Bolt on mustang ii

[67GMCkid]

The spring rate is 325 -1 meaning the spring is going compress 1" for every 325 lbs placed on them.. Continue putting your hubs and wheels on and then let the truck down and watch how the geometry and clearances change.

[northern 49]

Originally Posted by 67GMCkid

The spring rate is 325 -1 meaning the spring is going compress 1" for every 325 lbs placed on them.. Continue putting your hubs and wheels on and then let the truck down and watch how the geometry and clearances change.

I was thinking the same kind of thing. You have to remember that when everything thing is put back together and all the weight is back on the suspension your lower control arms should be parallel to the ground. That should free things up a bit. Right now your springs are pushing the arms to the bottom of their range of motion and once the truck is back on the ground the arms will rarely extend that far again unless you jack it up or you are out pretending you are one of the Duke boys. And some of these springs do require trimming to achieve final ride height once they have been given a chance to settle for a few miles.

[oldman3]

Originally Posted by northern 49

I was thinking the same kind of thing. You have to remember that when everything thing is put back together and all the weight is back on the suspension your lower control arms should be parallel to the ground. That should free things up a bit. Right now your springs are pushing the arms to the bottom of their range of motion and once the truck is back on the ground the arms will rarely extend that far again unless you jack it up or you are out pretending you are one of the Duke boys. And some of these springs do require trimming to achieve final ride height once they have been given a chance to settle for a few miles.

I would say 98 % of you problems will go away when you have full weight on the front suspension. Your lower control arm should be parallel with the bottom of crossmember. Top arm should be above the top hat, this will change the angle of the arm, ball joint and spindle. I don't have access to pictures now to show what I'm talking about. If you go to my build thread and back about 4 pages from last page I switch over to coil over and the pictures there might help...Jim

[mobileortho]

Originally Posted by oldman3

I would say 98 % of you problems will go away when you have full weight on the front suspension. Your lower control arm should be parallel with the bottom of crossmember. Jim

That did it! Problem solved! Thanks everyone for the tips! Feeling much better about the swap! Got a chance to mount the engine. Everything had to be moved forward roughly two inches, definitely gotta find a longer drive shaft. Also eyeballed the power rack, looks like I may have to notch or grind a bit off the crossmember to get it to fit.