Help on 4 Link install, Pics? Pointers?

[Fiftee3]

Thanks guys...
Good reading there Mongo,
So I am level with ground, great. In that post it also says to have it as straight with frame as you can. I cut off the forward mounts to get them more straight, and angled better. In the second photo, if the forward mounts are inward slightly like in photo, is this ok?
I would move the rear housing mount more inbound, however, because ford 9" tube on drivers side is closer to frame to center pinion, this is where it would be.
I should be ok, yes???
And by the way slammed, your build is terrific...checked it out last week.

On a final note, I just wish we all used our first names instead of our screen names...I always sign out with Phil. So much easier and more personal/friendly.
Would rather call u Bill or Steve than slammed or mongocanfly!

[slammed57]

Hey Phil, I agree with you on knowing names .. Mine is mike.

Not sure if iam following your question. Not sure from looking your picture#2 , is your frame flaring out? or is it running straight back ( not sure if the red line is throwing me off).. if the frame rail is true straight the you want to keep the 4 link bars parallel with the frame from side to side . if not it could cause bidding issues. as for the rear end you need to have the tires with the same clearance from the frame on both sides..I never really used a ford 9 in rear end before and not to familiar with the housing being off set.. might need to ask someone that uses them or done a few

[b-mac]

Hey, Brandon the attempted thread hijacker here:
Thought you might like to know my triangulated 4-link turned out too.

[mongocanfly]

Phil..me be Greg..I'm sure you've probably done all this if you measured as much as you say but ill try to double check this..you've got the axle in, it needs centered between the frame rails,, its easier if you tack weld tubing from the frame to the axle housing and brace it so it cant move to hold it in perfect alignment while you setting up your links..don't let the offset ford rear mess with your mind,, measure hub to hub and find your true axle center and that mark should be centered between frame rails..your 4 link bars should be as far out towards the frame rails as you can get them without clearance issues,, they should be perfectly parralel side to side with each other..if your frame has taper dont go by that just get the bars straight..with truck at ride height you want your bottom bar level with the ground..you may have done all this but its better to double check

[mongocanfly]

Hey thread jacker brandon..don't confuse him more than he already is by showing him one of them new fangled upside 4-links...haha

[Fiftee3]

Mike, yes, frame flares out. The long red line was just to ask if I should cut more by red arrows to get 4 link bars more straight. However, its kind of an illusion because frame is sitting in my garage on slight angle. I'm going to check with a t-square off of rear tube tonight to see how straight bars are. Actually, I think I'm good.
Thanks Greg, yes, It is sitting very sturdy on jack stands and I welded two plate steel pieces to hold it there. I'm centered to the best of my 55 year old eyes!
Thanks Guys....

[Fiftee3]

PS / Brandon, see your coming along there. Glad you got it figured out. Good luck...
Also, hard to tell by picture, but you have enough driveshaft clearance under that support bar?

[mongocanfly]

Phil ..skip the t square and find a point and the end of each bar ( probably the center of the rod ends) and measure diagnally..much more accurate...

[Rude Dude]

I think your pinon angle is to high your gonna have issues with coilovers mounting. When triangulated bars are set for rear end and if frame is level the transmission should be pointing down around 2 to 3 degrees and the yoke of the rear on a 4 link should be pointing up about 0 to 1 degrees. This adjustment on bars well be at mid point and not be screwed all the way for correction.

Originally Posted by b-mac

Hey, Brandon the attempted thread hijacker here:
Thought you might like to know my triangulated 4-link turned out too.

[Fiftee3]

Thanks Greg, appreciate all the help. Will do it that way. This is a big undertaking for me. Have never ventured into anything like this on my own, but I am enjoying it!

[slammed57]

Hey phil.. just make sure the 4 link bars are square with the axle and square from each other on both sides.. you might try getting a 4 or 5 foot 2x4 square tubing or angle iron and c clamp it to where the frame is true straight goin on back to where your 4 link is to give you another reference point... or a lazer level can work too if you can get your hands on one.. as for the pinion angle.. try your best to get it in the ball park range wuth a degree finder ( can get one from harbour frieght for like 6 bucks). Your 4 link bars have adjustable ends so you can fine tune it. Also make sure the rear axle is square.. and same distance on both sides measuring from the the front hubs on center.. i moved my axle back a 1/2 inch further just because it looked more centered in the wheel wells and help track better on the freeway

[Fiftee3]

Thanks Mike! Will do. You know, Sunday I was out there for like 3 hours. Tappin, movin, adjusting, etc! Back was killing me. Just when you think you have it, now, laser levels!
Now I'm afraid to weld anything! Ha ha!!! You know, the real scary part is when you said measure from the front hubs. First I thought why didn't I think of that, then I thought holy ****, what if I welded the front crossmember in crooked!!! I'm gonna tackle it this weekend hopefully! You guys are great!

[dsraven]

for starters, it is a good idea to check the frame for square and straight.check corner to corner for square first gm says 1/8" is allowable for off square dimension. then it is best to run a line or laser down the midpoint of the frame, side to side,so it will be a front to rear reference point for side to side stuff. start at the rear and make a midpoint mark on a piece of tape on the crossmember, then go to the front and do the same. when a laser or string is laid out between those points you will be able to tell if the frame has a sway up and down or side to side. gm has frame reference points set out for checking stuff like that and they are on the frame blueprint, if you have a manual, or just google it. that is the best way to ensure the front end is welded in straight and also to get the diff in the right spot. without doing all that, maybe you have the cab and box on already, you can also measure from the front spring hanger hole in the frame on each side to see if the diff is square.

[Fiftee3]

Thank you all for your input. Don't mean to beat a dead horse here, but I'm stuck here still. Maybe I'm overthinking.
So, I found manual specs and "x" measured accordingly. All looks good. My rear is centered. Pinion good. Cross measurements good. Checked measurement from center forward rear spring perch that I removed. Good. Also measured from rear spring perch. Good.
Here's the quandary...
One side visually looks further back when looking at the two rivets in the rear fenders.
It appears by my measurements one fender is off by 1/2 inch. Can they be moved forward or back that much?
Should I just go by my frame measurements that look good and start welding? Worrying about fenders later? Sorry, just don't want to screw this up...

[slammed57]

Check your pm. Send you a message

[mongocanfly]

Check the squareness of the bed with the x method as well..reguardless of the bed you want to keep your suspension square with the frame..