Can I add a pusher fan to stock set-up?

[ubtripn]

The only issue I can think of is I got the ac shroud which is deeper and as a result the fan is 1/2 from the rad but DEEP into the shroud. (I want ac one day) I could try different spacers.

[67ChevyRedneck]

Originally Posted by ubtripn

The only issue I can think of is I got the ac shroud which is deeper and as a result the fan is 1/2 from the rad but DEEP into the shroud. (I want ac one day) I could try different spacers.

A fan deep into a shroud isn't pulling the air out of the shroud, it's now just spinning it inside of the shroud. The fan blades should be about 2/3 in shroud, 1/3 out.

Correct factory placement (this is a heavy duty 4 row, 7 blade clutch fan set up):

[biketopia]

Originally Posted by 67ChevyRedneck

A fan deep into a shroud isn't pulling the air out of the shroud, it's now just spinning it inside of the shroud. The fan blades should be about 2/3 in shroud, 1/3 out.

Correct factory placement (this is a heavy duty 4 row, 7 blade clutch fan set up):

Exactly this, I saw where the OP mentioned his fan was way deep into the shroud, it needs to be out of the shroud some or it's not going to do you any good, as you've found out. I bet if you pick up the right shroud and have the correct fan and clutch for what you're doing your issues will be solved. Also get that timing checked and make sure you're not running a little lean on the carb settings, that will cause it to run hotter as well.

[midniteblues]

Originally Posted by 67ChevyRedneck

A fan deep into a shroud isn't pulling the air out of the shroud, it's now just spinning it inside of the shroud. The fan blades should be about 2/3 in shroud, 1/3 out.

Correct factory placement (this is a heavy duty 4 row, 7 blade clutch fan set up):

I agree.

A fan too close to the rad will just bounce the air off the rad and blow it back towards the engine. The air from the fan needs too go through the rad.

You did state that you feel a good amount blowing towards the engine.
Too close and it acts like it's blowing against a solid wall.

A clutch fan doesn't use spacers they have one built into the clutch.

I had this same problem after my BBC swap into my 67 with a long water pump and a new 4 core. The clutch of the fan was 1/2" from the rad and the blades were a lil' more than half way into the BBC shroud.

That's why I converted it too a short water pump setup.
After the swp conversion there was a drastic drop in running temps.

I do believe some fan clutches have different "depths". But I really don't think the difference in them will help you much cause your pretty deep in there.

And yes the timing can make a big difference in temps learned this the hard way after building the cammed 355 in my camaro.

Drive and tune,repeat,repeat,repeat till ya get it perfect.

[Stocker]

Originally Posted by 67ChevyRedneck

A fan deep into a shroud isn't pulling the air out of the shroud, it's now just spinning it inside of the shroud. The fan blades should be about 2/3 in shroud, 1/3 out.

Originally Posted by biketopia

Exactly this, I saw where the OP mentioned his fan was way deep into the shroud, it needs to be out of the shroud some or it's not going to do you any good, as you've found out.

Originally Posted by midniteblues

A fan too close to the rad will just bounce the air off the rad and blow it back towards the engine. The air from the fan needs too go through the rad.

You did state that you feel a good amount blowing towards the engine.
Too close and it acts like it's blowing against a solid wall.

A clutch fan doesn't use spacers they have one built into the clutch.

Agree with all of the above, these guys beat me to it but the fan really needs to be within the end of the shroud to be as effective as possible. As it is, there's air blowing out of the shroud but some of it is entering the same way it's getting out. Properly placed, the fan will pull maximum air through the radiator.