Anyone cut the bed rail lip? - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

randomco · 10-20-2015, 01:30 AM

Thinking about cutting the 1" lip off my bed rail so I can move the rear tubs up and sit the rear end down another 1". I would just trace the contour of the Hart Rod Chub Tubz and cut out that small area so the tubs would sit right under the top of the bed rail and let the rear come down another inch.

Bad idea? Jeopardize rigidity?

**special-K** · 10-20-2015, 07:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by randomco

Bad idea? Jeopardize rigidity?

Absolutely

hugger6933 · 10-20-2015, 12:47 PM

Along the flat part that is the inner flange it would allow the inner and outer skins to separate along the point where you cut the pinch weld off. the only thing to do then is to weld the two pieces together at the top of the flange if you can the grind that back metal finish and repaint in that area.

jdw · 10-20-2015, 01:17 PM

I don't see why you couldn't clamp it, cut it, and incorporate it into the tub, but I don't have a bed I can go look at. I don't imagine you're looking to haul too much gravel in there.

Andy4639 · 10-20-2015, 01:57 PM

If there is a will there is a way! Just clamp it together and cut it out and reweld it. Simple enough!

67ChevyRedneck · 10-20-2015, 02:37 PM

You will lose some structural rigidity if you cut that section out (bed would be able to "wiggle" back and forth at the point). However, I think you could get around that by plug welding in a 2"? or so piece of 1/8" flat steel under the rail. Push it against the inside of that rail so the rail wants to push against it if it tries to flex. I'd go at least 6" past the cut. Drill a bunch of holes, plug weld, and weld the ends, and along the inside of the flange where it drops down. Should be just as good as that sheet metal flange. You could even slice the bedside where you need it and fold it over the new steel piece and weld that down for a cleaner look.

10-20-2015, 01:30 AM	#1
randomco Registered User Join Date: May 2014 Location: San Diego, CA Posts: 180	Anyone cut the bed rail lip? Thinking about cutting the 1" lip off my bed rail so I can move the rear tubs up and sit the rear end down another 1". I would just trace the contour of the Hart Rod Chub Tubz and cut out that small area so the tubs would sit right under the top of the bed rail and let the rear come down another inch. Bad idea? Jeopardize rigidity? Attached Images __________________ Josh 1970 Chevy C10 SWB build thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=639787 1976 Chevy k10 Silverado Bought new in '75 by my Grandfather 1965 Lincoln Continental Convertible - SOLD 1965 Lincoln Continental Sedan - SOLD

10-20-2015, 12:47 PM	#3
hugger6933 Registered User Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Marianna Arkansas Posts: 7,279	Re: Anyone cut the bed rail lip? Along the flat part that is the inner flange it would allow the inner and outer skins to separate along the point where you cut the pinch weld off. the only thing to do then is to weld the two pieces together at the top of the flange if you can the grind that back metal finish and repaint in that area.

10-20-2015, 01:17 PM	#4
jdw Registered User Join Date: Jan 2013 Location: portland oregon Posts: 156	Re: Anyone cut the bed rail lip? I don't see why you couldn't clamp it, cut it, and incorporate it into the tub, but I don't have a bed I can go look at. I don't imagine you're looking to haul too much gravel in there.

10-20-2015, 01:57 PM	#5
Andy4639 Old member Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: Liberty, & Garden City S.C. , U.S. Posts: 19,945	Re: Anyone cut the bed rail lip? If there is a will there is a way! Just clamp it together and cut it out and reweld it. Simple enough! __________________ 1971 LWB Custom, 6.0LS & 4L80E, Speedhut.com GPS speedometer & gauges with A/C. 20" Boss 338's Grey wheels 4 wheel disc brakes. My Driver Seeing the USA in a 71 Upstate SC GM Truck Club 2013,14 and 2016 Hot Rod Pour Tour http://upstategmtrucks.com/ Get out and drive the truck this summer and have some fun! It sucks not being able to hear! LWB trucks rule, if you don't think so measure your SWB! After talking to tech support at Air Lift I have found out that the kit I need is 60811. Per the measurements I gave them. Ride height of truck inside spring and inside diameter of springs.

10-20-2015, 02:37 PM	#6
67ChevyRedneck Hittin E-Z Street on Mud Tires Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Greenville, SC Posts: 23,090	Re: Anyone cut the bed rail lip? You will lose some structural rigidity if you cut that section out (bed would be able to "wiggle" back and forth at the point). However, I think you could get around that by plug welding in a 2"? or so piece of 1/8" flat steel under the rail. Push it against the inside of that rail so the rail wants to push against it if it tries to flex. I'd go at least 6" past the cut. Drill a bunch of holes, plug weld, and weld the ends, and along the inside of the flange where it drops down. Should be just as good as that sheet metal flange. You could even slice the bedside where you need it and fold it over the new steel piece and weld that down for a cleaner look. __________________ Jesse James 1967 C10 SWB Stepside: 350/700R4/3.73 1965 Ford Mustang: 289/T5-5spd/3.25 Trac-Loc 1968 Pontiac Firebird: Project Fire Chicken! 2015 Silverado Double Cab 5.3L Z71 2001 Jeep Wrangler Sport 4.0L 5spd 2020 Chevrolet Equinox Premium 2.0L Turbo 2011 Mustang V6 ~ Wife's ride American Born, Country by the Grace of God 1967 CST Shop Truck Rebuild! My 1967 C-10 Build Thread My Vintage Air A/C Install Project "On a Dime" Trying my hand at Home Renovation! 1965 Mustang Modifications!



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