Customer bought online tube ss brake line kit and fuel lines...

[SnapOnBodytech87]

So I'm restoring a 1970 gmc c10 for a guy. It has a 400 motor, turbo 400 trans, 2wd lwb with a wood floor. It originally was on a 3/4 frame, but he got a 1/2 frame with trailing arms. It's all blasted and painted and it's up to me to reassemble. It was mostlytorn apart when I got it, so I don't know where everything goes. All the suspension type things I can handle fine but the brake lines that he bought and the fuel lines don't make sense to me. Personally I think it's the wrong brake line kit and I think I'm missing at least one fuel line probably a return line. The frame has disk brakes on the front with the brackets for the flex hose to join to the hard line on the front side of the engine cross member. So keeping in mind the frame I'm trying to build is not the original one for the body here are my questions.

How many peices some in the stainless kit for lmc(packaged as inline tube)?
I looked up some pictures of original lines and how they are run and there is cross over 3/16 line going underneath the motor mount brackets, my kit doesn't have those.
The 3/16 lines that run along the engine cross member don't seem to line up to anything at all. The line coming from there rear is at least 2 ft too short. I double check the part number in the catouloge and they match the box they came in. Has anyone had any of these problems? Should I just get some stainless line and make my own? Is it a packaging error? Did I get a kit for a truck with front drums? Or a short box?
Which proportioning valve do I need? And unions and t's?
Also should this truck have more than one fuel line? I have a 3/8 2 peice line but have no idea how it runs, which end is which, and if there is a return line, it is listed for the truck?
It's driving me nuts, I'm trying to do this part quickly for the guy but just ended up wasting a while night staring at it!! Please help, could some one post as detailed picsof the brake lines, proportioning valve and fuel line for this year and possibly motor? Please it's stressing me out lol 😁

[snipescastle2]

I too, bought mine through LMC, the contours of the bends were all wrong for the cross over tube that goes to the right front wheel, the lines from the master cylinder that tie into the chassis lines don't line up with the "T" fittings, I finally got me some 3/16" and 1/4" brake line, and made my own lines from the master cylinder down. I'm glad I have not bled my brakes yet, what a mess that would have been. in hindsight, I should have just ordered from inline tube and been done with it....I feel your pain
Ben

[LockDoc]

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It sounds like you inherited a real can of worms. It's hard enough mixing and matching parts and years if you know a lot about these trucks, let alone not being familiar with them. You would be better off making the brake lines from scratch. Check into NiCopp tubing, it wont rust and is easy to bend. (you can bend it by hand)

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from...ubing&_sacat=0

If you buy it on eBay check prices and be sure and check the sellers feedback. Prices are all over the place for the same stuff and some sellers have it listed as 25" instead of 25'. Click on the link and read the actual ad. Also make sure it has free or reasonable shipping.

I think you have a brake line set for a short bed truck, and possibly the wrong year.

As far as the fuel line, if he isn't going to use the emissions stuff you don't need a return line. Just cap it off at the tank and use a vented gas cap....

Wow, I just broke the 14,000 post barrier..... I need to get a life..

LockDoc

[jeh]

I went through the same thing on mine, the rear lines from drum to drum worked perfect, and even the "T" up and along the frame. As far as the front lines nothing made sense, the master cylinder lines didn't work out either. I ended up bending new tubing up front. By the way, I ordered mine through LMC and they came in an Inline Tube box.

[snipescastle2]

Mine, I picked up at LMC locally, they were in a clear heat sealed bag, it was all labled, but they didn't fit worth a dam, at least the front cross member lines.
Ben

[davepl]

I bought bulk line and a front kit. If I had it to do over again, I'd buy it all as bulk line. Unless and until the "CNC Bending" is reality and things fit like they did from the factory jig.

My problem was being a 3/4 ton. Maybe the 1/2 ton stuff is spot-on.

I had nothing but grief with Inline Tube. Six weeks waiting for a quote gently reminding them. Finally they told me just to buy what LMC had. Which is made by them anyway...

[waco]

If you can, check & see if the guy ordered a kit for 3/4 ton to put on a 1/2 ton chassis, they are different.
Andy

[TexasLS1]

I ordered the front set only from Inline Tube for my '72 Chevy C10 SWB. My truck has disk front brakes. It came with 7 lines (2 MC to Prop Valve, 2 from Prop Valve to T fittings on rear of K member, 1 short piece for driver side from T to rubber brake hose, 1 from T to pass side, 1 from T to pass side frame fitting to lead to rears). The bends were correct in all pieces, though I did have to massage slightly to get everything to mate up - nothing too crazy though. It was a pain installing everything, but my truck is not torn down to the frame.

I can get some decent pics for you (I'll try to get them tonight), but I believe the routing is different in a '70? On mine, the lines at the front outer ends (that connect to the rubber hose from the caliper) run from behind the K member, then up and over the K member toward the front of the truck (under the motor mount brackets), then turn outward toward the wheel (so the rubber hose attaches to the steel line on the front of the K member). I believe the older models are routed on the back of the k member/control arms. Maybe someone can confirm this for me....

[70cst]

Originally Posted by LockDoc

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It sounds like you inherited a real can of worms. It's hard enough mixing and matching parts and years if you know a lot about these trucks, let alone not being familiar with them. You would be better off making the brake lines from scratch. Check into NiCopp tubing, it wont rust and is easy to bend. (you can bend it by hand)

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from...ubing&_sacat=0

If you buy it on eBay check prices and be sure and check the sellers feedback. Prices are all over the place for the same stuff and some sellers have it listed as 25" instead of 25'. Click on the link and read the actual ad. Also make sure it has free or reasonable shipping.

I think you have a brake line set for a short bed truck, and possibly the wrong year.

As far as the fuel line, if he isn't going to use the emissions stuff you don't need a return line. Just cap it off at the tank and use a vented gas cap....

Wow, I just broke the 14,000 post barrier..... I need to get a life..

LockDoc

Great info - Thanks

[SnapOnBodytech87]

Well I got some new information the other day the body that I'm using is a 71 not a 70. And the frame is a 71 or 72 he thinks. Could this be my problem he ordered brake lines for the wrong year? I called lmc myself and they were very helpful. She said to take pictures of my frame, how the lines I have fit and don't work. I'm also going to run1/4 green tape to show how the lines should run or where I need them to go. Email all the pics and info to her and she would pass it to the techs to tell me what kit I need. According to the research and pics I found of finished frames I need lines for a 71 or 72. Does this make sense? I just hope I can get the right lines in the end!

Also now that I know the body and frame are different years, is there any difference in the two years body wise, mounting the body to the frame, any differences at all? Would be nice to know ahead of time of problems that lie ahead!

[special-K]

The only difference between 70 and 71 should be the drum to disc differences. I can see the tubing from m/c to spindles as having different bends, lengths, etc

[GASoline71]

I installed a SS line kit from Inline Tube into my 1972 GMC C1500 long bed with rear leaf springs. Barring a few tweaks and bends I had to make, it fit very well and I am very happy with the fit and finish.

Fast forward to more recent. I wrecked the truck and bent the 1972 frame pretty bad. So now it is sitting on a 1969 C10 long bed coil sprung frame. I'm using all the 1972 disc brake stuff up front as well. There are differences to how the lines are ran from 1972 disc/drum and leaf springs out back to the 1969 drum/drum and coils in the back. I just have to get creative on how I go about making it all work with the line kit I bought.

It can be done, just gotta think outside the box of only buying parts to simply bolt together. Making sense of mismatched parts can be a pain.

Gary

[davepl]

Nothing a roll of mild steel tubing, some nuts, and a Mastercool hydraulic flaring tool won't fix. That's how I'm doing them all now, except maybe the little circular lines from booster to valve.

And I did stainless, which is a serious bruise in the quad to bend. Mild steel that's coated looks almost as good and bends easy too!

Take the money you save on the kits to buy the tool (it'll take 2 or more projects for it to pay itself back though). I do wish I had a tubing straightener but they're too much $$$ for what you get, though it'd be handy even for the kits that get shipped coiled up.