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Old 03-12-2004, 02:12 AM   #1
LudwigTheMad
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P/S conversion

what is involved in doing a conversion from manual to power steering.......


I know that I would have to change the gear box........and add a pump...


but any other mods..???
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Old 03-12-2004, 02:25 AM   #2
Alexis
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gear box and pump, also a power steering pitman arm.
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Old 03-12-2004, 03:02 AM   #3
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You'll need new kanibler pins too. And don't forget that the new power to effort ratio will have a negative effect on the thrust convertor, which as we all know, requires re-balancing the muffler bearings. After that, slap a little bear grease on 'er, and you'll being going sideways before you can say "Where are us?".

Sorry, when I see your name, it makes me think crazy, LOL!

What are you working on anyway? Did you find yourselves a Burb?
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Old 03-12-2004, 03:04 AM   #4
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I'm not intentionally highjacking your post Ludwig, but I too am interested in this conversion BUT I have a 67 & I understand that frame mods are necessary - T or F?
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Old 03-12-2004, 03:30 AM   #5
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pass the buck- True, there are kit out there for 66 and below that convert to the new stlye power steering boxes. I say 66 and below cause the frame are the same as early 67's. Or you can do what WES did and heat the metal and take a hammer to it.
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Old 03-12-2004, 03:42 AM   #6
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Barn9, would that be before or after you underdrive the overrater by reversing the re-reverser, of course rotating 360 degrees for maximum thrust of the minimal thurst torque reverser. Not to mention re calibrating the unmovible cabitualator pins locatied in the oil re-refiner.

And for good mesure, when you do this type of thing, you should always change your headlamp fluid (I recomend the halogen type B), the belts on your carb and regrease the aniti-sway bar on your radiator.

got any recomendations for adding a second transmition and steering wheel??

BY THE WAY; You can't "Hijack" a post from me....I have installed anti terrorist doors.

also interested in any mods needed that involve frame, inner wheel wells etc...........or ist really only the above mentioned....(not doubting you, just prefer as much info as possible....

9 out of 10 personalities agree that research is the best preperation for making a modification/conversion.....

the 10th one is currently lighting a chilton's soaked in gas on fire!! WAIT A MINUTE....WHO GAVE HIM MATCHES...............!!!!!! LOOK OUT!!!!!


MOORE INFO ON FRAME MOD PLEASE.....like why you have to do it.....clearence issue on gear box???? or does this only apply to certain years..

No I don't have a project yet......still saving/looking for one....cook's burb is a candidate (68) yet I need to have P/S P/B for the wife....

while we are at it....standard to auto trans.....the hump should be big enought to handle clearence right??? (it's been so long, I don't remember which way (auto to stick or stick to auto) that was the more difficult....
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Last edited by LudwigTheMad; 03-12-2004 at 03:47 AM.
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Old 03-12-2004, 11:08 AM   #7
Longhorn Man
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On the 2 wheel drive frames, the 67 and 68 needs a small dimple 'installed'...a BFH and a little heat makes it easy. The later power steering gear box needs this for clearance.
Some ppl have just put shims under the gear box mounting bolts, but this puts undue stress on the bolts, and also turns the wheels a little so you end up driving on the softer "turning" portion of the gears instead of the hardened "straight ahead" portion. This would also make the alignmet guy cuss if you did it with washers. I'm sure some one will reply saying they have done the washers mount plan and had no problems, but it is a problem waiting to arise.
The 67 - 68 trucks did have an optional power assist steering, but it was the failure prone ram assist set up (think early vette) and they are hard to come by...esp working ones.
This pic shows where the frame needs to be dented. It is kinda hard to see in this pic, but the lower forward hole, look just above it and back a little, you can see the dent needed.
If we are talking 4X4, then I have no friggen clue on any of this.
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Old 03-12-2004, 08:55 PM   #8
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Thank you!!!!!!!
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Old 03-12-2004, 09:41 PM   #9
72 CustomCamper
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Hey Ludwig, my uncle did a ps conversion on my grandfather's old 70 and said it was a piece of cake. If you use a pump and hose set up from our style trucks you should have to worry about the inner fenders. If you use a 73-77 style pump and hoses you will have to bend the inner fender to clear the ps hoses...


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Old 03-13-2004, 05:52 PM   #10
Vince M
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I thought I read somewhere that the front left bumper bracket had to be notched to clear the steering box.
Good to see your still around. Haven't seen you posting in a while. How's that Cali weather compared to MN.
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Old 03-13-2004, 10:01 PM   #11
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When I converted my 68 burb to P/S, I had to notch somthing under there, I just can't remember if it was the bumper bracket or what.
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Old 03-13-2004, 10:25 PM   #12
68 Suburban
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Quote:
Originally posted by Longhorn Man
On the 2 wheel drive frames, the 67 and 68 needs a small dimple 'installed'...
The 67 - 68 trucks did have an optional power assist steering, but it was the failure prone ram assist set up (think early vette) and they are hard to come by...esp working ones.
Correction.... Early 68's did not have the dimple and used the ram style. Later 68's had the dimple and used the newer type power steering.

My burb has the dimple (and now the newer style PS), but it came with the ram style power steering. I did not see PS on the glove box sticker, so I think the dealer might have installed it. My Burb was made in 11/67 and it has the dimple.
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Old 03-13-2004, 11:06 PM   #13
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Ok, do I have this correct? I just did this swap on my '67 C-20, and used spacers, aprox 1/2". Seems to work ok, but am I asking for trouble? I'm willing to use the heat/ BFH method, but will I risk bending the whole frame? I've only test driven it a few miles, so hopefully I havn't done any harm. BTW, I also installed a new ididit tilt, and it's GREAT!!!
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Old 03-13-2004, 11:11 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally posted by Vince M
I thought I read somewhere that the front left bumper bracket had to be notched to clear the steering box.
Good to see your still around. Haven't seen you posting in a while. How's that Cali weather compared to MN.
Vince, I did have to grind a little off the driver's side bumper bracket where it meets the frame, but it was no big deal. Just a few minutes on the bench grinder.
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Old 03-13-2004, 11:11 PM   #15
68 Suburban
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Quote:
Originally posted by Dave67
Ok, do I have this correct? I just did this swap on my '67 C-20, and used spacers, aprox 1/2". Seems to work ok, but am I asking for trouble? I'm willing to use the heat/ BFH method, but will I risk bending the whole frame? I've only test driven it a few miles, so hopefully I havn't done any harm. BTW, I also installed a new ididit tilt, and it's GREAT!!!
Spacer will take the steering geometry out of line. Hitting the frame with a hammer will weekend your frame in that area. take your pick
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Old 03-14-2004, 02:46 AM   #16
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The following is needed for a late 68-72 manual to power steering conversion. Power steering gearbox, pump, bracket, hoses, hose to frame clamp & a power steering to intermediate shaft coupler.
For 1967 & early 1968 frames you need all of the above and a power steering gearbox frame adapter to keep your steering geometry correct but still allow the box to bolt to the frame properly. Using spacers without reinforcing the backside of frame will make it prone to cracking the frame at bolt holes, and heating the frame then beating on it with a BFH will weaken the frame in what is considered a crictical mounting point as alot of pressure is exerted on the bolts of a power steering gearbox as you turn the steering wheel.
All will require the drivers side end of outer bumper bracket to be trimmed off at the end of the bracket to clear the larger power steering gearbox.
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Old 03-15-2004, 10:44 AM   #17
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way to go guys!!!!!

to me....a little fun, and a great resource...what this board is all about.
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