Truck lost all electrical while jump starting

[Killer Bee]

yes, battery cable from remote to starter is only hot while cranking [remote relay closed]

hopefully not condescending, just throwing out some ideas of things that may be wrong or could have been overlooked..

recap on the starter wiring;
to convert the gm starter to one wire, you have to install a jumper from the battery terminal to the s terminal so that when the battery cable is energized, it also energizes the solenoid on the starter to engage the bendix to the flywheel.. one of the biggest advantages to this is removing the constantly energized battery cable from harms way [big culprit is headers] and relocate these terminations to the firewall for much better access.

so in doing this, the other vehicle fuse box and b+ power taps that were terminated to the battery cable stud on the starter now have to be relocated to b+ at the battery itself [most reliable, least resistance] or the b+ side of the newly installed remote.. the old starter wire from ignition switch circuit that was on the s sud on the starter gets moved to the stud on the new remote, the other side goes to a good ground.

so when the primary side of the new remote is closed [energized] the battery cable from the battery to the remote is connected to the battery cable from the remote to the starter.. and with the new jumper, the solenoid engages the bendix as the starter motor is energized..

isolate and energize the ignition, cranking can be accomplished under hood at the remote by jumping b+ to + term on remote, it should start if everything else is in order..

but as mentioned earlier, I would verify engine rotating group mechanically sound first.. if it cranks smoothly by hand it should crank smoothly by starter motor..

good luck!