383 stroker running too hot - Page 2 - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

leftybass209 · 08-16-2016, 10:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bstock1962

Lefty, I agree about the radiator. My original thought was to replace it with a 4 core. My current radiator doesn't have a trans cooler built in, so that's why the cooler you see in the picture is there. If I install a 4 core aluminum with built in trans cooler, can I get rid of the little unit blocking my air flow? Or is it still needed in addition to the radiator for TH400 cooling? If so, another reason to upgrade to a 4 core.

In the mean time, going to install this new fan clutch which should definitely increase my air flow.

If I replace the radiator, also going to drill the 1/8" hole in the thermostat at the same time. Will also re-adjust the total timing down to 36.

Do some research on 4 row vs 2 row in regards to tube size. For me, a 2 row champion with 1 inch tubes was more effective than a 4 row. 4 row radiators require different top and bottom brackets. The bottoms are riveted, so it would be a little more difficult to do in the truck, but still doable.

**Stocker** · 08-16-2016, 10:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by leftybass209

Do some research on 4 row vs 2 row in regards to tube size. For me, a 2 row champion with 1 inch tubes was more effective than a 4 row. 4 row radiators require different top and bottom brackets. The bottoms are riveted, so it would be a little more difficult to do in the truck, but still doable.

On that note, here's something borrowed from a thread from a couple years back. Seems like a fitting time & place to post it again.

bstock1962 · 08-17-2016, 08:59 PM

Ok, update: New fan clutch made a big difference. Thank you Stocker!

Temps dropped to 215 at the thermostat housing, 210 top of radiator, and 185 at the bottom. This is with the AC blasting too and 95 degrees outside. I attached a photo of the bad fan clutch. Notice the thermal spring is missing.

Now I want to get greedy and get rid of the transmission cooler blocking air flow. I'm tempted to strap it too the inside of the grill instead of attached to the AC condenser. That would look crappy! I think temps could drop even more with it gone though.

So I guess I would still need a new radiator with cooler built in. Leaning heavy towards a 4 core. Until then, I can drive in in the high heat now!

**Stocker** · 08-17-2016, 09:54 PM

That's great news, I'm glad you saw a big improvement! Your old fan clutch was a standard duty, not correct for your application. And with it out, it looks pretty grimy, and has probably been losing fluid for a long time.

bstock1962 · 08-29-2016, 10:09 PM

Ok, another update and question. I went ahead and replaced the radiator with a 4 core aluminum. That took my temps down to 180-190 at the thermostat housing...very nice. I still have a little fuel boiling (percolating) problem in the carb but I have a spacer on the way to isolate the carb from the intake heat. There currently is no spacer.

Now, for a dumb question...my old radiator was painted black and probably the same way, but is the radiator supposed to tilt back a little at the top (instead of being mostly vertical) ? Actually it seems like the entire engine etc all tilts back a little (see photo). Is this pretty standard or do I have some sort of overall alignment problem? Thank you!

snipescastle2 · 08-30-2016, 08:37 AM

The factory did that intentionally. As the engine/transmission is at an angle for the driveline alignment. The black paint on the factory radiator was probably there to prevent corrosion, in my opinion, it would effect the heat transfer, otherwise, I'd say you're set and nothing to worry about.
Ben

Posted via Mobile Device

leftybass209 · 08-30-2016, 10:34 AM

Glad to hear you solved the issue!

Your radiator angle is fine. Any paint on a radiator is not a conventional paint, but rather a coating that doesn't inhibit the heat transfer of a radiator, and it's certainly not needed for aluminum.

bstock1962 · 08-30-2016, 01:20 PM

Forgot to mention too, I did get rid of the tranny aux cooler attached to the front of the AC condenser. Attached the cooling lines to the new radiator, and it seems to be cooling the th400 just fine.

Thanks to all! Great forum with outstanding suggestions! Hope I can contribute something in the future.

08-17-2016, 08:59 PM	#28
bstock1962 Registered User Join Date: Aug 2016 Location: Idaho Posts: 42	Re: 383 stroker running too hot Ok, update: New fan clutch made a big difference. Thank you Stocker! Temps dropped to 215 at the thermostat housing, 210 top of radiator, and 185 at the bottom. This is with the AC blasting too and 95 degrees outside. I attached a photo of the bad fan clutch. Notice the thermal spring is missing. Now I want to get greedy and get rid of the transmission cooler blocking air flow. I'm tempted to strap it too the inside of the grill instead of attached to the AC condenser. That would look crappy! I think temps could drop even more with it gone though. So I guess I would still need a new radiator with cooler built in. Leaning heavy towards a 4 core. Until then, I can drive in in the high heat now! Attached Images

08-17-2016, 09:54 PM	#29
Stocker 20' Daredevil (Ret) Join Date: May 2003 Location: Jefferson State Posts: 13,594	Re: 383 stroker running too hot That's great news, I'm glad you saw a big improvement! Your old fan clutch was a standard duty, not correct for your application. And with it out, it looks pretty grimy, and has probably been losing fluid for a long time. __________________ - Mike - 1972 K20 LWB 350/350/205 RIP El Jay

08-29-2016, 10:09 PM	#30
bstock1962 Registered User Join Date: Aug 2016 Location: Idaho Posts: 42	Re: 383 stroker running too hot Ok, another update and question. I went ahead and replaced the radiator with a 4 core aluminum. That took my temps down to 180-190 at the thermostat housing...very nice. I still have a little fuel boiling (percolating) problem in the carb but I have a spacer on the way to isolate the carb from the intake heat. There currently is no spacer. Now, for a dumb question...my old radiator was painted black and probably the same way, but is the radiator supposed to tilt back a little at the top (instead of being mostly vertical) ? Actually it seems like the entire engine etc all tilts back a little (see photo). Is this pretty standard or do I have some sort of overall alignment problem? Thank you! Attached Images

08-30-2016, 08:37 AM	#31
snipescastle2 Registered User Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: WARRENSBURG,MISSOURI,64093 Posts: 1,518	Re: 383 stroker running too hot The factory did that intentionally. As the engine/transmission is at an angle for the driveline alignment. The black paint on the factory radiator was probably there to prevent corrosion, in my opinion, it would effect the heat transfer, otherwise, I'd say you're set and nothing to worry about. Ben Posted via Mobile Device __________________ "Persistence is the twin sister of Excellence.one is a matter of quality,the other, a matter of time" “Serious Black” my 1971 Short Bed Fleetside Sold to an outstanding man in Lees Summit,Mo. “Gone, but by no means,Forgotten”

08-30-2016, 10:34 AM	#32
leftybass209 Registered User Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Modesto, CA Posts: 2,186	Re: 383 stroker running too hot Glad to hear you solved the issue! Your radiator angle is fine. Any paint on a radiator is not a conventional paint, but rather a coating that doesn't inhibit the heat transfer of a radiator, and it's certainly not needed for aluminum.

08-30-2016, 01:20 PM	#33
bstock1962 Registered User Join Date: Aug 2016 Location: Idaho Posts: 42	Re: 383 stroker running too hot Forgot to mention too, I did get rid of the tranny aux cooler attached to the front of the AC condenser. Attached the cooling lines to the new radiator, and it seems to be cooling the th400 just fine. Thanks to all! Great forum with outstanding suggestions! Hope I can contribute something in the future.



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