67 C20 push start

[truckkeepsmesane]

I just bought this 67 C20. The guy I bought it from said he had it running last year but when I went to pick it up it wouldn't start. After rigging a better ground I turned the key and still got nothing. Then I noticed a button on the lower left side of the dash and pushed it on a whim. She turned over! Still not running but the engine isn't seized. I will trouble shoot that more later. My question is: was this a standard option or a previous owner modification?
Additionally the truck has a 67 VIN the traditional small back glass but also has the side markers like a 68. When I start my resto I think the side markers are going away. Thoughts?

[Chucks72Longbed]

That switch is not original. The start potion of the ignition switch probably went bad so the po installed that switch. I like the way the 67s look originally. JMO

[truckkeepsmesane]

Thanks Chucks72Longbed. Do you know if there was a factory switch on that location?

[Chucks72Longbed]

I don't believe so. Po probably drilled it.

[michael bustamante]

no where that button is shuld be a blank. no hole.
i think those side markers are add ons also from a previous owner but i cant tell for sure. too far away from the truck

[truckkeepsmesane]

Thanks for the info guys. Side markers will be going away. This will be my first restoration and I want to get as close to stock as possible. A buddy was telling me the engines are marked on the front of the block with humps or angles to note what type of engine they are. Any tips?

[GASoline71]

Those won't tell you anything much about the engine.

Go to the back of the engine on the bellhousing flange on the drivers side and there will be a cast in number. Wipe the 40 years of grease, oil and dirt away and locate the number and write it down. Then Look at the large "pad" just in front of the passenger side cylinder head. Wipe off the 40 years of grease, oil and dirt and you'll se a stamped number on that pad. Post those 2 numbers in this thread. That will help to determine what engine.

Gary

[5567Cruiser]

If you have access to a 1967 Truck Manual it will have all the info you need for identifying engine etc. Good luck on your project and by using the search function of this site you will be able to find out just about anything as far as troubleshooting problems and how to do things on your truck. All the members are very helpful.

[truckkeepsmesane]

Alright, here is my update: today I dropped in the new battery and replaced the carburetor mount gasket. After liberal application of starting fluid she will still not start. The engine turns over but I don't have ignition. I pulled the plugs and they are dirty but not worn so I cleaned them. I also checked the points and they are not fused but I am a little wary on adjustment. I also have a bad seal in the carb because it is leaking fuel and making a sucking sound with the choke closed completely. It is a Rochester 2B so I think that I am going to rebuild it. I've heard its best to go to a pointless system. All thoughts and advice are welcome.
Additionally I have found that I have a 4 speed Saginaw, and a standard 283. Though the truck was built in 67 as previously mentioned but the side markers are definitely factory unless the PO was good enough to joggle the fenders for mounting. Thanks in advance.

[Saclandman]

Sounds like you have what I have. I rebuilt the 2bbl, but it still leaked. Ran ok though. Then found the crack in the block and swapped it out for another year correct 283. Slapped a edelbrock 4 bbl and and aluminum intake along with an HEI dizzy. Runs like a top now. You gonna keep it a 3/4 ton? I vote for yes, but it's your truck. Like seeing them on the road regardless. Good luck.

[oldertruckfan]

get a bottle with a mister pump and put a little gas in it . have someone roll the truck over while you use the mister on the carb. if it starts, that should tell you its a fuel problem

[truckkeepsmesane]

Originally Posted by Saclandman

Sounds like you have what I have. I rebuilt the 2bbl, but it still leaked. Ran ok though. Then found the crack in the block and swapped it out for another year correct 283. Slapped a edelbrock 4 bbl and and aluminum intake along with an HEI dizzy. Runs like a top now. You gonna keep it a 3/4 ton? I vote for yes, but it's your truck. Like seeing them on the road regardless. Good luck.

Definitely keeping it as a 3/4 because I think it's pretty cool. I don't really see as many of them on the road as the 1/2 tons. I degreased my block to inspect for cracks. I looked at your build thread and it looks like I am having similar problems to yours at the beginning. No brakes, not running, but she'll get there. Doing a little every weekend when I can. I thought about buying a 383 stroker off a friend of mine but I think I'll stick to the original options. I've PO nightmare wiring to deal with too. I'll start a build thread once the real work kicks off

[truckkeepsmesane]

Originally Posted by oldertruckfan

get a bottle with a mister pump and put a little gas in it . have someone roll the truck over while you use the mister on the carb. if it starts, that should tell you its a fuel problem

I will be doing that tomorrow! Thanks for the tip!

[elf w/capital T]

Nice buy btw! Let me get that switch if you are not going to use it ;-)

[In The Ten Ring]

I think starter buttons are neat. A starter button to the left of the steering wheel would be convenient and along the lines (I believe) of the 1950's model Chevy cars.

Good luck with your truck.

As for the 283 and 3/4 ton, I wish my truck was both (and lwb). If I get another truck it will be a lwb.

[truckkeepsmesane]

After clearing off a lot of grease I found this number on the block V03I3WA. Any help with identifying the numbers would be appreciated.

[davepl]

Originally Posted by Chucks72Longbed

I don't believe so. Po probably drilled it.

Yeah. That's about the location where I have a hole in my now-assembled frame-off restoration (if I used emoticons, there'd be one of me crying here). I forgot to tag that hole before welding up the various other bonus holes it had accumulated over its liftime. This was one where the PO had installed a brake light (which could have been done by tapping into the brown wire to trigger the factory light, but I digress).

In my case I body-color-painted a plug and stuck it in. You never see it. And if someone asks, it's for the optional Corvette ram air system my truck didn't come with.

[mechanicalman]

Originally Posted by truckkeepsmesane

Thanks for the info guys. Side markers will be going away. This will be my first restoration and I want to get as close to stock as possible. A buddy was telling me the engines are marked on the front of the block with humps or angles to note what type of engine they are. Any tips?

On the humps or angles he may be talking about the heads; I don't think you will have humps because it's a 2bbl. It's only an indication of the type of heads relative to the output of the engine.

[Keith Seymore]

Originally Posted by Chucks72Longbed

That switch is not original. The start potion of the ignition switch probably went bad so the po installed that switch. I like the way the 67s look originally. JMO

Same thing happened with my Chevelle. I mounted the button where the cigarette lighter used to be in the ashtray.

Same button, from the looks of it...

K

[old Chevy guy]

When you gave it starting fluid did it fire at all? If not Id say there's no spark. The points can open and close and still not spark. The surfaces get all cruded up and don't make contact. also make sure as well as opening they close all the way. If you crank it with the cap off you should see a small spark every time the points open. If not try cleaning the surfaces with a little piece of fine sand paper.

[truckkeepsmesane]

Okay guys I have decided to convert to a K20. The front clip has been removed and I am currently on the hunt for a 292 I6. I have found a few donors in the junk yard to help me. Advice is welcome.
I never did get it started...
Build thread and pictures to follow