11-06-2015, 06:56 PM | #26 |
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Re: cut coil question
Weird, that's how I do mine. I cut it so that the 'new' end is aligned to where the original end was so it seat's in the spring pocket of the a-arm w/o issue.
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67SWB-B.B.RetroRod 64SWB-Recycle 89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck 99CCSWB Driver All Fleetsides @rattlecankustoms in IG Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive. It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar..... Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol. |
11-06-2015, 07:16 PM | #27 |
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Re: cut coil question
Ya it has me boggled......im gonna spend some time on it tommorrow and get it sorted out hopefully......i really dont want to cut the 1" Belltechs.
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SOLD -77 CHEYENNE SWB, LS SWAPPED -1976 SILVERADO YUBA GOLD/NEUTRAL (2-TONE) Last edited by HotRod C/10; 11-06-2015 at 10:57 PM. |
11-06-2015, 07:18 PM | #28 |
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Re: cut coil question
I really don't see how people can even cut 1/4, 1/2. Or 3/4 off without that issue.
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SOLD -77 CHEYENNE SWB, LS SWAPPED -1976 SILVERADO YUBA GOLD/NEUTRAL (2-TONE) |
11-06-2015, 07:37 PM | #29 | |
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Re: cut coil question
Quote:
Look at the spring. They are the exact same spring wrapped in the same direction, yet they fit in a left or right a-arm. This isn't a precious fit. It's a very crude fit. The upper end of the spring wraps around a D shaped piece of formed steel in the upper spring pocket. The lower end of the spring finds it's home in a roughed out trough that's made into the lower a-rm. Not rocket science. Trim the spring to the length that gets you your ride height. My years of doing this tell me to not go over 1-1/2 coils or it will be loose in the pocket at full droop. Some people put a larger snubber in the upper a-arm to prevent droop and keep the spring tight. I will tell you if I trim the coils the same and one side ends up 1/4"-1/2" different than the other side,... I have no trouble trimming the coil a little more so both sides are the same. Sure you might have the springs in and out 5-6 times,... but that's what it takes. Plus who said the frames on these trucks are straight to begin with. 99% of most people never measure how their trucks set before they start all of these modification.
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Keith Convert to disc brakes. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=444823 Last edited by lolife99; 11-06-2015 at 10:44 PM. |
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11-06-2015, 09:25 PM | #30 | |
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Re: cut coil question
Quote:
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11-06-2015, 10:43 PM | #31 |
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Re: cut coil question
Typo. Coils.
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Keith Convert to disc brakes. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=444823 |
11-06-2015, 10:47 PM | #32 |
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Re: cut coil question
But I do trim the nose of the lower a-arm.
Trim part of the gutter off the sides and clean up the lower ball joint area. This helps with clearance on drop spindle equipped trucks with. 15" wheels with more than 3-1/2" of backspacing.
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11-06-2015, 10:56 PM | #33 |
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Re: cut coil question
Ya I did that when the 15's wer on.........I have since gone to 20's.
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SOLD -77 CHEYENNE SWB, LS SWAPPED -1976 SILVERADO YUBA GOLD/NEUTRAL (2-TONE) |
11-06-2015, 11:00 PM | #34 |
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Re: cut coil question
I like the coils to sit in the arm as GM intended.... I just want them shorter vs. what GM did. I know orientation doesn't really matter @ the a-arm.... I'm just one of those that requires symmetry.
I always trim the a-arms back to the shock bracket area on both front & back side too needed or not. I think it's habitual now after having multiple trucks that required the trim.
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67SWB-B.B.RetroRod 64SWB-Recycle 89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck 99CCSWB Driver All Fleetsides @rattlecankustoms in IG Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive. It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar..... Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol. |
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