Sound proofing Doors

[hogfarm]

As I get to the end of my build on my 58 Fleetside,I started thinking about how I am going to put sound proofing in the doors,there is not room to get my hands in the holes.I thought about spray in foam,but what a mess,thought about stuffing figerglass insalation in the door,but I dont want to trap water

[Foot Stomper]

About the only thing I can think of that should be inside your doors anyway is some rust proofing.
Get the kind that waxy and drippy and literally fogs the inside of the door. You can buy a few different brands; they're all good. The product will be clear and make a mess of your floor as you leave the door open for a few days and let it run out the drain holes onto a piece of scrap cardboard.
It'll save your doors but will only give a small to moderate amount of sound proofing.

If your doors were all apart, you could sound proofing adhesive sheets but by the sounds of it, you're too late for that.

[1project2many]

I used undercoating in the doors.

If you were driving the truck without door seals and with rust holes before the repairs it's going to be a night and day difference even without the extra sound deadener in the door.

[dwcsr]

Spray foam will trap moisture as will stick-on foam padding or pretty much anything stick-on, fiberglass for sure will. Undercoating or something similar is the easiest and impervious to water or trapping water. If your covering the inside door panels with a material or vinyl then undercoat the door skin and use something like Dynomat on the inner panel. You just need to change the resonance of the outer skin to a level that we can't hear at. so covering the entire outer skin is not needed.

[slck57]

Here's what I did to my doors to give access for that very reason. Cut a hole and used an old set of doors to cut panel out of. Now it is a screw on/off access panel. It will be covered with material when all said and done.

[wolffcub]

[crossfire84]

Originally Posted by wolffcub

[joedoh]

I said this in another post and just copy/pasta here.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...66&postcount=6

sounds travel best through air, transmission through solids is by resonance, meaning the sound waves on one side vibrate the solid and that vibration causes the sound you hear on the other. there is a frequency inherent with solids and based on mass that requires the smallest input and has the largest output, and this is called the resonant frequency, the most sympathetic frequency to vibration.

with mat (rubber or asphalt) its about adding mass to lower the resonant frequency. lower frequencies take a lot more power to resonate, anyone who has ever bought a subwoofer amplifier will tell you the same thing, so by lowering the resonant frequency it takes more power (noise on the outside) to be loud (noise on the inside). Also, the lower frequencies arent as intrusive as higher frequencies.

so adding any at all to a large flat panel will damp the resonance. you dont need to coat the entire panel, you arent sealing anything.

and for the same reason, you dont need multiple layers, because its a diminishing return. if you lower the resonant frequency with the first application it will be your largest gain, extra layers will just spend money for much smaller results.

So to recap, if you have large flat panels, add some mass. Some noise will be inherent from having an all metal cab, it would be good to cover the steel with some cloth, but damping mat will help a LOT.

adding fiberglass batting will do almost nothing. seal air leaks especially in the window channels and add some mass to the door.

[dwcsr]

That door looks like someone barfed in it

[hogfarm]

when I say I am nearing the end of my project,I mean it is going to paint,my doors are in primer with no hardware

[_Ogre]

i cut raammat into 6x6 squares to stick on the outer skin of my doors
sound deadening does not have to have full coverage to work and in our trucks is of marginal value
since i have full door panels i also stuck a layer on the face of the door