3 speed to Powerglide swap crossmember

[EARNHARDT#3]

I am swapping my Muncie sm318 for a Powerglide. I have everything to do the job out of a donor 1967 Biscayne as well as a new aftermarket tubular crossmember. I have a 250 6cyl. Every thread I find pertains to swapping in a TH350 not a PG. Imagine that...nobody seems to like the Powerglide but I do and that's not my question here. The bell housing mount crossmember looks to be a real pain to get out. I've measured and it looks like the Powerglide will fit with the original bell housing mount crossmember still in place. Is the Powerglide compact enough (compared to the TH350 or others) to fit with that crossmember in place? I'm inclined to do a test fit to see but if I could get some information beforehand I'd appreciate if. Thanks guys.

[hugger6933]

The powerglide is very similar in size as the TH350. Anything you have read pertaining to that swap could be used in your powerglide swap. I liked my old powerglides too, I had one with a .500 brake and then later a protree brake glide with hard shafts. I had it in a car way too heavy for it but I was launching at sometimes close to 5000 rpm

[EARNHARDT#3]

Ugh I'm so dreading that crossmember job. Oh well gotta do what ya gotta do! My truck is just a cruiser and it's going to be more enjoyable (to me) with an automatic.

[midniteblues]

Awe come on its not that hard.
Ya really don't need to remove the rivits just saw zall the member as close to the rails that you can get.

I waited till my frame was bare to get mine out. But I did the kids truck like I said above.

[EARNHARDT#3]

Originally Posted by midniteblues

Awe come on its not that hard.
Ya really don't need to remove the rivits just saw zall the member as close to the rails that you can get.

I waited till my frame was bare to get mine out. But I did the kids truck like I said above.

LOL...yeah I do have a brand new Dewalt sawzall and some Milwaukee "torch" blades that are waiting to be used!

[70STOVEBOLT]

Air chizel with a sharp edge will make quick work of it. You will definitely want to wear ear protection though. If only took around 20 minutes to get mine out that way.

[EARNHARDT#3]

Originally Posted by 70STOVEBOLT

Air chizel with a sharp edge will make quick work of it. You will definitely want to wear ear protection though. If only took around 20 minutes to get mine out that way.

Mines a piece of crap from Harbor Freight 👎🏻

[9teen69]

Originally Posted by 70STOVEBOLT

Air chizel with a sharp edge will make quick work of it. You will definitely want to wear ear protection though. If only took around 20 minutes to get mine out that way.

x2 just did mine last week. Did a few with cutting wheel but air chisel fo sho. Lots of eye and ear protection. You'll figure out how to get the angle just right. I used a cheap one from HF, keep grinding blade sharp.

[EARNHARDT#3]

Originally Posted by 9teen69

x2 just did mine last week. Did a few with cutting wheel but air chisel fo sho. Lots of eye and ear protection. You'll figure out how to get the angle just right. I used a cheap one from HF, keep grinding blade sharp.

Hmm, ok thanks.

[EARNHARDT#3]

Cut it out in 3 pieces with my sawzall and grinder. If you've never used the Milwaukee brand blades called "The Torch" I highly recommend them. They cut through it like butter and the blade is still good! Well worth the money.

[9teen69]

Damn, always more than one way to skin a cat

Not sure why but I felt like I shouldn't damage it, seriously doubt anyone wants the crossmember.

I have used the torch blades when removing my old exhaust, they do work awesome.

[EARNHARDT#3]

Originally Posted by 9teen69

Damn, always more than one way to skin a cat

Not sure why but I felt like I shouldn't damage it, seriously doubt anyone wants the crossmember.

I have used the torch blades when removing my old exhaust, they do work awesome.

Yeah the chances of someone needing one of those crossmembers are slim to none. Anyone installing a manual transmission is probably going to be able to use crossmember that mounts further back like an automatic.

[midniteblues]

See it wasn't that hard. It just took some time and effort.
How's that 2spd working or isn't buttoned up yet?
I'll keep an eye out for them blades.

[EARNHARDT#3]

Originally Posted by midniteblues

See it wasn't that hard. It just took some time and effort.
How's that 2spd working or isn't buttoned up yet?
I'll keep an eye out for them blades.

No it ended up being real easy. I'm all disassembled now (driveshaft, exhaust, trans, bell housing, clutch, flywheel, starter) are all out. I dropped my driveshaft off to be shortened 5-3/4" (powerglide is 28-1/4" long, SM318 was 23-1/4" & my new yoke is 3/4" longer). I'm doing a new exhaust system and rear shocks as well. I have the trans cooler lines and bracket from the Biscayne that I'm hoping to be able to rebend to go to my radiators trans cooler fittings. I was lucky to find my block is drilled for the proper starter. I have a nice new Lokar floor shifter to install as well as a longer speedometer cable. All in all reassembly should be pretty easy. Everything I'm putting in is cleaned or new so that's a plus. I already have the carburetor with the automatic linkages installed so I just have to pop the kick down linkage on. I really don't enjoy driving manual transmissions like I used to so this should be nice.

[midniteblues]

I was curious what you were doing for a shifter. I here lokar stuff is real nice.
Sounds like you just need more time then. These short days are Killin me.

[EARNHARDT#3]

Originally Posted by midniteblues

I was curious what you were doing for a shifter. I here lokar stuff is real nice.
Sounds like you just need more time then. These short days are Killin me.

It does look very nicely made. Should be for $240. My truck already had a hole in the floor for the aftermarket floor shifter as well as my new carpet or else I would've put an auto column in it.

[midniteblues]

We put a auto floor shift in the kids 67 his was a low hump cab but we found if we layed a high hump in the shifter sat much higher and more comfy.so that's how we installed it.

[EARNHARDT#3]

Originally Posted by midniteblues

We put a auto floor shift in the kids 67 his was a low hump cab but we found if we layed a high hump in the shifter sat much higher and more comfy.so that's how we installed it.

This shifter looks like a stick shift shifter and is 16" tall.

[factorystock]

Originally Posted by EARNHARDT#3

Cut it out in 3 pieces with my sawzall and grinder.

A few questions I didn't seem to catch. I'm assuming you didn't mess with the rivits directly attached to frame, just cut off cross member along frame? Or did you completely remove all evidence of crossmember? Also, do you recommend pulling engine out or just support rear of engine on blocks?

[EARNHARDT#3]

Originally Posted by factorystock

A few questions I didn't seem to catch. I'm assuming you didn't mess with the rivits directly attached to frame, just cut off cross member along frame? Or did you completely remove all evidence of crossmember? Also, do you recommend pulling engine out or just support rear of engine on blocks?

I did go back and remove the rest of the crossmember. With the rest of it gone they were easy. I threw a jack stand under the back of the oil pan. There's barel any weight on it. The 250 must be pretty well balanced front to rear on the motor mounts. But it's definitely a little heavier to the rear.