Let's Build A 1 Ton Crew Cab 4x4

[marvgarr68]

First thing see what number block they are. Second have them checked out for cracks in the main bearing webbing. Third guarantee the heads are cracked. You are going to be better off with the mechanical pump. The only reason I went electronic is for my adjustable tunes. As far as making them reliable keep it stock with a better flowing turbo but leave boost stock. A scat crank and fluid damper is also a good idea. Good way to spot a mech pump over an elec one is the elec one is square with a plug on top and a solenoid.

[NastyBuzzard]

Originally Posted by marvgarr68

First thing see what number block they are. Second have them checked out for cracks in the main bearing webbing. Third guarantee the heads are cracked. You are going to be better off with the mechanical pump. The only reason I went electronic is for my adjustable tunes. As far as making them reliable keep it stock with a better flowing turbo but leave boost stock. A scat crank and fluid damper is also a good idea. Good way to spot a mech pump over an elec one is the elec one is square with a plug on top and a solenoid.

This one definitely has the plug on top and solenoid.

1 engine was rebuild completely by machine shop, heads re-done and all. When the guy started it up it had a tacking noise. He took the heads off and diagnosed it as a piston wasn't assembled or torqued correctly.

The other engine has 70,000 miles. He still has the truck it came out of to prove it. He was just swapping the 6.5 for a Vortec 350 but never finished it. The only issue it had was some slight bubbling when they checked the radiator, the heads were pulled and they noticed one of the head gaskets was on its way out but not gone completely.

That is the story I have been told. They are from 94&95 year trucks. Like I said he still has the one truck the 70k mile motor is from, its a single cab with a service bed/body or whatever on it.