Frame build help

[hotrod1]

Hey Everyone:

There was a build where someone built a chassis starting with 2x6 (I think) rectangular tubing for the rails, and I dont remember which build it was. Does anyone remember?

Thanks

[_Ogre]

you realty ought to put the year and make of your truck in your signature
2 posts about frames and i still don't know what year truck you have

[hotrod1]

Originally Posted by _Ogre

you realty ought to put the year and make of your truck in your signature
2 posts about frames and i still don't know what year truck you have

Hey Ogre

Think I got it right to put the year in my signature. Thanks for that. If it doesn't work, its a 56, but dont mind seeing other years as well.

[_Ogre]

a lot depends on your fabrication level and skill as a welder/fitter and the space you have in your shop
bad welding on any structural member could lead to a catastrophic failure and/or death
but that goes for installing a mustII cross member too

if you look at the factory assembly manual the frames are flat on top except on 1/2 and 3/4 ton frames over the rear axle
since you need a c-notch anyway just plan ahead
the fam also has all the dimensions you need to fabricate a new frame
stock frame is 5.25, i think 2x6 is a little heavy, think about using 1.5x5 x.120 wall tubing
rectangular tube is a lot stronger than the oem c-channel frame

properly braced with x-members a fabricated frame would be a lot stiffer than the oem frame

[rawraw67]

frame dimensions are 2.25x 6.0 use 10ga mild steel

[Russell Ashley]

Check out Chuck Driver's thread. There's a lot of pages to his thread but his frame build doesn't start until late.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...334552&page=24

[dsraven]

if you are gonna build your own frame, start at the scrap metal yard and pick up some heavy duty I beam or the like.use that for a table to build your frame on. you can use angle or smaller channel for uprights, welded to the I beam, that will keep the frame exactly where you put it. set it up level and square. those frames are not that complicated so it shouldn't be that tough to build your own and install a mustangII front end or whatever your plan is. take a look at welders series for a do it yourself mustangII front end kit that you build yourself, if you wanna keep the costs down. they also sell brackets etc for a home made 4 link or other stuff.

[hotrod1]

Originally Posted by Russell Ashley

Check out Chuck Driver's thread. There's a lot of pages to his thread but his frame build doesn't start until late.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...334552&page=24

Thanks Russell Ashley.

Chuckdriver did a great job. Wish there were more pics of the frame when it was done though. I imagine with that front frame narrowing, he should be able to run a very wide tire up front.

There was a guy on here who started with 2x6 rectangular tubing. I would also like to find his build.

[Speedbumpauto]

Just an opinion but I think 2x6 is over kill. The Art Morrison frame uses 2x4 tubing and it looks sweet.

[hotrod1]

Originally Posted by Speedbumpauto

Just an opinion but I think 2x6 is over kill. The Art Morrison frame uses 2x4 tubing and it looks sweet.

Hey Speedbump. 2x6 may be overkill, but:

Morrison catelog Pg 19 they show a 55-59 chassis and it is 2x6.

http://www.artmorrison.com/2006cat/2...atalog_LR2.pdf

Here are pics of frame they build for a 55, and it is 2x6.

http://www.artmorrison.com/gallery/m...2_itemId=26523

Some guys are using 2x6 .188 wall.

[DransportGarage]

Don't know which 2x6 frame build, but here is one:

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=704527

[hotrod1]

Take a look at the Morrison frame. They have 2x6 rails welded to 2x4, mandrel bent ends for the front and rear. Nice stuff. I called them up and wanted to buy the front and rear bent portions. They said that they wont sell them because they are proprietary. They said they will build mandrel ends for me if I come up with the angles and dimensions. Kind of goofy.

[dsraven]

take a look at the Canadian hotrods site, they build their road hugger chassis with all corvette underpinnings. nice job. maybe get some hints while you look.

[nebdrummer]

If I were to do it again, I would do it all out of round tubing. Light as I could. I boxed my 3/4 frame, and it. Is. Heavy.

[hotrod1]

Originally Posted by nebdrummer

If I were to do it again, I would do it all out of round tubing. Light as I could. I boxed my 3/4 frame, and it. Is. Heavy.

Hey Nebdrummer

That was my initial thought. 1.75"x.095" dual round tubing in cromoly, and make it light. Everyone has tried to talked me out of it - too much work. In addition, I am not sure of the engineering of the rails in round tubing. Any ideas?

Here is a chassis I found on Pro-touring.com. I PM'd him for ideas and engineering but did not get a response. Looks like he did a great job.

http://www.pro-touring.com/threads/9...-C10-from-Ohio

Most convential frames are made from 2x6x.120 rectangular tube which weighs 6.33lbs/ft., while 1.75x.095 round tube is 1.675lbs/ft. If you use 2 of these tubes, with a spreader tube of 3" every foot, the frame rail would weigh 3.76lbs/ft. Not only would it be lighter but stronger.

I would sure like to find someone who can help direct me with a tubular chassis.

[tinydb84]

That guy is on here too. I dont remember the build though.

Check out this build: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=685553

You will probably find more double tube chassis on a drag forum like Yellow bullet. Check out these guys too: http://www.overkillchassis.com/ They have tons of pics on instagram too.

[hotrod1]

Originally Posted by tinydb84

That guy is on here too. I dont remember the build though.

Check out this build: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=685553

You will probably find more double tube chassis on a drag forum like Yellow bullet. Check out these guys too: http://www.overkillchassis.com/ They have tons of pics on instagram too.

I saw the build that overkill did. Nice job.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=638957

[nebdrummer]

I guess honestly, I wouldn't even put thought to being strong enough. I would have built rails to match the factory shape, brace them, make a good x member in the center combining the trans brace all the way back to the rear suspension points, then make all my other mounts. I probably woulda gone with c4/c6 front suspension, power rack, ect. Then, if anything seems questionable from what I added on, then I'd brace it accordingly. Just support every pinch point, use common sense, and I don't see where things could go wrong.