Starting my engine build

[Mrturner1]

No doubt that Performer intake manifold and the Edelbrock 600 were choking power too. I'll see some decent gains with an RPM and the 650 AVS I got

[tcrist]

Originally Posted by Mrturner1

Do you happen to know what gear ratio came stock? And how I can identify my rear end?

You can look on the web on how to identify the rear end just by looking at the cover.

As for the gearing, you would have to remove the cover and count the ring & pinion gears teeth and do the math, sometimes the gear ratio is on the side of the ring gear

Or a simple way to get "close" is to jack the rear drive tire off the ground while the trans is out of park. Mark an identifying line on the drive shaft. Rotate the tire one full revolution while counting the number of times the driveshaft rotates. If the driveshaft rotates just under 3 revolutions then you probably have 273 gears. If it rotates right at or just a hair past 3 revolutions then you probably have 307 gears, ect.

I am sure you get the idea. Either way, count the revolutions and that should get you close.

[Mrturner1]

Can I get the block as clean as it needs to be with a razor and some brake cleaner?

[Mrturner1]

Did some scraping today and got rained out agin. Too bad the barn isn't set up to be a shop yet. I'd get a propane heater and tinker all day rain or not

[Mrturner1]

Tomarrow the for cast says no rain, so I'm hoping to get at least a few hours in. I still have some cleaning to do, I scraped the block surface with a razor blade and wiped it down with a towel and some brake cleaner. I watched a YouTube video and the guy had some kind of wheel on a drill to clean it with. He did the whole block in 3 minutes and it looked much cleaner than mine. Is a drill and wheel dangerous? Anyway, I'm excited to get going on this and even more excited to hear it start up

[tcrist]

Was the engine in the car and the pistons still in it or was it a bare block on a stand?

I have used a wire brushed mine. You just need to cover everything else real good.

In the intake area, just cover it up and then place something to weigh the cover down with so it will not blow all over the place.

Put something in the cylinders the same way. Be real careful when you remove the coverings.

Careful with the wire brush on a drill and what ever you cover everything else up with. The brush will grab it and toss it everywhere.

The best way is with a scraper tool. It is a handle about 10-12 inches long that you can put a single sided box knife blade in it. Gives you better leverage.

Something like this, http://www.harborfreight.com/four-pi...set-94036.html

[toolboxchev]

Originally Posted by Mrturner1

Tomarrow the for cast says no rain, so I'm hoping to get at least a few hours in. I still have some cleaning to do, I scraped the block surface with a razor blade and wiped it down with a towel and some brake cleaner. I watched a YouTube video and the guy had some kind of wheel on a drill to clean it with. He did the whole block in 3 minutes and it looked much cleaner than mine. Is a drill and wheel dangerous? Anyway, I'm excited to get going on this and even more excited to hear it start up

I repeat DO NOT clean the top of the piston deck that way. You will make small valleys in the deck and sometimes the head gasket will not seal. Whom ever you were watching is an failing amateur.

[Mrturner1]

Even if the wheel has something relatively soft on it? If I remember right you said don't use scotch brite either correct? Did you mean at all, or just don't use it on a drill?

[Mrturner1]

Originally Posted by tcrist

Was the engine in the car and the pistons still in it or was it a bare block on a stand?

I have used a wire brushed mine. You just need to cover everything else real good.

In the intake area, just cover it up and then place something to weigh the cover down with so it will not blow all over the place.

Put something in the cylinders the same way. Be real careful when you remove the coverings.

Careful with the wire brush on a drill and what ever you cover everything else up with. The brush will grab it and toss it everywhere.

The best way is with a scraper tool. It is a handle about 10-12 inches long that you can put a single sided box knife blade in it. Gives you better leverage.

Something like this, http://www.harborfreight.com/four-pi...set-94036.html

Didn't think of that, the engine was out and no pistons in it at all

[Mrturner1]

Mmmmmmmm pretty

[Mrturner1]

Originally Posted by GASoline71

Post a pic of the combustion chambers.

Gary

Any idea what's done to them? I almost don't wanna know haha with my luck they've been worked over to make 500 hp lol

[Grumpy old man]

Just a quick note to self , 1 set of dyno runs on what you already had may have saved you a ton of time and $ and could have been used to upgrade the trans and rear diff with bolt on pieces in a weekend to get the most of what you already had ,Even a set of pre breakdown compression tests would have been worth a ton of information .???i'd love to see a comparison of both sets of heads on a flow bench .

http://rehermorrison.com/tech-talk-7...he-flow-bench/

[Mrturner1]

Originally Posted by Grumpy old man

Just a quick note to self , 1 set of dyno runs on what you already had may have saved you a ton of time and $ and could have been used to upgrade the trans and rear diff with bolt on pieces in a weekend to get the most of what you already had ,Even a set of pre breakdown compression tests would have been worth a ton of information .???

A dyno sheet would have been AWESOME to have I know that regardless of what it said about power I would've still tore it down and rebuilt to go faster. But a comparison would've been really cool

[Grumpy old man]

How fast is fast enough ? on stock suspension ? Lap belts ? in a truck with the aerodynamics of a brick ?

[Mrturner1]

Originally Posted by Grumpy old man

How fast is fast enough ? on stock suspension ? Lap belts ? in a truck with the aerodynamics of a brick ?

Well, since you asked, I'd be satisfied with 12 flat in the quarter mile, on street tires, with the potential for 11.7's on steelies with cheap slicks ))

You bring out a good point though, and on my list of things to do is a 2/4 drop with nice new springs and shocks, and sway bars front and rear. As well as 4 wheel, 5 lug power disk brakes, and maybe all new A-arms while I'm in there.

At least then it will be a lowered brick haha

[Mrturner1]

I'm not sure what brand or manufacturer this is but it looks to be real nice, I'm gonna re use it, one less part to buy

[Mrturner1]

All the mating surfaces are clean and wiped down, I pulled the rags out of the cylinders, and it's time to get this thing going and put the cam in. Gotta stop being nervous and just do it. I have the small packet of comp lube, plus a 4 ounce bottle of the same Comp Cam and Lifter lube. Goin for it

[Mrturner1]

Geez that was short lived, broke the cam gear bolt so apparently im buying a bolt getter outter

[Grumpy old man]

That initial $900.00 the engine shop wanted to build it in the begining is starting to look real appealing right about now isn't it ?

[Money_pit]

I'm pretty sure you gotta start somewhere. You'll know how to instal a cam and heads by time your done. And remove broken bolts now too

[toolboxchev]

Originally Posted by Mrturner1

Even if the wheel has something relatively soft on it? If I remember right you said don't use scotch brite either correct? Did you mean at all, or just don't use it on a drill?

A razor blade and some solvent is all I use. Esp. if I know the motor was running before with no head gasket leaks.

[toolboxchev]

Originally Posted by Mrturner1

All the mating surfaces are clean and wiped down, I pulled the rags out of the cylinders, and it's time to get this thing going and put the cam in. Gotta stop being nervous and just do it. I have the small packet of comp lube, plus a 4 ounce bottle of the same Comp Cam and Lifter lube. Goin for it

Follow what Comp Cams says, EoIc, and you will be on your way to a right of passage. hehehe broken bolt, little spooky at first, then once that buggar is out. hehhehe

[swamp rat]

Hey Grumpy, Positive thoughts....

Hey Mr Turner please tell me you have a couple good torque wrenchs and a torque spec sheet, yes most of us can get away with a ratchet when it comes to valve covers, timing covers and pan gaskets, its pretty critical to have the proper torque on the more important fasteners, i would also suggest using some Loctite on bolts such at the ones that hold on timing gear on the cam. I have 3, a 1/2 drive that go's up to 250 ft lbs, a 1/2 that go's up to 150 ft lbs and a 3/8's drive that can torque smaller bolts like 1/4" bolts, i prefer an inch lb and then do the math to convert to ft lbs over one that reads smaller ft lb readings as i feel they are lore accurate.

Here's a chart for example: 1/4-20 UNC grade 5 bolt calls out 6 ft lbs, using an inch lb torque wrench (6X12-72) its 72 inch lbs.

http://www.mpi-online.com/technical/torquechart.htm

[Mrturner1]

Originally Posted by Grumpy old man

That initial $900.00 the engine shop wanted to build it in the begining is starting to look real appealing right about now isn't it ?

The 900 was just to install the heads, and didn't include tuning or anything. For heads/cam/tune properly they wanted 2800 bucks. I'm happier doing it myself too, I'm learning a lot and getting more for my money

[Mrturner1]

Originally Posted by swamp rat

Hey Grumpy, Positive thoughts....

Hey Mr Turner please tell me you have a couple good torque wrenchs and a torque spec sheet, yes most of us can get away with a ratchet when it comes to valve covers, timing covers and pan gaskets, its pretty critical to have the proper torque on the more important fasteners, i would also suggest using some Loctite on bolts such at the ones that hold on timing gear on the cam. I have 3, a 1/2 drive that go's up to 250 ft lbs, a 1/2 that go's up to 150 ft lbs and a 3/8's drive that can torque smaller bolts like 1/4" bolts, i prefer an inch lb and then do the math to convert to ft lbs over one that reads smaller ft lb readings as i feel they are lore accurate.

Here's a chart for example: 1/4-20 UNC grade 5 bolt calls out 6 ft lbs, using an inch lb torque wrench (6X12-72) its 72 inch lbs.

http://www.mpi-online.com/technical/torquechart.htm

I got a pretty nice Torque wrench that goes from 25-250lbs, and a torque chart It said 20lbs for the cam gear bolts, and my wrench only goes down to 25lbs, so I was over tightening out of fear something might happen had they been too loose haha I'll get new bolts in the morning and be rockin and Rollin by 9am.