71 Blazer 2WD project

[richeilers]

Hatch shocks are on! Works great. Didn't go all as planned but made it work. Lift Supports Depot was great helping me get what I needed. Lou himself even emailed me a time or two to make sure I got what I needed. Once I figured out that I couldn't get a ball stud to work on the bottom, they offered to put a different end on it so I could use a bolt. I used the following shock. http://www.liftsupportsdepot.com/lif...pot-4185e32-w/ I based that selection on measurements I had done on the old hatch support slider I had. I get the correct height on the hatch but the shock doesn't compress all the way, which actually works since I noticed the shock barrel dips down a little on the rod as I open the hatch, so some space is needed. I also wasn't able to bolt in the top ball stud brackets as planned so I used rivets instead. If I were to do it over I'd get a different bracket than shown, that slot is not as big as I thought it would be and I'd feel better using a larger rivet. Seems to be holding well now though. Hope the pictures add in the correct order.

[richeilers]

Hatch pics continued......

[richeilers]

Latest task - clean up the tailgate area somewhat. The plates that hold the tailgate to body molding were corroded and bent a little. Had a guy media blast and straighten them. Got a piece of polished stainless to replace the floor, chrome, molding hold down piece. Mine was much too bent and rotted. Now, you'll see in the after pics that I don't have the molding in, I have it, but when they're in place the tailgate wouldn't close. Turns out there's molding affixed to the tailgate. It's on there real well and I'm not sure if I want to scrape it off just yet. Probably will sooner or later since I like the look of the molding in the plate where it belongs. But overall, it all came out ok, not that professional or even a great amateur job but it looks better than it did before. Not yet happy with the way the side panels are attached, maybe will just do all new black screws.

[richeilers]

After pics

[richeilers]

This week's project: Bed Rail Covers......Since I finally got my top off for the first time and plan to keep it off until it snows, I figured I needed to cover the 35 or so drilled holes in my bed rail. Thought about a couple of ways to do it and came up with a relatively easy and cheap way to do it. Supplies: 13 feet of 1/4 x 2 1/4 in wood trim wood (Home Depot), 1" foam to cover said wood (Hobby Lobby), 2 1/2 yards of black vinyl (Hobby Lobby and only 6.99 a yard on sale), 6 double ended screws # 8 x 1 1/2 - machine on one end, wood on the other (Home Depot) and wife's glue gun. Rail Prep: drill 3 holes in the rail for the two ended screws to snugly fit in to. I put the screws most of the way in and then laid the wood on in the position I wanted and gently pushed down to make a mark on the wood for where to screw the screws in later. Steps: 1. cut the wood to correct length 2. lay that strip on the foam and use a sharpie line on each side and cut to fit the wood 3. glue foam to wood 4. cut the vinyl to length and width - go a little wide and trim it down after gluing it to the wood 5. method we used was to tack the vinyl to the wood about every 4 inches without compressing the foam, then fill in between, do one whole side first, then the other (don't cover your rail screw marks) 6. found the vinyl doesn't glue to vinyl so we stapled the ends/corners. 7. Drill a pilot hole in the 3 marked spots from the Rail Prep step, be careful to not go too far through and nick your vinyl 8. Insert screws to barely come through the wood 9. Install 'em! Might have to do a little drilling out to get a good fit but mine are snug enough that I'm not worried about them flying off while I drive. I may add some super magnets to the bottom of the wood strips just in case.

[bk04z66]

Like the bed rail idea. Your driver side seat belt retractor mounts to the bolt hole in the floor. The passenger-side bolts to the rear bulkhead.

[richeilers]

Thanks bk. Actually, the passenger sides I have bolted to the seat frame, keeps them out of the way when the seat is tilted forward for people to get in the back. And neither side uses retractors.

[Beach Burb]

Rich,
Blazer is looking good! Thanks for posting your gas hatch shock solution. I'm having issues with my old manual hold open brackets, they are getting stuck all the time. I think I will order a pair for my '71 Suburban with the additional mount that you got.
Mark

[Beach Burb]

Just read your post again on the mounting bracket. Are you saying their bracket was too small or the bracket slots too narrow to fit a larger bolt?
Thanks

[richeilers]

The slots are too narrow. I had to use a smaller diameter rivet than I'd wanted to. My original plan had been to use a 1/4 inch bolt but I probably wouldn't have been able to get in there for the nuts anyway.

[Beach Burb]

What do you think about using the largest diameter sheet metal screw instead of the rivet? I know there may be a good amount of stress on that bracket. I'm thinking about placing 2 screws at the end of each slot for a total of 4 screws on each bracket?

[richeilers]

Screws might work but they are going into fiberglass...... 4 screws might work, there should be enough distance between them to not weaken the area too much......maybe?

[Beach Burb]

Didn't realize that your gate was fiberglass. On the Burb it's metal so I think I'll be good. Thanks again for the help!

[richeilers]

Oh yeah, a Burb, duh....stupid me. Might want to consider the weight diffs then and go for a heavier duty shock.......that company has or can make anything I believe. Post a pic here when you're done! Good luck.

[Beach Burb]

I did think about the weight difference. I'll have to get up with Lou and tell him what I'm up to!

[BabyBlue]

updates??

[Ta12sec]

Bed rails are super cool