How can I convert to factory dash gauges?

[1972BlueC20]

Hey guys,

I'd really like to convert my factory NO GAUGES dash to gauges.

I can buy the whole cluster online but my harness and the part that plugs into the cluster isn't for factory gauges.

I know I read online about modifying the pins but it looks confusing and I don't quite understand it, seems like there should be a conversion plug or something by now LOL

I at least want the oil, temp and battery....but I'd really like the tach and the clock version too.

Problem is I have an HEI dist.....anyone know how I can make that work or am I just out of luck?

[VetteVet]

Look at this.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=295681

[1972BlueC20]

Thanks man!

I also found this :

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=645940


Still a little confusing but I think I may be able to get that part done.

My others concerns are getting the tach to work with an HEI, is it even possible?

Doesn't the tach have it's own seperate wiring harness, if so, where can I get one and how is it wired up.

Also my current temp sensor, will that work with the new cluster temp gauge?

And how do I run the copper hose through the firewall for the oil pressure gauge?

[1972BlueC20]

Ok so I think there is enough info out there for me to be able to switch the pins on the cluster connector, but what I'm still confused about is what else do I need to do? Are there any wires that will be un-used or any new wires that will need to be ran and if so ran from where to where?

Also what about using a factory tach with my HEI distributor?

[rx78nt1alex]

Just connect the tach wire from the gauge to the TACH connection on the labeled on the HEI. I made this swap, there may be unused wires, but just tape them up.The instructions tell you what wire to add or run. As long as you follow the instructions, there is no problem. Here's a different set of instructions of the same type of conversion from GMCPaul's.

Swapping A Idiot Light Dash Out To Gauge Dash

The following is for a gauge dash this gives the numbered position of the wires in gauge dash and followed by what it supplies, then number from idiot light dash you move wire from.

1-Black with white stripe 18g(alternator) This runs from the 12g R wire from voltage regulator and should have 1-4amp inline fuse.
2-Tan (Brake warning light) Original position 2
3-Pink (Fuel Gauge) Original Position 7
4-Tan(Fuel Gauge) Original Position 4
5-Empty(not Used)
6-Dark Green (Temp. Gauge) Original position 5
7-Black(ground)Original Position 6
8-Gray(cluster light feed) Original Position 12
9-Medium Blue (Right turn) Original Position 11
10-Lt. Blue (left turn) Original Position 10
11-Lt. Green (high Beam indicator) Original Position 9
12-Black/w brown stripe 18g use wire ran from the junction block near battery mounted to passenger side fender with 1-4amp inline fuse located at junction block end.
Remove the wires from your loom plug and place the colors in the # on plug that corresponds with the color from list above. You will need to replace your idiot light temp. gauge for a temp. sending unit with gauges. The black and white wire feeds from the 12gRed wire off back of alternator and requires the use of 1-4amp inline fuses, this wire you need to make and run. The DARK BLUE wire that was originally in #1 position should be deleted because this was the idiot light for the oil pressure.

[snipescastle2]

I just installed a factory set of gauges with the tach, I wired the tach separate from the harness that came with it (Separate ground/Tach signal wire to the distributor and a hot wire with key on. works just fine, no filter needed, this is a factory tach, I'm guessing the reproduction ones are the ones needing a filter......don't know.
HTH,
Ben

[1972BlueC20]

Ok I'm about to buy the full cluster gauge and make the switch from idiot lights to a full gauge cluster.

I'm buying the new complete cluster, the copper oil line, a tach filter and I got and new sending unit for the coolant temp.

Here is the stuff I bought for the wiring. The red wire is for the new line to the alternator. The black is for the new line to the junction block. Both will have an inline 4A glass fuse.

Will all this be sufficient to do the work? I've done some wiring before, but I'm not a pro. Please let me know if I need to take anything back and swap for something else or something better.