recommend just buying a whole new roof panel and outer A pillar panels. it will be faster and a better job. the roof panel is held on with a bunch of spot welds in the rain gutter plus across the top of the windshield and door posts. it would be a time consuming thing but you would easily have it off in a couple of hours. then you can check out the back side of the inner roof panels and door pillars. it would suck to patch it and deal with all the warpage etc and then have to deal with rust spots coming back in a year. check the build thread for kabwe, post 4. it has the roof off in that pic so you can see how it looks. I would want to check the remains of the A pillar for integrity while it is all apart.

[dsraven]

check brothers, classic parts, lmc, tuckers or others for a pic of the patch panels. even look on ebay for an actual pic which may be better. none of the aftermarkert stuff is going to fit like original, in my limited experience anyway, but then I have had original panels that fit poorly too so it is what it is.

[Richs'55]

I have checked some of the sites you mention, but more importantly, I would like to hear of what brands fit the best. I know that the aftermarket panels don't fit worth a darn, but are some better than others? Dynacorn, Goodmark, others better than some? What has everybody kind of came to decision as to what is best?

And I think you are right about just replacing the whole roof and pillar post. Would be just a cheap in the end and make it a lot easier to finish the paint process

[tmoble]

After realistic consideration of parts, materials and time on those repairs, what would you think about going to Az or N.M. and buying a better cab? It might still have a truck attached to it, but WTH?

[Richs'55]

That would be a great idea and I really thought about that right after the stripping of the paint showed the "real" condition of the cab. Right now, I am afraid I will buy another cab just to strip it and end up with something similar again and $3-4K deeper in debt.

[dwcsr]

For the parts that you need to fix that cab Dynacorn fits the best, I've done several roof panels and we only use and sell Dynacorn unless they don't make what we need.

[mr48chev]

I think LMC shows some of the better exploded view patch panels.


Premier street rods has a lot of the little "I didn't think of that" sheet metal parts their catalog is all mixed up without specific model sections so it takes a bit of searching even in the paper version. https://www.premierstreetrod.com/det..._Complete.html 7500 and they will ship you a complete cab.

[bowt1ed]

I also used Dynacorn for all of my panels (rocker steps, firewall/toeboard, inner/outer cab corners, door skins and lower hinge pillar pockets. Everything fit very well, except my rocker steps were bent 1/4" shallow at the 90 and didn't make contact with the brace. Rebent them and all is good. Highly recommend their panels. Jim

[Richs'55]

Thanks for the recommendation on Dynacorn. That is what I was looking to hear.

mr48chev- That new cab just might be the answer. Just called Premier and was quoted $7500 + $250 to crate and shipping ($650) to Iowa. Might be a lot cheaper in the end than all the new panels and labor to get the old cab just in good shape. Thanks for the info.

[dsraven]

have you priced a new cab? they come complete with doors. if I was gonna do it again I may consider that option. my cab was pretty bad as well. no vin on the new cab could be a thing though.

[Richs'55]

Originally Posted by dsraven

have you priced a new cab? they come complete with doors. if I was gonna do it again I may consider that option. my cab was pretty bad as well. no vin on the new cab could be a thing though.

Well, that's what I was working on this afternoon.

I figured with new doors, which I needed anyway, and a new roof panel, inner roof panel, 2 new A pillar posts, new cab corners (inside and out), 2 new rocker panels with step and new driver and passenger floor panels, I would spend about $3500- $3750 shipped to my door. Add in labor and time to repair all those areas, I'm guessing it would bring my "investment" up over $8000 or more.

New cab above from Premier, including doors was quoted at $8413 shipped to my door. With selling the old cab for what it's worth would make it a better buy to get a new cab.

I am concerned about the VIN for the new cab. Anybody know if you keep any part of the old cab, is it still considered the "same truck" as the original?

[OrrieG]

For the level of build you are doing I would recommend getting a factory assembly manual, about $30 online. It shows all the metal construction and all the little pieces you will need to finishe it, including the ones that fell off or completely rusted away.

[Richs'55]

Originally Posted by OrrieG

For the level of build you are doing I would recommend getting a factory assembly manual, about $30 online. It shows all the metal construction and all the little pieces you will need to finishe it, including the ones that fell off or completely rusted away.

Already got it. One of the first things that I bought after buying the truck.

[dwcsr]

Your frame has the same number as the cab plate, I would keep the cab plate and reattach it. If you sell the cab and plate and someone uses it you have titling issues on both trucks. Just be aware that the new cab will still have fit issues with the doors so its not a uncrate it and paint it deal.

[dsraven]

did you look at the cab mounts and inside the cowl vents? water runs down from the vent in front of the windshield and, usually, escapes through a nickel sized hole at the bottom of the cowl vent (the bumps on each side of the cab/firewall). the problem is the escape drain gets plugged with leaves (doesn't even take that much) and then the water level increases inside the cowl until it runs out on the cab floor. then the floor rusts out taking the cab mounts, running boards and hinge pillars along for the ride. one reason why lots of guys are plugging the vent intake with sheet metal (besides it looks cool). I would do a complete "feasability study" on the old cab before you make up your mind. include stuff like oxy/acetylene, zip discs, welding materials, power etc to complete the job, as well as the new panels and the extra time. you will be surprised what you find. ask some one who has done a cab and they will usually not know what they have invested. partially because they are afraid to find out. I have been doing my cab as a learning experience, and have also not really wanted to know the total. i am sure, in hind sight, that i could have bought a new cab and been money ahead. I understand about what the previous posts are saying about the new cab fitment issues, but those same issues are the ones you will be dealing with on the old cab anyway, usually. these trucks were built for work, not show. I really hope this doesn't discourage you from doing a build, I just would hate to see another one started and left part way through because of the cost.
anyway, that is my 2 cents worth.

[Richs'55]

Originally Posted by dsraven

did you look at the cab mounts and inside the cowl vents?

You mean, whats left of them.

Originally Posted by dsraven

water runs down from the vent in front of the windshield and, usually, escapes through a nickel sized hole at the bottom of the cowl vent (the bumps on each side of the cab/firewall).

You mean, silver dollar size.

Originally Posted by dsraven

...until it runs out on the cab floor. then the floor rusts out taking the cab mounts, running boards....

Again, they are already gone.

Originally Posted by dsraven

I would do a complete "feasability study" on the old cab before you make up your mind. include stuff like oxy/acetylene, zip discs, welding materials, power etc to complete the job, as well as the new panels and the extra time. you will be surprised what you find.

I was already planning on replacing most of the bottom of the cab. Just wanted to make sure I wasn't missing anything (my feasability study) on the small parts around the bottom. It's when the stripping revealed the roof and A pillars too, that was kind of the tipping point. Then when mr48chev showed me the whole cab picture, my decision was made. (read my post #13).

Originally Posted by dsraven

I really hope this doesn't discourage you from doing a build, I just would hate to see another one started and left part way through because of the cost.

Nothing will discourage this resurrection of this (or the new cab) '55 Chevy truck. I will have the money, even if I spend more than it's worth, to do the truck justice. This isn't my first classic car rebuild. It's more about the journey than the cost of the ticket.