Switched Ignition wire

[sgr60]

I need a switched ignition source up by the drivers side firewall in the engine compartment. I'm looking at the wiring diagrams now, but if anyone has a source they typically use and can let me know, that would be great.

Thanks!

[sgr60]

Maybe the pink wire feeding the distributor?

[mcmlxix]

I need a key-on switched power feed in my engine bay as well. Any updates? Suggestions.... PICTURES?

[chrismoore701]

I have a painless harness installed, so I had some open wires I could use. I used the power wire to my fuel pump. Just check your fuse block and see what powers up on key

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=685572

[68Timber]

Originally Posted by Chaplain

I have fresh knowledge of this issue as I am currently cleaning up my fuse block and repening my gauge cluster. Not sure what year your truck is or whether or not you're using an aftermarket wiring harness but in my 79 there are three IGN spots on the left sided of my fuse block. These are triggered by the ignition.

Hope that helps.

I was searching for a good source of switched hot for some aftermarket gauges I'm installing and found this thread, my 85 has the same three IGN spots on the left side. I'd like to connect here and run an inline blade fuse but what's the ideal way to connect? I'm guessing I need to take it off the firewall and connect to the backside?

[powerdriver 1958]

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=230536

[68Timber]

I have those, just curious about the proper way to make a permanent connection. I can put a male terminal on the end of the wire and push it into the clip in one of the IGN spots, but that seems hokey.

[ray_mcavoy]

This is the type of connector GM used to factory wire accessories that plug into the "IGN" receptacles on the 78+ fuse boxes.



They plug in to the front of the fuse box. And unlike a generic male blade terminal, the connector's plastic shell has a latch to hold it securely in place.

Here's one source for them --> http://www.repairconnector.com/gm-ig...ock-tap-clear/

[rich weyand]

I just use generic female blade terminals. Done.

[68Timber]

Originally Posted by ray_mcavoy

This is the type of connector GM used to factory wire accessories that plug into the "IGN" receptacles on the 78+ fuse boxes.



They plug in to the front of the fuse box. And unlike a generic male blade terminal, the connector's plastic shell has a latch to hold it securely in place.

Here's one source for them --> http://www.repairconnector.com/gm-ig...ock-tap-clear/

Thank you sir, that was exactly what I needed to know. I ordered a small handful of them.

[ray_mcavoy]

Originally Posted by BRUISER

Thank you sir, that was exactly what I needed to know. I ordered a small handful of them.

You're welcome!

I should probably mention that those connectors are keyed so they will only plug into the "IGN" receptacles. If you need to plug into other receptacles on the fuse box, there are similar looking connectors specifically keyed for them as well. For example, here's the one that plugs into the "BAT" receptacle for constant power --> http://www.repairconnector.com/gm-fu...wer-always-on/

[68Timber]

Originally Posted by ray_mcavoy

You're welcome!

I should probably mention that those connectors are keyed so they will only plug into the "IGN" receptacles. If you need to plug into other receptacles on the fuse box, there are similar looking connectors specifically keyed for them as well. For example, here's the one that plugs into the "BAT" receptacle for constant power --> http://www.repairconnector.com/gm-fu...wer-always-on/

Would the BAT receptacle be good for running power to, say, four USB charging terminals? Or would you go straight to the battery? I think most cell phone chargers are around .5 amps, so I'm thinking it'd be OK to run them on one circuit.

[ray_mcavoy]

Originally Posted by BRUISER

Would the BAT receptacle be good for running power to, say, four USB charging terminals? Or would you go straight to the battery? I think most cell phone chargers are around .5 amps, so I'm thinking it'd be OK to run them on one circuit.

Yes, that should be okay to hook up to the BAT receptacle.

The BAT receptacles are protected by the 20A "HORN / DOME" fuse. I believe many years have the cigarette lighter wired to this circuit as well. And the optional clock or digital stereo (if equipped) is also plugged into the BAT receptacle. So just keep in mind these other loads that may already be on this circuit when you consider adding more.

[68Timber]

Originally Posted by ray_mcavoy

Yes, that should be okay to hook up to the BAT receptacle.

The BAT receptacles are protected by the 20A "HORN / DOME" fuse. I believe many years have the cigarette lighter wired to this circuit as well. And the optional clock or digital stereo (if equipped) is also plugged into the BAT receptacle. So just keep in mind these other loads that may already be on this circuit when you consider adding more.

That is good news. This is on my CUCV, so it doesn't have a dome light. At least not yet, it needs one. On the horn circuit I added the four Caddy ACDF horns but added a relay next to them when I did. So I should be good adding a few chargers there.

Originally Posted by Chaplain

Bro. Ray to the rescue.

No doubt!

[mcmlxix]

I see all the info is pointing to sources in the cab of the truck. But is there any switched power already in the engine bay besides the HEI?

[rich weyand]

Originally Posted by mcmlxix

I see all the info is pointing to sources in the cab of the truck. But is there any switched power already in the engine bay besides the HEI?

The YEL/BLK wires on the wiper motor and washer solenoid should be hot with the ignition.

[gmachinz]

At the firewall bulkhead you can also tap into your (for 1981-up anyway) pink w/blk stripe 14ga wire. This is the switched 12V source to one side of your oil pressure switch for the electric choke.

[48cj2a]

Originally Posted by BRUISER

I have those, just curious about the proper way to make a permanent connection. I can put a male terminal on the end of the wire and push it into the clip in one of the IGN spots, but that seems hokey.

John,

Carefull what you tap in the CUCV and use a meter, not a test light. There are 24v sources in the CUCV fuse block. I'll send you a good CUCV Fuse Block Aid that explains what is controlled by the Ign, B/O and Service Lamp Switchs,