Shorten chassis with engine and trans in

[Mickey3100]

Hi All,

Starting my new project. I have a 1952 Chevy 1/2 ton that I want to put on an S10 chassis I have. The S10 is extended cab so I know I will need to shorten frame. Two questions: Can I shorten the frame with the engine and trans in place? I want to use them in the swap and would rather not remove. 2nd: What about shortening the 2-piece driveshaft? Do I use the existing driveshaft or have one made?

Thanks.

I have been enjoying the different threads here regarding this swap.

[joedoh]

Originally Posted by Mickey3100

Hi All,

Starting my new project. I have a 1952 Chevy 1/2 ton that I want to put on an S10 chassis I have. The S10 is extended cab so I know I will need to shorten frame. Two questions: Can I shorten the frame with the engine and trans in place? I want to use them in the swap and would rather not remove. 2nd: What about shortening the 2-piece driveshaft? Do I use the existing driveshaft or have one made?

Thanks.

I have been enjoying the different threads here regarding this swap.

yes, you have to be more judicious with your jack stands and leveling method because of the weight, but it will work fine, the factory frame splice is behind the trans crossmember.

shortening the two piece is not a good idea, by the time you shorten it for the frame length and then shorten it some more for the engine/trans moving back 7-8 inches, you will end up either shortening both pieces ($$$) or you will end up with one really short piece.

better to replace it with a shortened 98-03 S10 standrd cab longbed driveshaft, they are one piece to begin with and 4" diameter aluminum. make sure the rear yoke matches your rear end! they changed in around 2000 to a 4 bolt flange.

[mr48chev]

He gave a pretty good set of instructions to follow. to add to that when you get all level and on stands take some measurements from reference points on the frame to the floor in a few spots and write them down. When you slide the back half forward that might help you make sure that it is still level along with using the level and tape.

Just cut though the outer layer close to the welds when you cut it apart and then you can slide the back half back and either trim it or just clean things up an then slide it forward inside the frame rails until you get it to the right wheel base.

[av8tr33337]

Here is what I did. I am not using the V6 so not sure about any of that. I I would just make sure you have everything level and strait especially when you weld it all back together. Good Luck!


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vno1lJrloio

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cdgYy5YtW8k

[mr48chev]

I forgot to put measure it for square before you get serious about the welding. Again pick reference points ( this time that match on each side of the frame and measure it in an X pattern to be sure it is all square.

[MiraclePieCo]

Originally Posted by mr48chev

I forgot to put measure it for square before you get serious about the welding. Again pick reference points ( this time that match on each side of the frame and measure it in an X pattern to be sure it is all square.

Trouble with leaving the engine in, you can't measure an X pattern corner-to-corner on the frame with the engine in the way.


.

[mongocanfly]

And to add once you've got it that far your only talking a couple more bolts and a few minutes to pull the engine and trans..will make life much easier to do all your squaring and welding if you can roll that sucker over to do your final welding..roll it back and then simply set engine trans back in...although I've shortened several frames in my time with the cab,engine,trans and rear still in place without rolling.

[joedoh]

well, its easy if you have a place for it all to sit, and want to take all the exhaust and fuel lines off. I think I see where he is coming from. I see where you are coming from too, a man usually finds his destiny on the road he takes to avoid it (thats from kung fu panda haha)

I will say it will all come loose, engine trans exhaust and fuel lines, to move it all back so it fits in the AD engine compartment. but you can do that roughly in place on the frame too.

Originally Posted by MiraclePieCo

Trouble with leaving the engine in, you can't measure an X pattern corner-to-corner on the frame with the engine in the way.

there is a factory joint on an s10, its not impossible to get it out of square but you would have to try pretty hard, because of how the rear section fits into the front. its certainly not like cutting a frame in half and trying to butt weld it together. I took a statics class a long time ago and got interested in frames, so I built a 3/4 frame reusing the front clip, I did it with the motor and trans in place by welding it to a jig I built under the original frame that located all the body mounts and main rails.

here is a picture, you can see the jig I welded under the frame with all the pins that set the center and height of the body mounts. the rear axle is temp welded to the jig, and you can see the main rails laid in and attached to the front clip.

[mongocanfly]

Yep joedoh...sometimes I forget there are folks that are limited in the amount of space they have to work in..