Disc brakes with 15" rims ?

[67chevemall]

Well I ordered the 2.5 drop spindle and adj. port Valve from CPP.
they wanted $256 to ship the kit so I had to just get the spindle.
Off to Napa to get the 71 rotor, caliper, ......ect

[67chevemall]

If you've got 15x9's made after 1971, they probably will be fine - but look in the general area outlined in these threads and you should be able to tell if they are tapered or not now. Good luck.[/QUOTE]

yes they are 67 rims that were fabbed 2" wider. 15X9 they rub enough to scratch into the rim but it still turns. Going to grind the caliper tonight and see if that does the trick.

[67chevemall]

Well I grinded the caliper and took a bit off the rim and they still rub and grind.

Problem rim = 15x6.5 1967 rim with 2.5" rim welded around.

I tryed a 1/4 spacer and it rubbed less but still too much.

I will try both spacers on one side tonight and see if that works. 1/2" might be to much though and hit the fender.

Option B purchase 72 and newer rims. with the 4 tabs
15x 6.5 and 15x8 were the factory options. Rare and expensive.

[Boog]

Originally Posted by 67chevemall

Well I grinded the caliper and took a bit off the rim and they still rub and grind.

Problem rim = 15x6.5 1967 rim with 2.5" rim welded around.

I tryed a 1/4 spacer and it rubbed less but still too much.

I will try both spacers on one side tonight and see if that works. 1/2" might be to much though and hit the fender.

Option purchase 72 and newer rims. with the 4 tabs
15x 6.5 and 15x8 were the factory options. Rare and expensive.

Ah, too much back space. I think 4" is about the limit with a 15" rim.

[LT1]

While searching for some tech info, I ran across this thread. My question is can I run disc brakes in the rear on a 15x14 Bart wheel with 4 inches of back spacing.

[Andy4639]

My 71 had factory disc up front and I ran 8" x 15" ralley wheels for a long time with no problems.

[Sturvin]

wrong thread, oops.

[Robznob11]

I cant imagine a 9x 15 working on front with a drop spindle . As stated 4" bs is near max with drop spindles because the lip hits the lower control arm when turning. And if you have a 9 with 4" bs. Your probably gonna be sticking out past the lip of the fender at least while turning so if your. Planning on running springs to you will likely have contact on the tires. I had to raise my truck 1/2 in to clear my tires and you still have to be careful and I completely removed the inner fenders and lips. Mine are 15x8

[AnotherWs6]

I'm bringing this back up because I have the same curiousity as the OP and for another reason. What is being referred to when talking about 3 or 4 bump wheels? Is it the slots on the wheel or the nubs to hold the hub cap on?

I have a 68 Suburban and I just ordered a 4 wheel disc brake kit from CCP. I'm not sure that the wheels are original, but if they are I guess I am going to have the "wrong" wheels.

How do identify the same steel wheels from a 71 up?

[67chevemall]

3 tab won't work
4 tab will work

They are the tabs that hold on the hub cap

Cheers,

15X8" were stock on the 4x4's try to find them.

$100 a rim they are going for maybe even more in great shape.

Start looking now because they are hard to find.

Or just get aftermarket wheels

[alsriv2]

I am going to have many of the same questions on my '69 when I do the upgrade. I have really nice MT 6 lug rims all the way around and do not want to find new rims...nor do I want to change over to 5 lug for the same reasons. I would love to take exact measurements of a rim that "will fit" and compare to the actual measurements of my 6 lug MT's. Not ready to do that now, but soon.

[67chevemall]

Oh and for the record. I had 3 tab 15X6.5 1967 rims with 2" welded in. for a 15X9.5 rim.

I sold them to a board member. Along with the spacers.

I found 4 OEM 4 tab 15 X8 1972 rims Thankfully the tires fit on the smaller width rims.
I used 1 rim for my spare tire, and one is for sale.

Looks great and the truck sits much better with the drop spindles.

[67chevemall]

Originally Posted by alsriv2

I am going to have many of the same questions on my '69 when I do the upgrade. I have really nice MT 6 lug rims all the way around and do not want to find new rims...nor do I want to change over to 5 lug for the same reasons. I would love to take exact measurements of a rim that "will fit" and compare to the actual measurements of my 6 lug MT's. Not ready to do that now, but soon.

Al I am sure they will fit. Only the 1967-1970 drum brake rims are the boat anchors.

[AnotherWs6]

Thanks for the clarification 67. I adjusted the brakes this weekend and am pretty sure I remember the rims being 3-tabbers. Not that I knew that I needed to know that. That sucks. They are freshly painted the same white as the truck, I love love love how it looks. It's just so clean and period correct. And I actually prefer 6 inchers over 8 for the same reason. The 6 inch rims just have a older vibe to em.

So yeah, adjusted my drums on Saturday and they still have issues. Not gonna get into it but the 4 wheel disc kit was ordered when I got to work on Monday. When I called CCP and asked if 15 inch rims would clear and the guy said he wasn't sure I was like what kind of moron is working the tech line? He explained what you all know and now I get it. I just ordered a 1/4 spacer set from Amazon. So the first thing is to get one wheel setup with the new brakes, look at clearance and hope I'm lucky like some have been and get away with just a spacer. If not I guess the truck is gonna be laid up until I find wheels, paint them and then get new tires mounted. (When the old ones come off, they aint going back on) Like they say....

We gon fine out!

[67chevemall]

I got mine to work with 2 - 1/4" spacers but then the studs were to short. Have to change the studs to longer ones.

Instead of blowing up the truck and drinking a 60 pounder I changed tactics.

NEVER ORDER FROM CPP THEY ARE ALL CROOKS AND FN MORONS at customer service. BANNED

I would cancel the order and stick to drum brakes if you really like the wheels you have now. I don't even notice the difference with disc. But I use friction, gravity and the engine to stop 90% of the time.

Only reason I had to get disc is because I needed the 2.5 spindles to complete the drop in the front end.

Ah the fun of it all.

Now that it is all done I am happy how it turned out.

The best part is as soon as I finished my main seal went and soaked my clutch.
And now sitting all winter the rear tranny seal went too.

Time to take the exhaust, tranny, drive shaft and clutch all apart.

[AnotherWs6]

Everything is new and adjusted on my truck and it still doesnt act right. Previous owner installed everything. Suspect booster, master, prop valve. If I'm going to start changing things I am gonna swap everything and go disc. No need to adjust for one. For two, I bought truck to tow with so I'll be less worried about fade.

Why do you say CPP are crooks and morons?

I bought the kit through Summit so hopefully I have a little more protection if things go wrong.