Need help 59 Apache

[bobdavis2010]

Is any body running a v8 in there Apache 56 through 59 with the original steering box I put a motor from a 96 Chevy in 5.7 350 vortec but the original exhaust manifold won't fit on the driver side due to the steering box any ideas ?

[bobdavis2010]

......

[agnes the dog]

Changing your manifold will help. I was running a ramhorn style on my Gen 1 sbc and it was fine. I put some headers from a 73-87 truck and the steering box was the only place that I had clearance issues. I was able to form the rear around the box to give it enough clearance. I doubt you'd be able to modify that cast manifold though. I would think a center dump shorty header would give you plenty of clearance. You could also run the long tube headers, but be prepared to get out your hammer. :-)

[tsmith8]

Running this setup in my '58 Apache.

[_Ogre]

Originally Posted by tsmith8

Running this setup in my '58 Apache.

Center drop manifolds was oem with a v8
speedway has them in 2.5" fairly cheap

[bobdavis2010]

I was told they won't work with the vortec motor? But I'm not sure, it's just a 350 block?
I might just have to buy them and see if they work

[1project2many]

Unlike most Chevrolet smallblock heads, the Vortec L31 exhaust port centerline is higher than the bolts. In some cases older manifolds have a fairly large opening and this mismatch doesn't cause a problem. But there some definite cases, primarily where an exhaust gasket is used, where the misalignment can be an issue.

Although the port centerline is higher than non-Vortec heads, the bolt locations are the same as old heads. This means an older set of unmodified manifolds or headers bolted to a Vortec equipped engine will be in the same place relative to other components in the engine compartment as those same manifolds or headers on a non-Vortec head engine.

Because the Vortec port centerline is above the bolt holes, problems with sealing will often show up around the top of the ports. With headers the fix is to elongate the holes in the header flange so the header can be raised about .200". Raising the header can, in some cases, cause problems with other components in the engine compartment. I can't see any reason why this would cause a problem in a TF truck though.

I am using a set of cheapie 73-87 K1500 headers in my '57. I'm using the original V8 motor mounts and stock steering box and the truck is equipped with '80s vintage 305 heads. It is tight around the box and as I remember from years ago I had to install the headers from underneath the truck. I also had to build a tab for the clutch return spring to attach to.

LT1 port configuration is extremely similar to Vortec port configuration. I believe I would try to score a set of stock LT1 Corvette exhaust manifolds if I were putting Vortec heads into a TF truck and I wasn't dead set on full headers or original style manifolds. The Vette manifolds are center dump style like the Ram's horn manifolds and of course, fit the LT1 / Vortec port configuration.

[dsraven]

when you are all done you may want to think about a sheet metal heat shield for the steering gear, otherwise you may find it leaks a lot of the fluid out.

[bobdavis2010]

Thanks all appreciate the info

[bobdavis2010]

Got a few more questions? Today I was working on the Apache thinking of how I'm gonna run fuel lines, is it possible to keep the original gas tank with the fuel injection set up? And just run a electric fuel pump.

[1project2many]

Yes it is. I kept my tank when I installed EFI back in 93 or so. I built a custom sending unit and pump hanger to drop in the tank, ran a new 3/8" line to supply fuel to the engine and used the original 5/16" line as the return line. The truck is still configured this way and I still use it but I would recommend using a tank designed for an emissions regulated vehicle and mounting the tank outside the cab.

The problem is that fuel circulating over the engine and back to the tank heats up. As the fuel warms in the tank it tends to create fuel vapors. The vapors create pressure in the tank. The only device on the factory tank to relieve pressure is a valve in the gas cap which opens at 1-2 psi. As my sender mimicked the original part, a flat plate attached to the tank with several machine screws, it took me several tries to find suitable method to seal the sending unit so vapors in the tank would not enter the cab. This is in addition to adding a fuel cooler to the return line.

If I could talk to my 23 year old self I would tell him that being able to drive the truck without fuel smell in the cab will be way cooler than being able to say the truck has EFI and uses the original tank. And I would tell myself that the truck will never have enough room in the cab for long drives and the area behind the seat would make great storage.

That being said, I may have some photos around of the install and I could take pictures of the top of the tank today.

[bobdavis2010]

That would be awsome, thanks I can't wait to get my truck running