AD IFS...........options available.....

[Coach529]

Originally Posted by T Hilde

You need to severely notch into the frame for the rear of the upper control arm. Or buy tubular units and still have to do some kind of notch. The steering wasn't completed at the time I did mine, he gives you ideas on what to use. One guy that I know of that actually drove his, had the turning radius of a semi. He also was using a camaro rack & pinion.

This kit has been around for a while and not got any buzz for a reason. Nice idea, very incomplete.

This is why I dumped mine and put it on a dakota chassis. At the time industrial chassis wasn't doing the the dakota thing anymore, they are back at it. One guy in South Dakota has purchased one and ready for the install.

Some people have noted the same concerns, but to me they are not a huge deal. The notching of the frame is not a huge deal. Depending on desired ride height, it may not even be necessary.



The turning radius can easily be just a matter of a different rack and pinion set up.

The thread below details a install of the Danforth set up really well.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=569491

[youngrodder]

Originally Posted by FamilyBowTie

I just checked their site and did not see any for the AD trucks.

Must be real new, I'd like to see more on this one.

Yes, its too new to be on their web site. I'm not sure when I will be getting mine but it should be in a month or so.

Marc

[wood1]

Went with Scott's, front/rear. Very happy & great service(with owner) when needed...

[T bone]

Coach, there is a company out of Canada that sells laser cut parts for our older trucks and cars. They ship flat and can be easily folded into shape and welded in your shop. I bought the mustang II IFS for coil over. The price is right and the exchange rate is favorable also.
My experience has been good. Fast shipping, they respond quickly to email questions, and have ample printed and YouTube instructions.

http://www.welderseries.com. check the menu for "suspension"

[1948GMC]

stonerspeedshop and I use heidt's and it works wonderful

[Hampshire]

http://www.gaylebridgesco.com

Gayle bridges has been around for some time doing the IFS thing. Designed with/for Jim Wiemer. Very knowledgable & has worked with some other names in the field. Helps with details others don't & knows suspension. If you like good USA made & knowledge, an excellent way to go.

[Russell Ashley]

I have a Scott's bolt in in my TF and I love it. If I had an AD I don't think I'd consider any other bolt in than a Scotts.

[N123DY]

Roadster shop has the best looking kit I've seen. Big bucks but impressive stuff.

[joeydirt]

Originally Posted by Katrina/10

I bought a Scott's, weld in or bolt in, they are a nice one piece crossmember that does not require cutting the inner fenders. I didn't even remove my engine or fenders to put put it on.

This is definitely a selling point, is this typical among the other options? Also what about weight capacity. Are the m2 based designs intended for light truck usage or does ifs pretty much turn these trucks into a car?

[Katrina/10]

Originally Posted by joeydirt

This is definitely a selling point, is this typical among the other options? Also what about weight capacity. Are the m2 based designs intended for light truck usage or does ifs pretty much turn these trucks into a car?

I know of no other IFS that can be installed without cutting, that was why I bought the Scott's. They are all based around the Mustang II spindle, which is just intended to hold up a small car. But, they must be pretty strong, because people put big blocks on top of these things and go drag racing. Never heard of one breaking.

[_Ogre]

Are the m2 based designs intended for light truck usage or does ifs pretty much turn these trucks into a car?

mustII is based on the mustII geometry, no parts are interchangeable into the old mustangs
not sure the mustII is right for heavy hauling in an old truck
but typically our trucks give up their heavy hauling duties when we fix them up

[joeydirt]

Originally Posted by _Ogre

mustII is based on the mustII geometry, no parts are interchangeable into the old mustangs
not sure the mustII is right for heavy hauling in an old truck
but typically our trucks give up their heavy hauling duties when we fix them up

Just curious I figured as much, chances are I will never do more than put a motorcycle in the back.

[joeydirt]

What is unique about the scotts IFS design that allows it to be installed without pulling the bodywork or motor?

[Katrina/10]

Originally Posted by joeydirt

What is unique about the scotts IFS design that allows it to be installed without pulling the bodywork or motor?

I suppose there are others that can be installed in the same way, but a lot of people are already tearing down their truck anyway and it is easier to install with no body in the way. If you have a kit with weld-in frame boxes, motor will have to come out. Scott's has bolt-in frame reinforcements and motor mounts.

The upper control arms and coilover shock mounts are entirely outside the frame and inner fenders, that's why you don't have to cut anything there. The frame does get a notch for the steering rack if you want it that low.

[Rickysnickers]

My vote is for TCI. I have their front and rear suspension kits on my truck.

[72Mountaineer]

I also have a TCI kit...when you call for tech aid it depends on who you talk to as to what answer you get.

[mphudak]

Originally Posted by joeydirt

What is unique about the scotts IFS design that allows it to be installed without pulling the bodywork or motor?

Looks like everything mounts under/outside the frame so nothing on top of the frame has to come out (and guessing the frame may not have to be boxed.) Lots (but not all) of the MII style kits have a the upper bucket that mounts on top of the frame rail which requires disassy of the front end to get to the inner fenders.

[markmdz]

The timing of this thread is perfect, as I've been scouring the forums and other websites looking for the pro's and con's of the different IFS options out there. To add insult to injury, I'm building a '47 3600 rather than the more traditional 3100. Fortunately, the front half of the frame is nearly identical to the 3100's so most IFS setups will adapt without modification.

I just spoke with Chassis Engineering and the guy that answered the phone knew what he was talking about and took the time to discuss the build and answer all my questions. They have the Mii parts in stock and readily available to ship. The crossmembers are fabricated in-house and to order, so they have to be made for each order placed. Despite that, they weld up and ship the kits usually within a week. Their kits do ship with shocks/springs and have the adjustable top arms which is very cool. However, their kits are not made to accommodate an air setup, so if you want to bag your front end, I'd suggest looking elsewhere or be prepared to modify the top arms yourself. All in, their kit is about $2300 out the door.

Now, although I'm sure some will want to flame me for asking, but I'm interested in knowing how the already mentioned kits compare to the eBay kits and the Brother's kit. Those are regularly from $1,300-$1,600 all-in, which is a significant savings from any other kits mentioned. Please post up your thoughts on these kits too.

[yossarian19]

to me, on an AD, it's kind of a no brainer. Get a C10 / 20 cross member and build some spacers.
It's got all the after market parts you could ask for. It's got motor mounts built into it. It's easy to narrow or lower with after market arms / spindles. It comes with bigger / better brakes than what you'll get with an after market kit unless you have a lot of money to spend on upgrades. You can run 5x5 or 6x5.5 or 8x5.5.
It's also a legit half-ton front end, if the ability to confidently haul / tow concerns you.

[joeydirt]

Originally Posted by markmdz

I'm interested in knowing how the already mentioned kits compare to the eBay kits and the Brother's kit. Those are regularly from $1,300-$1,600 all-in, which is a significant savings from any other kits mentioned. Please post up your thoughts on these kits too.

I asked the same thing recently http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=699545

The general consensus was you get what you pay for.

[markmdz]

Originally Posted by joeydirt

I asked the same thing recently http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=699545

The general consensus was you get what you pay for.

Yeah I had seen that thread and read through all the posts. Honestly, maybe I'm just looking for better bang for the buck, or maybe I'm just a cheap-skate, but I don't want to assume anything and just spend money I don't need to. ...unless of course I really do need to.

The brothers system has the boxing plates and sway bar included all for a whopping $1,500.
http://www.brotherstrucks.com/47-54-...5%20X%204-3/4/

The SouthernRods setup is just a few pennies more for a very similar system but it doesn't include the boxing plates.
http://www.southernrods.com/chassis-...kup-truck.html

Some companies are claiming the bolt-in kits are actually superior/stronger than the weld-in kits due to the way it's all assembled to the frame (yes, even with the frame being boxed).

I'm more confused now than I was before I started researching the IFS. I'm beginning to wonder if I should have just claimed ignorance and bought a cheap kit then had a fabricator buddy of mine help look everything over very well and reinforce or re-weld what needed to be 'fixed' to make it a reputable setup.

[joeydirt]

Good finds I would like to hear some reviews of the two you mentioned. It also seems that several of the IFS kits(especially the lower cost ones) are the same kit but rebranded

[Gippetto]

Nobody has chimed in on TCI. I have their weld in IFS which looks great. Fit, welds and all components are spot on as I can tell at the moment. My only gripe with them is that I got a bum steer on the fit running a Chevy 235 straight six. They told me as long as the crankcase was a rear sump it would fit. The fact is the crankcase hit the power rack about an 1-1/2" before it nested with the original front mount.
TCI's customer service suggested fix was a link to a fabricator who could design a taller, custom front mount. I built my own mount and think I am OK but really won't know til I am driving it. Somewhat of a gamble. Front of engine is 1.5 higher than stock. I have adjusted the 4-bar to make the drive-line parallel. I wouldn't totally bad mouth TCI. It's just their lack of experience with the application and not looking into all aspects of the build. Something you trust is being done.

It's a long project and you cannot judge your earlier decisions until you're way down the line. I am sure most of you have been there.

[dsraven]

gipetto,if you raised the front 1 1/2" you should also raise the rear the same so the driveline angles work out to be the same. otherwise you maybe prone to vibration. the driveshaft front and rear u joint angles need to cancel each other out.
I have TCI. they have changed to a better design for the upper control arm frame pivot mount since then. seems like a good product but I had issues with fitment. turns out i probably got the wrong cross member. I made it work but I have an automotive background so maybe easier for me than for some. most would have sent it back probably, haha.