help with front brake drum removel

[cknfrmr]

Posting on main forum due to did not know how to move from projects. Sorry

I am having great difficulty getting the front drums off my 69 C10. What I have done so far is sprayed them with many different brands of lubricant and rust freeing junk over the last week. Have beat on them from front, sides and rear with no movement at all. Also tried heating them up many different times. Have also backed off the brake pad spanner. Even drilled out the retaining posts for the brakes shoes thinking that if there was a groove wore in them it would let the whole thing come off as whole. None of the above things have done anything. Does anyone know of something I've overlooked or missed? What have I done wrong. Any suggestions? Would like to thank you in advance for your time and knowledge. I'm loose my mind. All the videos on you tube they seem to come right off.

[midniteblues]

I've never seen them but I've read on here that the drums were rivited on through the face.
iirc there is 3 find them and drill them.

[FirstOwner69]

I'm not sure about C10s, but my C20 has the front drums riveted to the hubs. The whole thing has to be removed as an assembly.

[cknfrmr]

I'm going to check the drums for these rivets. Why would GM do this? So people had to go to the dealership? Thanks for this tip. My hammering arm is already feeling better.

[GR8-68]

Hello cknfrmr from your neighbor Mine slid right off after a tap with the hammer but those rivets they are talking about may have already been removed at some point in its life

[Mike C]

The OEM drums are riveted. And in order to do brakes with the OEM setup, you have to take the spindle nut loose and remove the hub.

[saxart]

Originally Posted by Mike C

The OEM drums are riveted. And in order to do brakes with the OEM setup, you have to take the spindle nut loose and remove the hub.

This!!!

Just did the same thing about a month ago. Used PB Blaster, wacked on them with a hammer, then thought, "OK, something is not right here" Researched here and found out the same info. Felt like an idiot!

Once you remove the hub nuts, the entire assembly will come off. After that, you grind off the tops of the rivets and use a hammer and punch to push them through. Didn't need to re-rivet for the reinstall. Not sure why Chevy did it this way.

[Gmc.guy]

I have heard they did it so that bearing service/adjustment was done at the same time but I'm not sure

[mike16]

rear drums on my 27 c10 are riveted

[cknfrmr]

I would like to again thank everyone for the help. After taking care of rivets they are off. Ground the flat with the plate they are attached to. Is it fine to leave them that way or do I need to drill the all the way out? They look like above pic. Yall are a awesome group of people.

[davepl]

My C2500 had a screw on each that serves some purpose for locking the drum to the hub, but I always wondered why since it can't be that strong.

Maybe just prevents them falling off on the line?

[GRX]

I would drill and/or punch them out and be done with them.

It was my understanding these drums were riveted to hold them on through rest of the assembly line since they were installed pretty early in the process.

[saxart]

Originally Posted by cknfrmr

I would like to again thank everyone for the help. After taking care of rivets they are off. Ground the flat with the plate they are attached to. Is it fine to leave them that way or do I need to drill the all the way out? They look like above pic. Yall are a awesome group of people.

You could probably leave them that way, but I drove them out with a hammer and punch just because it was a lot easier without the 3 rivets there getting in the way on the re-install. It's hard enough getting the drum back on with 6 wheel studs.