The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network







Register or Log In To remove these advertisements.

Go Back   The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network > 47 - Current classic GM Trucks > The 1967 - 1972 Chevrolet & GMC Pickups Message Board

Web 67-72chevytrucks.com


Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 02-25-2004, 02:24 PM   #1
FirstGen
Just Don't Stop!
 
FirstGen's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Dallas
Posts: 1,239
carrier bearing difficulty? re-balance?

Just got a quote back from a good mechanic here in town and I am trying to differenciate between what I want to tackle on my own and what I should have him do. Poor boys like me

One thing he listed is that my carrier bearing and U-joints need to be replaced (LWB). I'm sure this is true.

How difficult is it to replace the carrier bearing I haven't even looked at it? He has also listed to rebalance the driveshaft along with the new bearing??? Is that nessary, wouldn't think so?

Thanks in advance
__________________
1968 C10 build in process
TT LSA/6L90e/9"
FirstGen is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-25-2004, 03:24 PM   #2
COBALT
Senior Member
 
COBALT's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Seattle, WA, USA
Posts: 5,817
Depends on your setup. If you have an automatic with the smaller tear-drop shaped bearing it's not that hard. The process is different if you have a manual with the heavier U shaped bearing that connects to the frame.

I replaced my bearing and U-joints all at the same time. If you decide to do it and need help I can help you. FYI: it shouldn't take a mechanic longer than a couple of hours to do that work. Parts include a bearing and 3 u-joints. Bearing is about $15-30, U-joints are $15-25, so max about $100 in parts, and two hours labor should be total $250-300. Cheaper to do it yourself.

Oh, and you only need to rebalance the driveline if it's already out of balance, or you take it out of the truck without marking the yokes and how they're oriented. It won't hurt to balance it anyway, but you may not need to spend the money...
__________________
'69 3/4 ton C20 2wd-350ci/TH400
'69 3/4 ton Custom 20 2wd-350ci/4sp Manual
'99 2wd 5.7 Chevy Tahoe
Seattle, WA.

Last edited by COBALT; 02-25-2004 at 03:27 PM.
COBALT is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-25-2004, 06:56 PM   #3
krazy_texan
Registered User
 
krazy_texan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: West Des Moines, Ia
Posts: 3,233
i was told that you dont need to have your driveshaft balanced unless you intend on turning more than 7500 rpms and that most manufacturers did not start balancing them until the late 60s early 70s
__________________
Krazy Texan
My Trucks are made with Wrenches not Chop Sticks
1967 GMC 3/4 ton "Johnny Cash"
1990 v1500 suburban
1967 Ford f100 Swb 4x4 "green bean"


GOD BLESS JESUS, JOHN WAYNE, AND THE ALAMO
krazy_texan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-25-2004, 07:48 PM   #4
sixty8c10
MY EX DRIVES A BROOM
 
sixty8c10's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Herington, KS
Posts: 869
i'm with krazy_texan
good luck
__________________
They say nobody's perfect.
I'm a nobody, so I must be perfect.

Building Nemo -1968 C10 Long Bed

FRED -1947 KB-2 International
sixty8c10 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-25-2004, 07:57 PM   #5
superchevy
Got big-block?
 
superchevy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: Austin, Texas
Posts: 2,453
I just got a quote from Driveshaft King in Dallas to replace the 3 u-joints and carrier bearing in my '93, then balance everything. I told them I would pull the shaft myself and bring it to them. Price?
$165.
SC
superchevy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-25-2004, 11:14 PM   #6
jlget
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Brazoria County, Texas
Posts: 38
carrier bearing

I just got my driveline back in about an hour ago. I replaced the center carrier, had the rear section of the driveshaft replaced, changed the rear seal and bushing in the transmission, and installed a new yoke (flange) on the rear end.

Driveshaft repair $80.00
Center Carrier $20.00
Yoke $71.00
Bushing and Seal $17.00

Drove it out after putting it all back together and runs smooth. Many thanks to those board members that helped with advice.

Jim
__________________
'72 Super Cheyenne
'78 Bonanza A36
'00 Cadillac DHS
'04 Chevy Avalanche
jlget is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-25-2004, 11:57 PM   #7
ChevLoRay
Old Skool Club
 
ChevLoRay's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Benton, AR "The Heart of Arkansas"
Posts: 10,880
Rebalance????

As many U-joints as I have changed I have never had to rebalance a drive shaft. Before I had any real experience, I had a '64 Pontiac Bonneville. I replaced both ujoints, and it had an unbelievable vibration. I carried it around to several garages and machine shops, but to no avail. I took it to a NAPA store machine shop. The mechanic took the shaft, laid it on a vise and whacked each side of the yoke on the shaft. At that point in time, the u-joints began to flop and the vibration was gone when it was reinstalled.

Sometimes, the stress of pressing the u-joint into postion can cause a binding of the part. When that happens, you have to relieve it. Whacking it (the yoke) with a hammer will relieve the stress and let the joint flop. If it is too tight, it may cause a driveline vibration. This is something you have to learn with experience. When you see what I'm talking about, you'll know it. But, if the shaft was not vibrating before you pulled it due to an out-of-balance condition, installing new u-joints will not make it become balanced or unbalanced.

Look at the shaft....you'll see weights attached to it, somewhere along the length of the shaft. Manufacturers have been balancing drive shafts for many, many years.

If you plan on running your engine at 7500 RPM's, you may want to think about a driveshaft safety loop....if you're worried about it.
__________________
Member Nr. 2770

'96 GMC Sportside; 4.3/SLT - Daily driven....constantly needs washed.

'69 C-10 SWB; 350/TH400 - in limbo

The older I get, the better I was.
ChevLoRay is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-26-2004, 12:16 AM   #8
FirstGen
Just Don't Stop!
 
FirstGen's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Dallas
Posts: 1,239
Thanks guys, not sure if it was fine before or not. I bought the truck not running and I'm trying to cover all basis before using it as my daily driver.....
__________________
1968 C10 build in process
TT LSA/6L90e/9"
FirstGen is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-26-2004, 12:21 AM   #9
jorgensensc
Registered User
 
jorgensensc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Cypress, Tx
Posts: 4,005
If you replace the u-joints when working with a 2 piece driveshaft you can accidentaly reverse the two sides, in essence getting them 180 degrees out of phase. This will cause a vibration. Try rotating one driveshaft 180 degrees, then reinstalling it. Hope this helps.
Shawn
__________________
1972 C20 Suburban- Big Blue Betty
'56 Chevy Bel Air Sedan- Frame up Restoration

-What would you attempt to achieve if you knew you could not fail?-

-I Refuse To Tiptoe Through Life, Only To Arrive Safely At Death's Door-

R.I.P. EAST SIDE LOW LIFE
jorgensensc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-26-2004, 01:23 AM   #10
superchevy
Got big-block?
 
superchevy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: Austin, Texas
Posts: 2,453
To each his own...I'm going to have the shaft out...new joints, bearing...I think I'll spring for the $10 to have the balance verified...it's not THAT big a deal.
SC
superchevy is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 01:22 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Copyright 1997-2022 67-72chevytrucks.com