Drag Link Angle-Level vs Spring

[aotte1]

Replacing the front axle in '64 K10 with newer Dana 44 from '79 K10 along with it's power steering components. Using the original front spring that are reconditioned, maybe, up to an 1 1/2" additional lift.

The drag link as installed is parrellel with the front spring angle. Posts here have reported the drag link should be installed parallel to the ground, while others suggest installing parallel to the front spring. Will post the angle on drag link tomorrow.

Seems like the spring angle will cause less change in steering as the axle moves up and down from road bumps? E.G. the axle and drag link move as one.

Thanks,
Les

[b454rat]

Draglink should be parrelel with the ground not the springs.....

[dieseldude4bt]

Paralle with the springs not the ground, It moves with the springs not the ground. You are trying to keep the angle the same as the spring moves through it's arc.

[b454rat]

I disagree. If the draglink is angled, say to the rear, the turning radius is gonna suck. It will turn further one way but not the other. Also what happens when the axle is flexing? If it's already angled to towards the rear, then it will go even farther being flexed, then won't be able to steer at all.

[74CustomK20]

Way I did it was get the springs and all on, then level it once at ride height... my $.02.

[ryanroo]

parallel to the ground it ideal. they work fine with a little lift and no correction.

[special-K]

It's not that critical. The whole idea of the drag link is to be articulated. Down angle from the steering box will help throw steering off all the more in more extreme angles. I couldn't tell you if any of my trucks had the drag link parallel with thr ground or springs. The ideal set-up is the drag link laying in line with both the steering arm and pitman arm. Depending on what springs you have, they can be negative arch to extreme positive. In all cases the idea geometry is straight in line with both ends.

I did a 4" lift on my '72 and used a 4" raised steering arm and it looks to me like the drag link runs uphill to the axle, as if it would have been just as off in the other direction if I left the stock arm on. They say springs can start off higher when new. If that's true, the angle will get worse and I'd be closer to in line with stock arm. The stock springs were so sagged I only had about an inch to the bump stops. I'm not too worried about it. I've driven them all different ways and did lifts before anyone ever thought about compensating the drag link angle. I feel they all steered the same. They say no drop arm is needed for 2-3" lift, so whatcha gonna?

[GSP7]

I have 4" skyjacker springs(20 years ago),looks a little more lift and arc to my springs than above picture

I have the 4" steering arm and my drag link is pretty much level. I had some bump steer when I first put the springs on and before I put the 4" steering arm on

Special K, are those rancho sprgs above pic? My old skyjackers are their 'smooth ride', has 5 leafs


.

[First c10]

The steering arms are for 4"-6" lifts, it will slop towards the pitman arm on a 4" and away from it on a 6". For the correct geometry on 4"or less lift a dropped pitman arm works best.

[special-K]

This is about the 12th 4" lift I've installed. I've used Burbank Spring, Rough Country, Rancho, Superlift, and most recently used Tuff Country Ez-Rides. The 4" lift arm was the only way to go and I feel still the best. It's the only non-moving part available and I don't like the idea of changing factory geometry on moving parts. Isn't that the who;e idea here, compensation for increased angle created by raising frame off of axles? When I first starting lifting trucks there was nothing available and people just dealt with bump steer. Then came the raised steering arm and that works best. If I was all that concerned with bump steer I would do cross over steering because by nature of design you will always get some even in stock configuration. I've never had bump steer so bad to give it any thought.

This time I went for bottom dollar and chose National Tire's Suspension Special with no shipping, which turned out to be Superlift, a quality company. The lift arm is for 4"-6", not 6" but will work for 4". It really doesn't make much difference, from my experience. That was the point I as trying to make. I am sure my truck will steer and handle just fine. I've done a good many 2" lifts with no steering compensation parts used and that worked out fine. Suspension and steering are designed to work with constant changes. I was giving advise, not asking for it . I feel the first statement above supports what I am saying and disagree with the second, based on my own experience

[First c10]

Special-K, was the comment "second post above" about my post? post #9 ?

[dieseldude4bt]

Originally Posted by dieseldude4bt

Paralle with the springs not the ground, It moves with the springs not the ground. You are trying to keep the angle the same as the spring moves through it's arc.

Let me explain my statement.
I don't install 4" and higher lifts, OP was asking about using latter axle on stock reached springs. I installed an '84 dana 60 under my '63 on the original springs
and wanted the drag link to be parallel to the springs so that as the slightly positive arched springs flattened and grew the drag link would also get longer in it's ark keeping changes to a minimum.
I have done the same thing on my '42 Dodge carryall with '93 springs and steering box it works for me.

[aotte1]

Measured my drag link angle, it is 11 degrees unloaded ( no body or engine,trans, etc.) . A few photos below. Again this is a '64 K10 with stock springs rearched, maybe 1 to 1 1/2". Have know idea how close to stock these 50 year old spring are now. From looking at the front spring rear shackle angle, trk may be raised some now, when built may be back to stock. The Dana 44 axle and power steering is all out of a '79 K10. Used Captain Fabs PS bracket. This application of the '64 frame/springs, along with the '79 axle/steering components, makes the drag link have more angle, because the '64 springs have more arch then stock '79s . The 60-66 K trucks sit higher then the 67-72 K trucks stock. Also, the location of the steering box in a '79, relative to a '64, may be different, making the drag link angle different too?

Thanks for all the comments, real world experience helps greatly, and agree, fully built trk drag link angle is how it will drive. Special K thanks for your photo, especially helpful. Do you have a similar photo of a stock '79ish K10?

May do a test as is, compressing each spring to represent suspension deflection and see how it effect steer ability. Will use one or two big tie down straps around spring and frame, to compress the suspension.

NOTE: Other trks built with Dana 44 have different steering arms and their lift or drop is different. Have one that is flat-ish, not lower as GMs are. Will try to find and post photo again. Photo is posted in different thread. Suggestion that it may be a 3/4 ton Ford Dana 44 from the mid 70s?? or International from other members here. Just a different option, if you need less steering arm change, then the 6" one provide.

[First c10]

Not sure if you can see mine. Dropped pitman arm.

[GSP7]

What brand tires are those?



I wrote "skyjacker" sprgs above. Where the hell did I get that. I meant Superlift sprgs

.

[First c10]

33/12.5 R15 Dick Cepek mud country on Alcoa 15 x 10 wheels
More info at my build thread

[GSP7]

The Tires on Aotte1's picture

[First c10]

Originally Posted by GSP7

The Tires on Aotte1's picture

Oops

[GSP7]

I knew yours were cepeks

[aotte1]

Toyo M55 235x85x16,

I was shown them by Kimble-" 61K10" his build near the end shows his, they are the same, just a different size 215x85x16.

I purchased mine on-line at a significant discount! They are kind of hard to find on the Toyo site. The pictured ones are 10 ply, they make them in 14 ply too. These are about 32" tall, may be a .1 or to taller.

Les

[GSP7]

Toyo M55

thanks, Ill read up on those