05-17-2016, 10:58 PM | #1 |
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Join Date: May 2013
Location: Salisbury, NC
Posts: 52
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Lowering question
I'm sure this has been asked on here before, so just bear with me. I've got a 72 1/2 ton lwb thats at stock height and riding on 15x8's with 275/60/15 tires. My plan was to put 3" lowering springs up front with 2.5" drop spindles and 4" lowering springs in the back. Before I go through with buying the parts, just wanted to see if I'd run into any problems like one I read that the brake lines need to be longer up front so that the caliper will reach when the suspension is unloaded during travel or jacking up. Also double checking I wont have any tire rub when maxing out the steering. Any input, pics of anything similar, or links to other threads are much appreciated. Thanks guys you're always great help.
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1972 C10, used to be daily driven and hoping to be that way again at some point. |
05-18-2016, 12:32 AM | #2 |
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Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Falls City, Nebraska "100 Miles From Nowhere"
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Re: Lowering question
With 275/60's your tires will rub! You wont have any issues with brake lines but! With 2-1/2" drop spindles and 3" drop springs, your crossmember will practically be dragging the pavement. Heres a pic of my 72 with 2-1/2" drop spindles and 1" lowering springs and those are BFG 275/60/15's all four corners. This pic is also with 4" lowering springs in the rear. I wouldnt go more than 2" with drop springs up front especially without looking into a narrower wheel and tire. 4" is about the limit out back without having to bend or add an adjustable panhard bar as well as shock relocation mounts. Thats another issue up front as well, "shorty shocks" will be needed if you drop beyond 1" up front and 4" out back.~Ghostrider~
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Michael of the clan Hill, "Two Seventy Two's" 71 1-ton Dually 350 4-Speed 71 C/50 Grain Truck, 350 Split-Axle 4-Speed 02 3/4 ton Express 14 Indian Chief Vintage 1952 Ford 8N, "Only Ford Allowed On The Property" "Be American, Buy American" |
05-18-2016, 01:09 AM | #3 | |
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Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Rancho Mirage, Ca.
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Re: Lowering question
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05-18-2016, 10:26 AM | #4 |
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Join Date: May 2013
Location: Salisbury, NC
Posts: 52
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Re: Lowering question
Thank you both Ironangel and ck5566. I've got limited knowledge when it comes to lowering but this helped me out a ton and so did the picture. Did you endup having to run the shorty shocks with the 2.5 spindles and 1 inch spring? If so what do you suggest? After seeing this I think I'll go with 2 inch spindles and 1 inch spring and 4 in the rear.
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1972 C10, used to be daily driven and hoping to be that way again at some point. |
05-18-2016, 11:04 AM | #5 |
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Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Saskatchewan
Posts: 357
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Re: Lowering question
If you plan on going what would be 5.5/4 drop, this will be an extremely raked look, my suggestion would be to go 5" drop springs in rear, and add a 2.5" block in the rear as well, this will give it a level to slightly raked look.
List of parts: Obviously Drop Springs front and rear, drop spindles front, lowering blocks rear, longer U bolts rear, adjustable panhard bar rear, frame C notch rear, and shock relocation brackets front and rear, also your exhaust will need to be tucked up higher than your frame rail, and I'd take a look to see where your oil pan sits, idealy you want your frame rails to be the first point of contact, not your oil pan.
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1972 C10 - It might be old, but it's not slow |
05-18-2016, 11:38 AM | #6 |
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Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: Bothell, WA
Posts: 548
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Re: Lowering question
I have the same 72 LWB. Also have the same 15" wheels. Went with 2 1/2" drop spindles and 2" drop springs and airbags in the rear. The stance is great but I have about 3 1/2" of clearance at the front cross member. I have to be careful about parking lots with speed bumps. I did use short shocks in the front. Had no issues with brake lines. Was able to have a standard alignment done at one of the local tire stores. An additional problem is jack clearance in the front. I cannot get my hydraulic floor jack under the bumper without elevating the front end of the truck. I currently use some stepped wooden block that I drive up onto. I raises the front about 4" allowing me to get the jack under the front crossmember. It looks great but does create some issues that standard height trucks don't have to worry about.
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