How are you guys running your HEI wiring?

[CastIron]

I'm replacing my original 307 with a new 350 on my '69 C1500 and making some other mods at the same time. I'm installing a new HEI distributor. My plan is to remove the original resistor wire from the bulkhead connector and run a new wire from the same position on the connector directly to the distributor. Is anybody else doing it this way?
When tracing the original wiring it appears that the resistor wire runs down the harness to near the starter, then splices into the yellow wire that runs between the starter solenoid and the original coil. I plan on removing this.

On a slightly different subject, I'm adding an electric choke carburetor. I haven't figured where to run it that wire from, but I'm planning on checking to see if there's any empty places on the bulkhead connector that have power when switched on. Anybody have connector face diagrams that show what wire goes where?

What do you guys think? My goal is to have a clean-looking, reliable engine harness.

[lts70]

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=553330

[70STOVEBOLT]

That is how I did mine, just replace the resistor wire with at least a 12 gauge wire and you will be good to go. I forget where I connected the wire for my electric choke. I believe there is a 20 gauge brown wire with a white stripe that had a female Packard 56 end on it that terminated in the cowl wiring gutter that I used. I can look after work and let you know on that.

[Davidf]

When I purchased my truck, the engine wiring harness was a hacked up mess. So, I purchased a replacement engine harness from one of the major vendors. The harness was specifically prepared for HEI distributor. Killed two birds with one stone.

[leftybass209]

I ran a new wire from the bulkhead as well. I later switched to an m&h harness that already had it done, but same thing.

I ran my choke wire from the Transmission spark control wire which should have a terminal in the wire gutter, but I can't remember what year trucks had it. You can run a wire from an ignition unfused terminal on your fuse block with the appropriate Inline fuse.

I'd say your doing it the smart way, instead of splicing and pulling from other circuits.

[beaterku]

I created a new relayed circuit for my HEI. I used the original resister circuit, minus the resister, to trigger a relayed power source directly from the battery.

[michael bustamante]

i ran a 12 gauge thru the firewall next to the hei and down to the ign open space on the fusebox

[Fitz]

Originally Posted by CastIron

I'm replacing my original 307 with a new 350 on my '69 C1500 and making some other mods at the same time. I'm installing a new HEI distributor. My plan is to remove the original resistor wire from the bulkhead connector and run a new wire from the same position on the connector directly to the distributor. Is anybody else doing it this way?
When tracing the original wiring it appears that the resistor wire runs down the harness to near the starter, then splices into the yellow wire that runs between the starter solenoid and the original coil. I plan on removing this.

On a slightly different subject, I'm adding an electric choke carburetor. I haven't figured where to run it that wire from, but I'm planning on checking to see if there's any empty places on the bulkhead connector that have power when switched on. Anybody have connector face diagrams that show what wire goes where?

What do you guys think? My goal is to have a clean-looking, reliable engine harness.

Those of us with working ignitions wired them up as the manufacturer recommends in their wiring diagrams.

[hamjet]

I pulled the bulkhead apart, replaced the resister wire with 12 ga. wire to the dizzy. at the dizzy where you would put a connector to plug in, I used a larger ga. connector and slipped both the 12 and a 14 ga. wire together to go to the electric choke.

[midniteblues]

i had a couple butchered harness's layin around so i pulled the big red power wire with the terminal out of the bulkhead.
then on a jy trip i got the oe hei plug with the longest red wire i could find. then soldered it together in the gutter.

plugged it right back in where the original resistor wire was.

while at the jy i also grabbed the correct connector that fit in the tac location on the hei.
they work better and wont fall out like a cheap female spade connector.

[wreckedchevy]

mine's feed off the keyed hot on the starter 22years with no issues so far

[EARNHARDT#3]

Just remove the resistor wire and replace with a 12 gauge wire. The bulkhead terminal connectors are readily available. Unwrap your harness, swap wires, wrap it back up. Takes about an hour.

[CastIron]

I just need the terminal to plug into the bulkhead connector and I'm good on the ignition circuit. It doesn't sound like anybody's had a problem doing that way.

For those of you with electric chokes, where are you running the power wire from? I did a quick check earlier today and it doesn't look like there's any extra switched power terminals in the fuse block that go to the engine harness. I did convert my 10DN alternator to a 10SI, so I'll look in that area and see if I can wire something up along the forward lamp/generator harness. I will have to look at a wiring diagram and try to find something.

[70STOVEBOLT]

I remember what I did for my choke now. I used an ignition unfused terminal on the fuse block and put an inline fuse between that and the interior side of the bulkhead connector.
Then I ran a wire from the same position on the engine side bulkhead connector to the electric choke. Made for a clean engine compartment installation. I don't know if I really need the inline fuse but I read on the forum somewhere (Electrical section I think) that is what someone suggested.

[dirtyjim]

just order pn 60-132046 from from truckandcarshop.com for $6
hei lead wire with a Packard 56 terminal on one end and hei connector on the other, I have the terminals and wire and would break even making them at that price