Anyone build a bed tool box out of wood?

[In The Ten Ring]

I really like having lots of tools along....but since I am not going to move my gas tank to the rear, I need a bed tool box.

I have a stepside with spare tire on the side, so I think I'll make my own. I cannot weld aluminum (not yet anyway) but I can use wood.

I'm thinking about using pine and staining it and top coating with polyurethane.....although cedar would be much better. Has anyone done this?

[jocko]

I have not. And not many have - and there's a reason for that, the wood will eventually rot, even with correct poly. Having said that, the decision depends on how much precip you expect to see. If very limited, then you just might get away with this idea - and the options would be endless. Highly recommend cedar over pine. Teak is another outdoor option, but you must clean the joints with acetone before gluing. If you're just gonna plop a ton of poly on it, then yes, an outdoor wood might not be as critical, but I'd still stick with a hardwood, at a minimum, such as walnut, cherry, or even oak. After assembly, I'd use what the bed wood manufacturers recommend as a top coat - I've seen some recommend spar/marine varnish - or use the type that Curtis Craft wooden boats use to coat their wood - that outta last a while! Good luck, looking fwd to seeing what you come up with.http://www.westmarine.com/WestAdvisor/Wood-Finishes

[special-K]

Back in the '70s it seemed most guys built their own and few bought the painted steel saddle boxes mostly made by the utility body companies. Most used whatever was laying around, but I wanted mine to be nice looking and show my pride in workmanship. I used 1x4 t&g cedar. The top had a little slope down to the rear and it overlapped the three sides. The hinged side (front) had a strip of rubber cut from an inner tube as a flap across the seem. It was made same as the manufactured ones to span above the floor to allow longer materials to slide under and to not rot the bed floor. I just used an oil on it and kept that up regularly. I used that box for quite a few years. But eventually I went store bought with the white enamels Reading boxes. Then got into painting body color when the trucks got even nicer. Then a little pinstripe...then....

[Grumpy old man]

I just use Heineken case boxes .....daily !

[In The Ten Ring]

Thanks guys. I won't do this any time soon......but I really want to carry the extra tools I carry around in my car.

By that time I should have gotten a router and learned how to cut tongue and groove joints.

[CastIron]

I haven't built a toolbox, but I've built a lot of other things with wood. There is all sorts of types of wood that would work, but the key is to put a good finish on it. A marine type finish would hold up best.
I'm not sure cedar would be a good choice. It may be naturally rot resistant, but it is a relatively soft wood. It doesn't machines as well as most other woods.
By the way, you don't need a router to make tongue and groove boards. I use my tablesaw for that. It's much faster and easier.

[In The Ten Ring]

I have never worked with cedar....all of my projects have been pine and staining, poly coating, and everything inside.

Would oak work better, stained and poly coated or this marine coating you mentioned?

[CastIron]

Originally Posted by In The Ten Ring

I have never worked with cedar....all of my projects have been pine and staining, poly coating, and everything inside.

Would oak work better, stained and poly coated or this marine coating you mentioned?

Cedar would probably work, (as well as redwood or cypress) but there are better woods available. White oak (not the more common red oak) would probably work well. It's available at woodworking stores. There's also ipe, honduran mahogany, and teak. They are all very good for outdoor projects, but they aren't inexpensive.
I personally don't have any experience with outdoor finishes (besides paint). I do know that most clear finishes will need to be redone ever few years if they see much weather.

[notsolo]

A little off topic, but I'll shoot myself in the foot anyway. Build a Azek PVC box and cover it / laminate wood over it, Waterproof. Best of both worlds.

[In The Ten Ring]

That's a good idea, thanks!

My dad built (at my suggestion, actually) his rear deck out of that "plastic wood" and it has held up wonderfully. It has sun faded but never the first rot or splinter.

Can you hit the thread with a link to this material and the PVC frame? Maybe some pics?

Nevermind! I think I found it. I guess I would still need to build a wooden frame though, right?

http://azek.com/products/decking/vin...ing-collection

[dmjlambert]

That is interesting stuff. If it is PVC I wonder if you could just miter cut the boards and use PVC glue to melt it together, the same acetone-based stuff used in plumbing. Then you would have a frameless box that looks like wood.

[special-K]

Azek and similar composite materials aren't structural. You could frame a tool box in wood and cover it. It would also be heavy and gouge/scar really easily. I used cedar because that was what I had. It worked well. We didn't have Ipe or other woods they use today for outdoor flooring.

[Ruscal]

Many years ago I built one out of teak plywood. I don't remember if I put polyurethane or oil on it, but it looked nice for the two years I owned it.
My truck now has a weatherguard aluminum box that is polished and clearcoated. I have no idea how long the clear will hold up. The box is handy and easy to access with the lock button on the driver's side. Doesn't have the rich look of wood though, but is light weight.
Russ

[notsolo]

As special-K said Azek is not structural, it can be routed glued and shaped. Comes in 4 x 8 sheets in white, 3/8-1/2- 3/4.. I built a box to cover a crawl space door. The edges need to be treated / painted if exposed, mine turned a bit green-mossy. I built support in, glued extra pieces under the lid. I also used it for the side panels in the rear of my blazer. Needs to be scuffed and adhesion promoter used if your going to paint it.