1974 C20 Soon to become a project...

[Super_Dave]

Well... After several unfruitful hours trying to get the NVU 'In-Direct Fit Gauge Cluster' to fit on the back of my new OEM Dash Bezel, I have come to the conclusion that it isn't going to do the job as advertised. PLUS... given that the gauges were packaged so poorly and the Tachometer bezel was nicked and scratched, I don't have any recourse but to return the $900 set to Summit for a refund. I think NVU had a good idea but more effort should have been spent refining the concept and ensuring repeatable accuracy. It would not have take much, and perhaps they will one day come to this conclusion.

Issues:

The replacement rear housing on the NVU gauge cluster is laser cut and then heat formed to simulate the angle for the four system gauges. This is a hit or miss proposition at best, as you are at the mercy of the shop monkeys ability to heat the material in the same place and bend it to the same angle EVERY time. These are clearly not done on any jigs to control accuracy. NVU's response to poor QC and production techniques, is to tell you that you might have to re- heat and re-bend your $900 cluster to fit; something that should have been fully disclosed on their website and isn't... UNACCEPTABLE.

The large Speedometer and Tachometer gauge holes in the NVU replacement housing is laser cut to accept the gauges. As noted in a previous post and accompanying photos, their secure ring is actually an injection moulded part with random length legs that were cut from the injection with Dykes; requiring every leg to be re-cut and filed to the same length. For a $900 cluster this is... UNACCEPTABLE.

The large Speedometer and Tachometer gauge holes in the NVU replacement housing were not cut on the correct center to center dimension. Either the Tachometer fits over the back of the dash bezel or the Speedometer fits over the back, but NOT BOTH at the same time. The holes were laser cut 1/6"+ off center and there is nothing you can do to correct it except spend an inordinate amount of time filing and grinding one of the large gauge holes to line up with the back of the Dash Bezel. For a $900 cluster this is... UNACCEPTABLE.

The small system gauges have their own issues.
On the back of the Dash Bezel, the system gauge housings have a slight inward rounded crown on the lip; in other words, the lip is not flat.
The inner diameter of the NVU gauge bezels are too small to fit 'over' the housing lip and outer diameter is too large to fit 'inside' the housing lip. What ends up happening, is the gauges 'skate' around on the back of the housing without a hint of positive engagement. For a $900 cluster this is... UNACCEPTABLE.

When it's all said and done, all these issues; from extremely poor packing to poor manufacturing QC and extremely poor fit, this $900 gauge cluster is on it's way back.

Perhaps others have had great, resounding success and enjoy their $900 purchase. I have not and will not be entertaining any future purchases from NVU.

[Super_Dave]

Before sending the NVU Gauge Cluster back, I took the weekend to do a proof of concept.

In another thread, I discussed the option of a Front Install Gauge Cluster using the OEM Dash Bezel. I had taken some rudimentary preliminary measurements and determined that it should be feasible with certain size gauges.

Over the weekend, I took a Dremel to the OEM Dash Bezel. I knew there were some specific peculiarities to the bezel. Some could be compensated for and others would have to be lived with. The goal was to see if both were acceptable.

Peculiarities:

System Gauges

1. The top row are inset deeper than the bottom row by about .25".
2. They have a raised silver ring inside the recess that has to be dealt with if the gauge bezel doesn't cover it.
3. They have a cone shaped housing on the back that needs to be removed so the gauge lock ring can sit flush.
4. They needed to have the inner silver rings removed as the gauge bezel would not cover the ring.
5. The recesses needed something to fill in behind the gauge bezel once the inner ring was removed, as the gauge would fall all the way through.
6. The recess walls are flared on the left and 90° walls on the right.

Speedometer-Tachometer

1. They have all the same issues as the system gauges plus their front side bezel bases are oval, where as the system gauge bezel bases are not.
2. Also they do not have the same flare issues as the system gauges, making the main Dash Bezel face area essentially flat.

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Given these parameters, I set about cutting into the OEM Bezel.

1. I cut away the tapered backs of the system gauges.
2. I sanded the areas flat with a ROS.
3. I milled away the inner silver ring area, leaving about .125-.1875" flat land area.
4. I laser cut trim rings to slide over the back of the gauges, so they would not fall through the new holes.
5. I laser cut trim rings to slide over the back of the gauges, creating a base for the lock rings to tighten against.
6. I cut away the back of Speedometer and Tachometer housings, leaving the flat area intact.
7. I milled away the inner silver ring area, leaving about .125-.1875" flat land area.
8. I laser cut oval trim rings and slid them over the speedometer and tachometer and put them in the new holes.
9. I laser cut trim rings to slide over the back of the gauges, creating a base for the lock ring legs to tighten against.

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What I learned

1. It is possible to mount attractive gauges from the front of the OEM Dash Bezel.
2. If you take your time when trimming away the silver center rings on the OEM Dash Bezel, you will not gouge it like I did in a couple places. Using a Dremel with a .125" End Mill is not the tool of choice...
3. The front trim rings, used to keep the gauges from falling through and to conceal your cut, are better off milled from aluminum so it will not flex when tightening the locking rings on the back. The back trim rings can be anything that will stand up over time and not crack or deteriorate.
4. The black front trim rings were cut from black two ply acrylic (what I had on hand and not what I would use for a permanent install) which had a white back. The white shows up in the photos. Using a solid color material, or painted/powder coated aluminum front trim rings eliminates this issue.
5. There are a number of custom gauge companies and some will sell just the gauges and not lock you into a lot of questionable "direct fit" parts you don't need. Some, like Speedhut, use 1" deep gauges and have adopted the locking ring attachment concept on all the gauges, not just the 2.0625" system gauges. I would find this preferable to the NVU "legs" on their larger gauges.
6. The 2.0625" system gauges are the one's to use and the Speedometer and Tachometer need to be in the 4.75" diameter range measured at the front bezel. A smaller 3.375" diameter Speedometer and Tachometer could be used, you just need to adjust the width of your front trim ring.

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Assumptions still not proven

Since my project dash is still in the truck awaiting a stall to open up for the wiring harness install, I cannot prove the assumption that the OEM back housing will still fit on the back of the dash bezel.

If the back housing does fit, and the available 1" deep gauges lead me to believe it will, then you can retain your gear selection indicator and turn signal locations and hardware. If, for whatever reason, the back housing does not fit, and you want to retain the OEM gear selection indicator and turn signal functionality, you will need to modify the OEM back housing as need to accomplish the task.

[Super_Dave]

The $800 NVU Gauges arrived at the Summit facility several days ago. I am waiting to order different gauges, Speedhut most likely, until the credit appears back in my account.

I stopped by the shop this afternoon. The shop might have a stall open up sometime next week, so I can start pulling out wiring and get ready for the AAW Harness. While I was standing in the shop, looking across the parking lot to my project just sitting there, I notice a new puddle back by the transmission tail shaft. I asked Tony about it and he surmised it was the rear seal on the transmission. So, I crawled under the truck and sure enough, nice, fresh trans fluid.

Nice, $2200 and about 100 feet of driving and my new transmission has a platter size puddle under a truck that has been sitting for almost a month. My driving is measured by the foot, not the mile, since the trans was installed.

It's under warranty and I know they will stand behind it; it's just the thought of a power steering pump and now a rear trans seal going out in a truck that's just been sitting for weeks... not to mention how the wiring started to smoulder with the key on but the motor not running, which damn near burned my truck to the ground!

Then there are the supplier issues, crappy $800 gauge cluster that tied up funds for three weeks and now every time I stop by the shop, there's a new leak under my truck with $6-$7K in motor and trans.

Oh, and the Buick Regal I bought to get me around while the truck was out of commission getting all the work done... the same car the tow truck driver who was moving by nearly burned down truck back to the shop; has developed a random shudder in 1st gear and the 1-2 shift. It's random in occurrence and severity. So, now I have another issue to deal with.

I know there is a reason we fart around with old trucks and cars, but I can't seem to remember at the moment...

[mikentosh]

Just read through all the issues you had with the NVU gauges It looks like they definitely have a QC problem going on there. I think cause mine was a custom order that they provided photos before shipping I avoided almost all these issues, but I agree with you that at $900 for their standard offer there shouldn't be any of these problems.

Both Dakota and NVU have the same bit in their instructions about re-bending the accessory gauge pod. I'm wondering if GM changed that angle in the 81+ gauges which is why they are calling this out?

Anyway, I think you've got a great idea going with the Speedhut setup. Good luck!

[LiveAnimals]

I don't know if this question was answered or not but I recently put those headlight bezels on my 73 (I like the full chrome front). The only difference is the lower grill trim, as far as mounting locations I found them to be in all the same spots.

I removed all the necessary components from a 1979 C10 which I believe was the first year for those style bezels. To my knowledge they were on the 1980 trucks too but only on the lower trim models.

[Super_Dave]

Originally Posted by LiveAnimals

I don't know if this question was answered or not but I recently put those headlight bezels on my 73 (I like the full chrome front). The only difference is the lower grill trim, as far as mounting locations I found them to be in all the same spots.

I removed all the necessary components from a 1979 C10 which I believe was the first year for those style bezels. To my knowledge they were on the 1980 trucks too but only on the lower trim models.

Thanks for the info!

[Super_Dave]

I finally got my Speedhut Gauges. After a couple of additional weeks delay at the shop, I am now in a position to get the wiring harness installed and get the project back on the road.

This morning, I unpacked the gauges. As far as packing goes, Speedhut has NVU beat hands down. Their packing was tighter than a bulls butt in fly time! There is no way anything is going to get damaged unless it's an Act of God.

Unlike the poor NVU gauges, you can see how every gauge is secured with a locking ring. You can also see how the wiring is simple daisy chained capable and that gauges are 1" deep, making the install in every application a lot easier.

The locking rings operate very smooth and positive and lock down very tight. The finish on the CNC Bezel Rings is superb. The graphics are crisp and clear.