Eldebrock 1406 help!!!! - Page 2 - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

BLACK AND BLUE 67-72 · 03-15-2004, 04:02 AM

Yes and they all have the normal color to them except one on the drivers side 3rd from the front, which has ash deposits on it from a leaking valve seal.

casey · 03-15-2004, 04:42 AM

did you check your fuel pump, if the diafram in it has a small hole it will leak raw gas out of it, that might be the gas smell look at the fuel pump when it is running to see if you can see any gas leaking from it, and maybe when it stalls on you its the carb starving for gas cause the fuel pump isn't working right, does it stall under load, just a wild guess here

ZOOMY · 03-15-2004, 06:14 AM

Just because you cleaned the needle & seat doesn't mean they are OK. There is pressure there that they have to hold back. Also, see if you can borrow a fuel pressure gauge from your local parts supply & check the pressure. Edels don't like alot of pressure. When you have the float out, make sure they aren't heavy with fuel. Like Bill said, I wouldn't mess with the mixture until you're sure the float level isn't too high.

BLACK AND BLUE 67-72 · 03-15-2004, 03:02 PM

I am 100% positive it is not the floats or needles, they were fine floats were empty and light and I did EXACTLY as the book said about adjusting them to 7/16", I removed the needles and cleaned everything, then reassembled everything. This carb has done this ever since I bought it new. The gas smell is not a leak I am 100% positive, you can smell it out of the exhaust it smells like an engine that is running too rich. The carb doesn't starve out it will Load up and die, but not often my main problem is how rich it is running and useing more gas than it should. As far as the pressure goes I have no way to tell, because the parts stores don't have a guage to borrow, and I would hate to buy one and that not be the problem.

Yellow Cheyenne · 03-15-2004, 06:37 PM

Couple of things. There shouldn't be mud or sludge in your float bowls. If you have that, I would suspect something wrong with your filter and you may have other debris somewhere else in the carb. Summit makes a neat filter housing that has a guage on it that bolts directly to your carb fuel input.

"The carb doesn't starve out it will Load up and die, but not often".

Does this happen more often if you are sitting and idling in hot weather? I had trouble with heat boiling out the gas in the carb after I shut it off in hot weather. I put a phenolic spacer between carb and aluminum intake to correct most of that problem. Also look at the routing of the fuel line. If it runs too close go too many heat sources, it may be trying to boil the gas before it gets to the carb. As far as going to smaller rods than you already have, you have to look at the size of the rod in relation to the jet. Look at the difference between the rod and the jet (Jet size minus rod size equals the opening). If you reduce the jet size but leave the same rod in, it will be leaner.

BLACK AND BLUE 67-72 · 03-15-2004, 11:41 PM

No most usually it loads up in the cooler weather, choke on or off it doesn't matter. However it does not do this often, it is the richness I am concerned with, I don't want to wash my cylinders down. My lines are plenty far enough from the heat sources.

Lester · 03-16-2004, 02:51 PM

Edelbrock carbs are very sensitive to excessive fuel pressure. If your carb is plumbed right to the stock fuel pump this is your problem. You need to purchase a Holley 4to9 psi regulator ($25) and install it between the pump and the carb. It comes set at 6 psi so you will need to get a pressure gauge and set it to 5.5 psi. This will stop your funny up and down idle problem, the gas odor and black smoke form the exhaust.

After you install the regulator you will need to pull the plugs and clen them. Once the engine is warm you will need to rest the idle mix because its likely set wrong. If you don't clean the plugs and reset the idle mix this fix won't really be of much benefit right off.

This is in the instruction manual kind of as btw rather than a required part of the install.

A 1406 has an electric choke and if its not connected to 12v of power at the fuse block then the choke will not burn off completely giving you similar problem, gas odor, rough running and black smoke.

Stock engines don't require you to rejet the carb.

Good luck.

03-15-2004, 04:02 AM	#26
BLACK AND BLUE 67-72 Firefighter Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: Yellville, Ar, USA Posts: 1,943	Yes and they all have the normal color to them except one on the drivers side 3rd from the front, which has ash deposits on it from a leaking valve seal. __________________ '72 Chevy SWB 350 Auto '67 GMC LWB 350 4 speed '70 Chevy 4x4 Stepside 350 Auto Yellville, Ar. USA

03-15-2004, 06:14 AM	#28
ZOOMY Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: WIS Posts: 1,752	needle & seat Just because you cleaned the needle & seat doesn't mean they are OK. There is pressure there that they have to hold back. Also, see if you can borrow a fuel pressure gauge from your local parts supply & check the pressure. Edels don't like alot of pressure. When you have the float out, make sure they aren't heavy with fuel. Like Bill said, I wouldn't mess with the mixture until you're sure the float level isn't too high.

03-15-2004, 03:02 PM	#29
BLACK AND BLUE 67-72 Firefighter Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: Yellville, Ar, USA Posts: 1,943	I am 100% positive it is not the floats or needles, they were fine floats were empty and light and I did EXACTLY as the book said about adjusting them to 7/16", I removed the needles and cleaned everything, then reassembled everything. This carb has done this ever since I bought it new. The gas smell is not a leak I am 100% positive, you can smell it out of the exhaust it smells like an engine that is running too rich. The carb doesn't starve out it will Load up and die, but not often my main problem is how rich it is running and useing more gas than it should. As far as the pressure goes I have no way to tell, because the parts stores don't have a guage to borrow, and I would hate to buy one and that not be the problem. __________________ '72 Chevy SWB 350 Auto '67 GMC LWB 350 4 speed '70 Chevy 4x4 Stepside 350 Auto Yellville, Ar. USA

03-15-2004, 06:37 PM	#30
Yellow Cheyenne Registered User Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Eastern Kansas Posts: 488	Couple of things. There shouldn't be mud or sludge in your float bowls. If you have that, I would suspect something wrong with your filter and you may have other debris somewhere else in the carb. Summit makes a neat filter housing that has a guage on it that bolts directly to your carb fuel input. "The carb doesn't starve out it will Load up and die, but not often". Does this happen more often if you are sitting and idling in hot weather? I had trouble with heat boiling out the gas in the carb after I shut it off in hot weather. I put a phenolic spacer between carb and aluminum intake to correct most of that problem. Also look at the routing of the fuel line. If it runs too close go too many heat sources, it may be trying to boil the gas before it gets to the carb. As far as going to smaller rods than you already have, you have to look at the size of the rod in relation to the jet. Look at the difference between the rod and the jet (Jet size minus rod size equals the opening). If you reduce the jet size but leave the same rod in, it will be leaner. __________________ '72 Cheyenne. AC, PS, PB, Rear slider window, tilt. Light yellow (grapefruit yellow according to new sales literature from '72) '56 Chevy short step V-8 (My dad bought it new!!) '70 Olds 442 convertible '70 Olds Rallye 350 Last edited by Yellow Cheyenne; 03-15-2004 at 06:41 PM.

03-15-2004, 11:41 PM	#31
BLACK AND BLUE 67-72 Firefighter Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: Yellville, Ar, USA Posts: 1,943	No most usually it loads up in the cooler weather, choke on or off it doesn't matter. However it does not do this often, it is the richness I am concerned with, I don't want to wash my cylinders down. My lines are plenty far enough from the heat sources. __________________ '72 Chevy SWB 350 Auto '67 GMC LWB 350 4 speed '70 Chevy 4x4 Stepside 350 Auto Yellville, Ar. USA

03-15-2004, 04:42 AM	#27
casey Registered User Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Kelowna B.C. Canada Posts: 2,048	did you check your fuel pump, if the diafram in it has a small hole it will leak raw gas out of it, that might be the gas smell look at the fuel pump when it is running to see if you can see any gas leaking from it, and maybe when it stalls on you its the carb starving for gas cause the fuel pump isn't working right, does it stall under load, just a wild guess here

03-16-2004, 02:51 PM	#32
Lester Registered User Join Date: Oct 2002 Posts: 84	Before you change the carb try this.. Edelbrock carbs are very sensitive to excessive fuel pressure. If your carb is plumbed right to the stock fuel pump this is your problem. You need to purchase a Holley 4to9 psi regulator ($25) and install it between the pump and the carb. It comes set at 6 psi so you will need to get a pressure gauge and set it to 5.5 psi. This will stop your funny up and down idle problem, the gas odor and black smoke form the exhaust. After you install the regulator you will need to pull the plugs and clen them. Once the engine is warm you will need to rest the idle mix because its likely set wrong. If you don't clean the plugs and reset the idle mix this fix won't really be of much benefit right off. This is in the instruction manual kind of as btw rather than a required part of the install. A 1406 has an electric choke and if its not connected to 12v of power at the fuse block then the choke will not burn off completely giving you similar problem, gas odor, rough running and black smoke. Stock engines don't require you to rejet the carb. Good luck.



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