05-05-2016, 03:55 AM | #1 |
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1963 c30 project help
Hey yall. I need some help on my first project truck. I recently purchased a 63 c30 and I will be putting in a 24valve cummins in it. My questions are more frame suspension related than engine swap. I need input on frame direction for the build.
1. Can i use a early 80's model c30 rolling chassis and put my cab on it or should I just change front end? Also what is the latest year of compatible front ends? 2. I was planning on boxing in my current frame to support the weight and torque of the cummins, are the 80's model c30 frames already boxed in or atleast heavy duty enough to handle the additional weight of the motor? Thanks for any input or help. Posted via Mobile Device |
05-05-2016, 08:04 AM | #2 |
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Re: 1963 c30 project help
Changing the front end will be less work. As for an 80's C30 frame being boxed- I don't remember ever seeing one boxed. I would think that boxing the existing frame would be the way to go. I think the big deal will be finding springs for the front end to support the extra 600#.
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05-05-2016, 09:39 AM | #3 |
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yes I agree with you. I have a 01 dodge 3500, i honestly considered trying to put the can on that frame and then i wouldn have to worry about any suspension or engine mount modifications. But i think that would be chessy and it most likely wont sit right. But it would be way easier. I would rather modifiy a way to sit that body on there than do all of the work on this frame
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05-05-2016, 09:40 AM | #4 |
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Re: 1963 c30 project help
I dont care about making it all original or anything like that but i want it to be somehwhat correct.
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05-05-2016, 11:27 AM | #5 |
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Re: 1963 c30 project help
Your C30 frame should not need boxing if it is sound. That is assuming this is a daily driver and not a puller or drag racer of coarse.
I would just swap the front end for a late 70's early 80's, install the cummins and call it a day.
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63 k20 with cummins 4bt, owned sence 1982 |
05-05-2016, 12:49 PM | #6 | |
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Quote:
I agree with you. The dodge frames were not square channel frame till after 2000 or even after 2007. I just thought maybe it had better engineering and bracing. I could add some braces to it atleast just to try and keep it from twisting. I think the reason i was hearing guys boxing them in is because they were trying to push 500hp plus Posted via Mobile Device |
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05-05-2016, 05:43 PM | #7 |
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Re: 1963 c30 project help
Also I found a shortbed c10 short bed in good shape which is "118 wheel base. Do you think that would be to short if I took the c30 to "118 wheel base? My current c30 has "133 wheel base
Or should I go with a longbed which I believe would be "127 Thanks Posted via Mobile Device |
05-06-2016, 02:28 AM | #8 |
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Re: 1963 c30 project help
I cant offer too much info on the later frames but before you make any firm plans you should be aware that a 24v (same size as the 12v I'm using) will not fit between the firewall and grill on 60-66 trucks. Width wise you will have plenty of room, but length wise the engine will have to encroach on the cabin area. I had to put about 1 1/2 cylinders through the firewall to leave enough room for the radiator and intercooler. Or you can stretch the fenders, I would think about 6-8 inches depending on how large a fan you'll run. I opted to cut the firewall but I have seen the fenders stretched to make it work.
your current c30 frame should be just fine unless you plan on running super high HP. But if you plan on running less than ~500hp then no change on the frame should be needed. The only thing you may want to upgrade is the 1 ton running gear. I would not run less with the 24v but running upgraded suspension would be where I would focus my attention. At least that is what I'd do (and doing)
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1960 c30 Apache Panel w/ '95 cummins bt6 turbo diesel (work in progress) NOTE: due to photobucket trying to extort money my photos are temporarily unavailable. currently looking for alternative to fix issue. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=523009 Last edited by spacedebris; 05-06-2016 at 02:43 AM. |
05-06-2016, 04:33 AM | #9 | |
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How did it affect the dash? Posted via Mobile Device |
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05-06-2016, 09:11 AM | #10 |
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Re: 1963 c30 project help
If you measure a first gen Dodge and a 60-66 Chevy the distance from firewall to radiator is with in 3/4", so I think it will fit with out a lot of fire wall mods with the right combination of parts.
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63 k20 with cummins 4bt, owned sence 1982 |
05-06-2016, 09:16 AM | #11 | |
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But i did read where a few guys took of the front fan and attached a double electric fan to the radiator and saved about 2.5". Posted via Mobile Device |
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05-06-2016, 11:28 AM | #12 | |
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Re: 1963 c30 project help
Quote:
I could have moved it a couple inches further forward but not enough to clear the firewall.
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1960 c30 Apache Panel w/ '95 cummins bt6 turbo diesel (work in progress) NOTE: due to photobucket trying to extort money my photos are temporarily unavailable. currently looking for alternative to fix issue. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=523009 |
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05-06-2016, 04:37 PM | #13 |
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Re: 1963 c30 project help
I am actually going this direction with my C30 - 12v Cummins with '86 suspension (front and rear).
Like the guys have said - going the route of swapping the front and rear suspension from your 80s donor onto the '63 frame is much easier. The rear leaf springs from the 80s truck will be longer than your original '63 (at least my '86s were - I have the exact dimensions in the garage if you want them) so you will not be able to use the original leaf spring hangers on the frame.
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"Dixie" - 1988 Chevrolet V30 CC DRW "3+3" | 7.4L 454 (L19) | TH400 | 4" lift | 35"s "Lucille" - 1949 Chevrolet 3100 (on hold) |
05-06-2016, 04:42 PM | #14 |
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Re: 1963 c30 project help
Couple photos of a few swaps out there.
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"Dixie" - 1988 Chevrolet V30 CC DRW "3+3" | 7.4L 454 (L19) | TH400 | 4" lift | 35"s "Lucille" - 1949 Chevrolet 3100 (on hold) |
05-07-2016, 12:14 AM | #15 |
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Re: 1963 c30 project help
Keep the original frame and just change the front suspension and the differential. And of course add power steering and hydroboost brakes. I don't see why the frame would need to be boxed, but others with more experience with Cummins swaps would know more about that.
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