Circuit Rider Tornado Damage Update & Hagerty Update

[70cst]

I met with the Hagerty Insurance Adjuster this morning & it couldn't have gone smoother.

He took pictures and did the preliminary estimate - he said it looks to be up to $18,000 in repairs. WOW

He also suggested I go to the "The Egyptian Body Shop" as they do work that the average Dealership cannot. Since I have no rust or bondo - he wants the dents to be pounded out and lead be used in the repairs.

Next step is to meet with Don Boeke - the owner

The Egyptian Body Shop

http://egyptianbody.com/custom-body-work/

[special-K]

Sounds like things are moving in a good direction. Glad to hear it.

[70cst]

Cool Body Shop

[flashed]

Glad you are being treated well by Hagerty but Im not surprised ,they were great to me ,and that is a cool bodyshop .

[lolife99]

Originally Posted by 70cst

He also suggested I go to the "The Egyptian Body Shop" as they do work that the average Dealership cannot. Since I have no rust or bondo - he wants the dents to be pounded out and lead be used in the repairs.

Lead. Really?
Automotive fillers have come a long way.
Are you sure you want to subject your sheetmetal to the heat source from installing lead?

From the web:
Lead is the original filler. It is a non-ferrous metal (i.e. won’t rust and a magnet will not stick to it) that melts at a low temperature and relatively (compared to other metals) easy to work. It’s advantages are: when the paint is removed from a car, one cannot tell whether the repair was done at the factory, before 1970, or by someone who used original materials. For some, it comes with bragging rights, "my car has no Bondo, only lead." The disadvantages of lead are: it work hardens as the car vibrates and becomes brittle over time; it is less flexible and has less adhesion than modern polyester fillers; it is more expensive; it is more difficult to work than modern fillers; and, the fumes it puts off while being applied are toxic. Personally, I see no reason to use lead, other than someone wants to be original and recognizes that the repair will be more expensive and less durable than one done with modern materials. Unless you are painting your car in lacquer for originality sake you should really not be using lead.

[70cst]

Originally Posted by lolife99

Lead. Really?
Automotive fillers have come a long way.
Are you sure you want to subject your sheetmetal to the heat source from installing lead?

From the web:
Lead is the original filler. It is a non-ferrous metal (i.e. won’t rust and a magnet will not stick to it) that melts at a low temperature and relatively (compared to other metals) easy to work. It’s advantages are: when the paint is removed from a car, one cannot tell whether the repair was done at the factory, before 1970, or by someone who used original materials. For some, it comes with bragging rights, "my car has no Bondo, only lead." The disadvantages of lead are: it work hardens as the car vibrates and becomes brittle over time; it is less flexible and has less adhesion than modern polyester fillers; it is more expensive; it is more difficult to work than modern fillers; and, the fumes it puts off while being applied are toxic. Personally, I see no reason to use lead, other than someone wants to be original and recognizes that the repair will be more expensive and less durable than one done with modern materials. Unless you are painting your car in lacquer for originality sake you should really not be using lead.

I am using the term the adjuster uses - its possible its lead plus other compounds ... I looked at the work this place does and its impressive - This Body Shop under normal circumstances would be out of my price range - In this case I will go with Hagerty as far as where to go and the type of repair - they are spending a good
bit of money and they will warranty the work. But - I will ask. Good info. Thanks

[mcbassin]

It sounds like Hagerty is treating you right with the estimate. I would see if they use any of the latest body fillers like Evercoat Rage Extreme or similar. I have had outstanding results on a few paint jobs I've done.
With the metal work done proper, you will have VERY minimal filler used. As long as they use premium products, your paint work will last a long long time maybe a few decades isn't unreasonable.

[70cst]

Originally Posted by mcbassin

It sounds like Hagerty is treating you right with the estimate. I would see if they use any of the latest body fillers like Evercoat Rage Extreme or similar. I have had outstanding results on a few paint jobs I've done.
With the metal work done proper, you will have VERY minimal filler used. As long as they use premium products, your paint work will last a long long time maybe a few decades isn't unreasonable.

Thanks

[special-K]

We have "The Greek" (Creative Colors) around here . I would expect that's a quality shop that does quality work using quality materials. Probably 2nd going on 3rd generation. With Haggerty suggesting it, it's your best bet and no reason to doubt. It's good to know they were willing to spend that much. I think classic will go beyond the dollar parameters used on regular ins. Could be wrong

[70cst]

Update ...

I spoke with Hagerty and they said that I could purchase replacemment parts from any supplier -- of my choice. Since 90% of the parts used in my restoration came from Wes - I will continue to use Wes (Classic Heartbeat).

The parts I purchase off these forums - I just need to get an email listing parts, price, and person.

Hagerty continues to be very easy to work with.

[Sicklajoie]

I'm glad things are headed in the right direction for you.

[Spartan]

Originally Posted by 70cst

Update ...

I spoke with Hagerty and they said that I could purchase replacemment parts from any supplier -- of my choice. Since 90% of the parts used in my restoration came from Wes - I will continue to use Wes (Classic Heartbeat).

The parts I purchase off these forums - I just need to get an email listing parts, price, and person.

Hagerty continues to be very easy to work with.

We used lead on the porches way back when. We still use it (a blend of sorts) in architectural sheet metal work. All metals work harden. I wouldn't have any worries about it. New materials are just as toxic just in different ways but once the paint is on...
Glad to read your being treated well and the circuit rider will have a tale to tell.
Posted via Mobile Device

[JHT67]

Get that beauty fixed up and back to the mill for storage.

[70cst]

Originally Posted by JHT67

Get that beauty fixed up and back to the mill for storage.

Once I get her fixed up - I am putting her on the road - Its time I let her run wild sort of speak

[rsgt]

The Egyptian Body Shop sounds like a high quality shop. Ultra high end shops around the world use lead for body work.

[70cst]

Originally Posted by rsgt

The Egyptian Body Shop sounds like a high quality shop. Ultra high end shops around the world use lead for body work.

Here is their LINK

http://egyptianbody.com/

[PAWS 72]

Glad everything is going good for you and the circuit rider. Glad no more damage than was is there.

By the way I love the truck.

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by lolife99

Lead. Really?
Automotive fillers have come a long way.
Are you sure you want to subject your sheetmetal to the heat source from installing lead?

From the web:
Lead is the original filler. It is a non-ferrous metal (i.e. won’t rust and a magnet will not stick to it) that melts at a low temperature and relatively (compared to other metals) easy to work. It’s advantages are: when the paint is removed from a car, one cannot tell whether the repair was done at the factory, before 1970, or by someone who used original materials. For some, it comes with bragging rights, "my car has no Bondo, only lead." The disadvantages of lead are: it work hardens as the car vibrates and becomes brittle over time; it is less flexible and has less adhesion than modern polyester fillers; it is more expensive; it is more difficult to work than modern fillers; and, the fumes it puts off while being applied are toxic. Personally, I see no reason to use lead, other than someone wants to be original and recognizes that the repair will be more expensive and less durable than one done with modern materials. Unless you are painting your car in lacquer for originality sake you should really not be using lead.

Keith,

All of the filler used on my '36 Ford was lead. That was back in 1962 when I originally built the car. I have had no problems with cracking or adhesion in the 50 years the lead has been on the car. It has been driven a lot because for quite a few years it was the only car I owned. I will say this, the metal in that car is twice as thick as the metal in our trucks, so I'm sure that would make a difference. When we re-did the car in 2012 we left a lot of the lead alone because it was still in good shape.

LockDoc

[70cst]

Originally Posted by LockDoc

Keith,

All of the filler used on my '36 Ford was lead. That was back in 1962 when I originally built the car. I have had no problems with cracking or adhesion in the 50 years the lead has been on the car. It has been driven a lot because for quite a few years it was the only car I owned. I will say this, the metal in that car is twice as thick as the metal in our trucks, so I'm sure that would make a difference. When we re-did the car in 2012 we left a lot of the lead alone because it was still in good shape.

LockDoc

Thanks for the info Leon and Keith ... I know very little about metal repair but this body shop is a preferred shop for Hagerty Insurance - that gives me confidence.

[GASoline71]

Very very cool! Glad to see the truck will be in good hands!

Your truck is almost an exact copy of the truck my dad bought in 1973. He still has it. 1970 CST. Even has the same mirrors. Main differences are same dark green color with no two-tone top, and a SBC with a Richmond T-10 4-speed.

So naturally, your truck is one of my favorites on the board.

Gary