a few questions...

[ccautoupholstery]

So I'm making progress but stuck on a few things. In the first pic do I remove this part and install my oil pressure line in the port it is in? In the second pic I don't know where the vacuum lines need to go after they stop. And in the 3rd, I have my white and blue wires figured out for the new alternator wiring and I know I just extend the thick red wire that goes to the post on the alternator but does the black wire go to the post as well for the ammeter?

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by ccautoupholstery

So I'm making progress but stuck on a few things. In the first pic do I remove this part and install my oil pressure line in the port it is in? In the second pic I don't know where the vacuum lines need to go after they stop. And in the 3rd, I have my white and blue wires figured out for the new alternator wiring and I know I just extend the thick red wire that goes to the post on the alternator but does the black wire go to the post as well for the ammeter?

Yes, that would be an electric oil pressure sender. Remove it and install an 1/8" NPT adapter for your line.

Can't really help on the vac lines. I would guess for the PCV system. May have went to the valve covers.

Not sure about the black wire either....

LockDoc

[Gromit]

Re the Alternator - assuming you have the same alternator on the motor as you originally disconnected the wiring from - The Blue and White plastic plug should go the two-prong receptacle on the rear of the alternator - mine has the blue inboard and the white in the outboard position of that center receptacle. Then the black wire goes on the terminal closest to the engine on mine - often times if you look at the back of the alternator the terminals will have black and red plastic disks behind the terminals to show which is which (red to red; black to black. Plus to Plus; Negative to Negative..

Re the oil pressure sender - mine is an 1970 SBC 350 and I do not have the device you are pointing to. I have capillary type 1/16th Inside Diameter (1/8" Outside diameter) steel tube mounted at about that location on the block (but other side of the distributor) with the other end of the tube going to the oil pressure gauge. Mine is a gauges truck..

Someone will chime in here I hope but maybe that electric sender you have is either for the "Idiot Light" or for an aftermarket electric or electronic oil pressure gauge.

If it is for a gauge I'd consider keeping it. I have wondered what would happen if the part of my oil pressure capillary tube that sits right above by legs when I'm driving 75 mph suddenly started spraying hot oil over me...Wouldn't 20 or 30 psi through that little tube be like a super soaker?.. so in other words there could be advantages to the electric gauge - namely I think that you would just have wires coming into your cab rather than a live pressurized oil line.

As far as the PCV valve hose setup I can't tell from the photo but I do know if you look on this site at Bruce's "It's Just a Pickup" C10 build - he wrote a very complete description of how that system works and some suggestions for the setup.

[midniteblues]

The black wire usually goes to a smaller stud on the back of the alt. Sometimes it may have a screw holding it too thr back of the at. It does Not screw on with the red wire.

Like lock doc said remove that oil sending unit and screw your line into it.
You can see the oil line fitting too the lower left of your hand in the one pic. Be careful not too kink that line since it was a 6cly truck it will be longer than nessacary .

Not sure on that vac line it looks to be a power brake vac line but on the wrong side of the engine.
Your truck should only need two vac lines. transmission vac line should be plugged in between the carb and distributer

And the line for vac advance. distributer can too carb.
Oh if ya wanna count the pcv.carb to valve cover.

[ccautoupholstery]

Originally Posted by midniteblues

The black wire usually goes to a smaller stud on the back of the alt. Sometimes it may have a screw holding it too thr back of the at. It does Not screw on with the red wire.

Like lock doc said remove that oil sending unit and screw your line into it.
You can see the oil line fitting too the lower left of your hand in the one pic. Be careful not too kink that line since it was a 6cly truck it will be longer than nessacary .

Not sure on that vac line it looks to be a power brake vac line but on the wrong side of the engine.
Your truck should only need two vac lines. transmission vac line should be plugged in between the carb and distributer

And the line for vac advance. distributer can too carb.
Oh if ya wanna count the pcv.carb to valve cover.

My alternator only has one stud on the back and the connector has 2 wires. Sorry for the people that didn't know, I replaced the original inline 6 with a v8 and at trans. So with the excess on the oil line do I just put a couple more loops in like the existing ones to eat up excess? And I bet you are right about the power brake vac line. So just cap it? Do I need to charcoal canister from the camaro I pulled motor out of and if so how should I hook it up? Sorry for the million questions...on the bright side I'm hoping to start her up within the next few days, weather permitting

[midniteblues]

yhea your gettin close to finally startin it.

ok on the oil line. it may have a union(a nut that connects two halves of the line together) closer to the firewall. if it does i would suggest makin a new line from there too the port(the thing your gonna remove).

you could coil the line up to shorten it but if you kink it the guage wont work and the line could possibly leak.

on the back of the alt there is either another stud or a threaded hole. the black wire goes there. its just a ground but you need it.

do a search on "heater hose connections" and it will show the the correct way too connect your hoses.


that line is /was for power brakes it can be pulled and plugged

[Gromit]

I found a photo of that union that midniteblues wrote about - also you can kind of see the alternator wiring in the foreground and the union he mentioned in the background... (sorry I don't have a working digital camera at the moment so this old photo is all I have)

(Attached photo)

If you do end up using the capillary type metal oil pressure line from the block to the dash gauge - the previous owner of my current truck had the existing tubing all wackily bent in every which way all over the engine bay - and I found that I could wind even that 40 year old metal tube into an almost perfect spiral with careful tension around a steel 1-3/4" or 1-7/8" diameter round galvanized fencepost set in my bench vise.. so by doing this it cleaned up all those funky kinks in the gauge tube ... you have to pull on the 1/8" tubing quite a bit as you wind it around the tube..

Then slide your newly wound coil of tubing off the "fencepost" tubing and you have a nice coil which you can expand or contract vertically as necessary to clear your spark plug wires or trans kickdown cable; etc..

So just a thought - it worked well for me..

[Gromit]

Also I just noticed that the (cad plated?) metal fitting on the black wire of the alternator in the photo I sent is improperly installed in my photo - the flat part of that fitting should fit into a slot in the alternator near the stud for the wire; not forced over the top of the alternator casting as it is in the photo... (gotta be careful on this site - these guys and gals will notice EVERYTHING!)

[ccautoupholstery]

Originally Posted by LockDoc

Yes, that would be an electric oil pressure sender. Remove it and install an 1/8" NPT adapter for your line.

Can't really help on the vac lines. I would guess for the PCV system. May have went to the valve covers.

Not sure about the black wire either....

LockDoc

An 1/8" NPT looks to be too big?