Selection of Replacement Distributor 1975 truck 350 sbc

[Fredthecat]

I need shopping / install tips for overhaul/update/ replacement of stock points distributor for 1975 Chevrolet truck 350 V8.

Installed in 1964 C10 LB pickup with truck 4 speed, Holley 4160, headers.

As purchased: Runs rich, rough. #5 cylinder wire misfires, found cap terminal green. New plugs/wires.

Thinkin pull / rebuild/ or junk distributor, appears stock with points /condenser Axcell cap.

R&R Holley 4160 too.

Distributor looks tight against firewall for install in 64 C10

Are there good (NAPA) better (SUMMIT) $$ best (Unknown racing) ways to go for new distributor? Get rid of points? Replace with what? Don’t see entire MSD system in future.

$200 budget.

Need regular reliability and low end torque more than performance for general old driver pickup truck.

Sources? What works well? Whats in your SBC?
Thanks

Fredthecat

[Shady Rascal]

A normal GM HEI distributor will fit in your 64 truck and clear the firewall. It is close, but it clears fine and works without having to injure the firewall in any way. That gets rid of your old points and condenser and gives better performance and drivability. Some guys like the 75 dollar Chinese HEI clones that are sold on eBay. For me, I get used GM HEI (you're in California, surely Craigslist has some to offer) and rebuild them with new module, coil, cap and rotor from Rockauto. Even including new plug wires you should be able to go that route and still stay under your budget.

[Fredthecat]

Thanks SR,
This is exactly the help I needed. Confirming an HEI distributor will fit in '75 350 installed in '64 C10 without having to alter firewall or pull motor was first step. Even if very close, if it slips in, clears and has been proven...great!

Losing stock distributor is second step.
There are several old GM HEI laying about in buddies parts bins.

Budget just increased to ~$350-400....to make it run right.

Will be searching for complete, new, upper mid-high quality HEI distributor.
Bling not needed.

I go to Summit Racing in Reno once a month.
Any suggestions for what brand to seek; MSD, Mallory, etc.

My first sbc.

Thanks

[tucsonjwt]

I would stick with OEM HEI. Once you get the AC Delco part number (or OEM GM part number) try:

www.oewarehouse.com
www.oehq.com
www.rockauto.com

And also try Amazon and Ebay.

[Titomars]

I use nothing but Davis Unified Ignition (DUI) HEI distributors. They work great. They come with brass caps and a High output coil. DUI even recommends opening the plug gaps to .055 or .060. I run mine at .050. The advance curves are pre-set up for each engine application and they are rated to 7k. They test every one before it leaves their factory and each dizzy comes with a spec sheet with the results from the run up. The factory GM HEI's are normally only good to 6k at best. My BBC DUI cost around $279.00 at Summit.

Get a good set of Taylor or DUI's Live Wire sets and you should be good to go.

[barry1982]

I have swapped quite a few HEI's into vehicles equipped with point type distributors. Guess it all depends on what you are using the truck for, and how much you want to spend. For a " daily driver", a good $50 junkyard HEI will work just fine. Throw on a new cap/rotor/wires/ plugs, and your in business.

[midnight rambler]

I have the summit house brand in my 74, it gave new life to my tired 350

[hatzie]

Just get a used big cap HEI distributor. You can re-work a GM HEI distributor in a couple hours for $100-$250 depending on what's bad. With Delco electrical and proper care in assembly it will run well for another 40 years and replacement parts are over-the-counter.

Look it over carefully. If the base casting is cracked, the advance weight studs are badly worn, or the advance pivot is seized on the shaft from rust get a different unit.
Before you disassemble it check the gear endplay. No reason to buy a shim set if you're already at .010"-.013" but most are pretty loose. Every .0128" is about 1° of advance so the closer you can get to .010" the better. http://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/sh...?post/1257140/

Professional grade electrical parts from AC Delco that will work and play well together and most are available cheaper than local with Amazon Prime shipping;

1. AC-Delco D1906 Professional grade four terminal HEI ignition module
2. AC-Delco D221 Professional Radio Antenna Module Capacitor (The usually shagged out wiring pigtail between the module and the distributor cap)
3. AC-Delco D336X (19110931) & AC-Delco D448X Professional Distributor Cap & Rotor (these used to be Brass terminal parts I haven't bought a set in a few years)
4. AC-Delco D504A Professional grade Ignition Coil
5. AC-Delco D1907X Professional grade pickup assembly or "Pole Piece"... maybe. If it Ohms OK and the pigtail is undamaged use it.

NOTES: #1, 2 & 3 are pretty much mandatory. If #4 is of unknown pedigree replace it. #5 Ohm the coil for coil resistance and shorts to the Iron core and check visually for heat damaged pigtail wire jacket. If it passes muster re-use it.

A pretty short list of aftermarket parts from the usual suspects (Moroso, Mr Gasket, etc);

• Moroso 26140 Gear shims to get as close to .010 end play as you can manage.
• Moroso 72300 H.E.I Advance Curve Kit (springs, weights, and bushings)
• ACCEL 31035 Adjustable Vacuum Advance if it's needed. Test with a Mityvac. If it holds 18" vacuum for 60-120 seconds and the arm moves freely when you apply and release vacuum it's just fine.
• Moroso 26150 Distributor Housing Shim Kit (For the odd chance that the distributor gear bottoms on the oil pump shaft or block before the housing flange hits the intake manifold)
• ACCEL 170072 HEI Battery and Tachometer Pigtail Harness (one connector for the tach and BAT connection) Nice clean install look but not strictly neccesary.

A few good reference sites...
http://rmcavoy.freeshell.org/HEI.html
http://www.rustynutscarclub.com/HEI.htm
http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w...EI_distributor

[Kenfuzed]

You may want this thread moved over to the 60-66 message board since that is your model and there are plenty of people over there (including myself) who have done this.

If you are already having clearance issues with the stock points style distributor then a stock big cap HEI may be even tougher to fit. I would start by measuring the clearance between the current cap and the firewall. Many people have had success but others including myself could not fit a big cap HEI without a lot of difficulty.

In my situation I was installing a 350 that already had a big cap HEI and it was within 1/8" of the firewall and would have been impossible to remove the whole distributor after the engine was in. My case might be extreme but I opted to move the engine forward 3" to the forward frame holes using some tubular engine mounts from POL and extend the drive shaft. Gave me tons more room in the back to work but that solution is not for everyone.

Back to your situation, if you measure and the current cap is already at the firewall you could try one of the Pertronix, MSD, or similar offerings that do not have the coil-in-cap style, thus it would be a smaller diameter cap than regular HEI.
Pros: Smaller cap that still allows you room between the firewall.
Cons: You are committed to that brand for replacement parts unlike a traditional HEI coil-in-cap (big cap) that are interchangeable between brands. You also need an external coil and some are specific to that distributor.

Had I not already invested in my HEI distributor I would have gone the route of this smaller cap style distributor.

On a different vehicle I used a Pertronix Flame Thrower w/Ignitor III and their matching coil, and it worked great. Smaller cap and the module is internal so no need to mount a separate controller box, just a separate coil.

Anyway that's JMHO so please don't flame me

[Shady Rascal]

Originally Posted by Kenfuzed

You may want this thread moved over to the 60-66 message board

In my situation I was installing a 350 that already had a big cap HEI and it was within 1/8" of the firewall and would have been impossible to remove the whole distributor after the engine was in.

It was that close on my 63 too. And I couldn't just remove the clamp and yank the whole distributor, but I was able to R&R the distributor with the cap removed, then replace the cap once it was down in place.

[rich weyand]

Don't forget with the HEI distributor to open your plug gaps up to .045".

Use ACDelco R45TS or Autolite 24 plugs.

Best wires are Taylor 74206, but they are pricey.

[akart]

Originally Posted by Titomars

I use nothing but Davis Unified Ignition (DUI) HEI distributors. They work great. They come with brass caps and a High output coil. DUI even recommends opening the plug gaps to .055 or .060. I run mine at .050. The advance curves are pre-set up for each engine application and they are rated to 7k. They test every one before it leaves their factory and each dizzy comes with a spec sheet with the results from the run up. The factory GM HEI's are normally only good to 6k at best. My BBC DUI cost around $279.00 at Summit.

Get a good set of Taylor or DUI's Live Wire sets and you should be good to go.

Ditto that, I have the DUI too, US made and nothing but fine reviews, The best in IMHO. Got there wires too. I think I have better power.

[hatzie]

Originally Posted by Kenfuzed

You may want this thread moved over to the 60-66 message board since that is your model and there are plenty of people over there (including myself) who have done this.

If you are already having clearance issues with the stock points style distributor then a stock big cap HEI may be even tougher to fit. I would start by measuring the clearance between the current cap and the firewall. Many people have had success but others including myself could not fit a big cap HEI without a lot of difficulty.

In my situation I was installing a 350 that already had a big cap HEI and it was within 1/8" of the firewall and would have been impossible to remove the whole distributor after the engine was in. My case might be extreme but I opted to move the engine forward 3" to the forward frame holes using some tubular engine mounts from POL and extend the drive shaft. Gave me tons more room in the back to work but that solution is not for everyone.

Back to your situation, if you measure and the current cap is already at the firewall you could try one of the Pertronix, MSD, or similar offerings that do not have the coil-in-cap style, thus it would be a smaller diameter cap than regular HEI.
Pros: Smaller cap that still allows you room between the firewall.
Cons: You are committed to that brand for replacement parts unlike a traditional HEI coil-in-cap (big cap) that are interchangeable between brands. You also need an external coil and some are specific to that distributor.

Had I not already invested in my HEI distributor I would have gone the route of this smaller cap style distributor.

On a different vehicle I used a Pertronix Flame Thrower w/Ignitor III and their matching coil, and it worked great. Smaller cap and the module is internal so no need to mount a separate controller box, just a separate coil.

Anyway that's JMHO so please don't flame me

Info on period correct looking round coils suitable for HEI...http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/t...-ohms.1004860/

Hybrid HEI systems are possible as long as the distributor has an AC signal magnetic pickup.

For example on my 69 Polara... I bolted a D1906 4 terminal HEI to a specially milled chunk of 1/2" thick aluminum bar stock with heatsink paste. I used a gutted Chrysler ignition module as a cover. I also soldered pigtail wires to run from the D1906 to the Chrysler ignition module plug. I used a standard Chrysler 400 magnetic pickup distributor and a low 0.32ohm round Pertronix 44011 coil. I used the original Chrysler points ignition radio noise suppression condenser mounted on the original coil bracket and terminated to the + post on the new coil. I had to roll my own ignition sub-harness to connect the distributor, module, and coil to the car. Pigtails are available for the Chrysler ignition module and the magnetic pickup is a 2 position trailer connector. A casual observer will not be able to tell that Chrysler didn't build my 69 Polara with that ignition now. Yes. I could've used the Chrysler module but that's a 6V coil system not 12V with the obligatory drop in output voltage... 6v= 20KV output 12v low ohm coil=45KV output. Wider gapped plugs make the fuel light off easier and you need more volts for that.

This guy took breaker points distributors for AMC and Chrysler engines and built small HEI distributors...
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/sm...cheap-1339405/