Make it handle

[robnolimit]

Originally Posted by Bowtiguy

After getting my project on the road ( 6 months of ball busting) I'm in the fine tuning stage. I settled on a 3" Front 5" rear drop running my 20X8.5" 255's on the front and 20X10" w/ 295s on the rear.

Currently running..

-3/4" lower control arm mod for caster ( hands off wheel at 65mph, garage alignment)
- NLE front /rear swap bars (except I flipped the rear bar to a rear over the tank mounting position)
-NLE power R&P
- NLE Rear Pan hard bar
-NLE rear shock relocation brackets
-POL front shock relocation brackets
- CPP shocks front/rear
-CPP springs ( -1" front with 2" modular spindles; -3" rear w/ 2" blocks)
- all ball joints/bushings/brakes are new

I have to say it handles VERY well and my last ride was a HEAVILY modified C6Z06 that I road raced with NASA.

I'm considering measuring out and putting Ridetech HQ shocks on all four corners. The strong arms and coilovers would be nice, but for $2k I'm most of the way to a twin turbo setup for my LC9/TR6060 combo ;-)

Questions #1: Rob, do you rec the ridetech's to be used with your rear shock relo kit?

Questions #2: Is there a higher quality spring option out there ( Eibach, Hotchkis, etc..) that would...

1) work well with the NLE components

and

2) soften the ride a touch similar to the double coil over springs I had on the vette w/o going coilovers on the front of the truck?

BTW, I've been too focused to do a build thread but I hope to add a "how to" for the installation of the TR6060 trans out of a 14' SS Camaro.

sounds great. Swapping the sway bar to the back side of the rear axle works fine, but it does put more load on the chassis.

Coil-overs, when fitted into the OE front subframe, tend to be a little shorter than we would like, limiting the total suspension travel available. - These need to be fitted with stiffer spings to limit the travel so that the shocks don't top/bottom out all the time. That combination does not lend itself to a 'smoother' ride. Most 'drop' springs have the same trouble, they are stiffer than the OE, or the same rate. I would try the Jeep coil in the rear, and the spec'd cut truck spring up front. (I know the numbers are in the thread, monster that it is, I'd look them up for you but I am out of the shop today - maybe someone else can help here) From where your at shocks will make all the difference. I'd go Bilstien, RideTech HQ, or Viking DA.
Our shock relocation kit will NOT handle a coil over. But, we are working on a trailing arm/coil-over/C-notch package that will be available in jan/feb '16.

[SierraMtns]

Originally Posted by robnolimit

sounds great. Swapping the sway bar to the back side of the rear axle works fine, but it does put more load on the chassis.

Coil-overs, when fitted into the OE front subframe, tend to be a little shorter than we would like, limiting the total suspension travel available. - These need to be fitted with stiffer spings to limit the travel so that the shocks don't top/bottom out all the time. That combination does not lend itself to a 'smoother' ride. Most 'drop' springs have the same trouble, they are stiffer than the OE, or the same rate. I would try the Jeep coil in the rear, and the spec'd cut truck spring up front. (I know the numbers are in the thread, monster that it is, I'd look them up for you but I am out of the shop today - maybe someone else can help here) From where your at shocks will make all the difference. I'd go Bilstien, RideTech HQ, or Viking DA.
Our shock relocation kit will NOT handle a coil over. But, we are working on a trailing arm/coil-over/C-notch package that will be available in jan/feb '16.

Would love to see some pictures

[Bowtiguy]

Originally Posted by robnolimit

sounds great. Swapping the sway bar to the back side of the rear axle works fine, but it does put more load on the chassis.

Coil-overs, when fitted into the OE front subframe, tend to be a little shorter than we would like, limiting the total suspension travel available. - These need to be fitted with stiffer spings to limit the travel so that the shocks don't top/bottom out all the time. That combination does not lend itself to a 'smoother' ride. Most 'drop' springs have the same trouble, they are stiffer than the OE, or the same rate. I would try the Jeep coil in the rear, and the spec'd cut truck spring up front. (I know the numbers are in the thread, monster that it is, I'd look them up for you but I am out of the shop today - maybe someone else can help here) From where your at shocks will make all the difference. I'd go Bilstien, RideTech HQ, or Viking DA.
Our shock relocation kit will NOT handle a coil over. But, we are working on a trailing arm/coil-over/C-notch package that will be available in jan/feb '16.

Thanks Rob, handling with the NLE gear is making me think about installing my buddy buckets so I can get some 4 point belts in there

This truck will be a canyon carver NOT a race truck.

I don't mind the ride but I'm going to change a couple of things here soon.

1) replace the front -2" spring for a -1" spring ( for a 3/5 total drop)
2) add Ridetech HQ shocks on all four corners
3) dump the factory style rear axle bump stops & install these killer progressive bumpers from Energy suspension

http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/9.9109

I'm quickly approaching the need for an entire aftermarket chassis set-up....

[jlsanborn]

Originally Posted by Bowtiguy

Thanks Rob, handling with the NLE gear is making me think about installing my buddy buckets so I can get some 4 point belts in there

This truck will be a canyon carver NOT a race truck.

I don't mind the ride but I'm going to change a couple of things here soon.

1) replace the front -2" spring for a -1" spring ( for a 3/5 total drop)
2) add Ridetech HQ shocks on all four corners
3) dump the factory style rear axle bump stops & install these killer progressive bumpers from Energy suspension

http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/9.9109

I'm quickly approaching the need for an entire aftermarket chassis set-up....

Install pics of the bump stops?