frame swap - 61/76

[bill9000]

Hey everyone, I am in process of building a street hot rod type 2wd out of my 61 chevy...

so the situation is, the 61 is a 2wd longbed that's been sitting in a field for over 30 years, and I have decided to do something with it... the body is decent, nothing I cant handle fixing... but here's where my question comes in to play...

I absolutely need it to be a shortbed, so I had looked into shortening the frame at a local frame shop and they can do it for about $600... but then for my purposes (not original in anyway) - I also must have disc brakes and I'd like to have power steering too... so by the time I do those things to this one... it's gonna get pricey quick...

then I had this idea.... I have found a mid 70's chevy shortbed 2wd truck thats conveniently already lowered... and has a rough body... my intent is to put my body on that frame, and I'll instantly have disc brakes, power steering, and already be a shortbed...

my question for y'all is, any real huge problems with this that I am possibly not seeing?

not interested in purists saying not to do it, I'm a hot rod guy, not a "fix it stock" guy

thanks in advance for any thoughts!

[Clyde65]

This has been asked a bunch of times, just search frame swap.

Frame swaps aren't ideal because the 73 up have a large kick up after the cab. Also the frame horns are completely different.
Your better off swapping the disc brakes and rear end over to your 61.
There are also folks here that have done the short bed conversion as well, search for those as well

[bill9000]

Originally Posted by Clyde65

This has been asked a bunch of times, just search frame swap.

Frame swaps aren't ideal because the 73 up have a large kick up after the cab. Also the frame horns are completely different.
Your better off swapping the disc brakes and rear end over to your 61.
There are also folks here that have done the short bed conversion as well, search for those as well

thank you for the reply, I'll search more...

but if I fabricat body mounts and such, I can do it though? its possible?

the 76 already runs, and putting the body on that will REALLY fast-track my whole process.... as I'd still have to shorten the frame on the 61

[padresag]

I question get asked once a week. search. what is the wheelbase for a s/bed 61 and what is the w/base on the 76. I think that you will find out that they are not the same. also check with the Nv. MOV to see what youare going to do is legal
ron

[LostMy65]

Ah, just do it.
Of all the threads asking about this, many argue that they have the fab skills to do it. So I say go ahead and do it. Post up the process pics so we can see how it's done.
For some reason they never post back with their build pics showing the process.

[bill9000]

Originally Posted by LostMy65

Ah, just do it.
Of all the threads asking about this, many argue that they have the fab skills to do it. So I say go ahead and do it. Post up the process pics so we can see how it's done.
For some reason they never post back with their build pics showing the process.

we have fabrication ability, the reason I am wanting to do this, is the 76 runs and drives... has a rough body... the 61, is a long bed, so I'd have to shorten the frame, then it has 6-lug wheels and torsion bar susp, no power steering, no disc brakes.... and no real super easy motor mounts for a big block... my intention is to fabricate cab and front end mounts and get the truck running fairly quick.... if I buy disc brakes, etc. for the 61, shorten the frame, we are talking about a MAJOR undertaking...

I'm not looking to make a historically correct truck, or a "value" - I'm interested in a nice driver that I can use as a hot rod of sorts... lowered, big block, nice cam, nice pipes... nice driver, that's all.

Basically what I was looking for out of my post is, is there some unforeseen thing I am unaware of that would make this impossible, or tough enough that it wouldn't be worth it.

I've been searching, cant really find much, and finding conflicting reports

thanks!

[69chevytrucker]

no reason it cant be done! a frame can be shortened or stretched a body can be shortened or stretched, you can raise or drop a truck so i say go for it . put the cab where you need it on the frame build mounts where they need to go then fit the rest as you go.
anything can be done there is a whole movement on doing this kind of stuff i am pretty sure its called customizing or hot rod building something like that its been done for years.
if you have the skill and ability then go for it.

[69chevytrucker]

Originally Posted by LostMy65

Ah, just do it.
Of all the threads asking about this, many argue that they have the fab skills to do it. So I say go ahead and do it. Post up the process pics so we can see how it's done.
For some reason they never post back with their build pics showing the process.

funny i have gotten my berries busted on here many times for chopping up my truck even though when i bought it a few years ago it was a rusted out pos but i saved it not as a factory truck but a 69 on a 83 blazer frame but i think it turned out fine and have not once worried about the haters or the ones that say it couldnt or wouldnt work.

[Captainfab]

http://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vboa...d.php?t=481023

You can get the body lower if you don't mind cutting up the rear floor of the cab and reconfiguring that area.

[bpmcgee]

You don't say if it's a fleet or a step. If it's a step, the box itself was pretty much identical for many many years. Swap fenders and you'd be done I think.

I am, of course, speaking with the authority of someone who's never done it.

B

[patrickk1]

Without cutting into the cab for the frame kickup, it will look like your truck has a 3" body lift. Since the donor frame is already lowered, depending by how much, your truck will just look factory height. You say you have fabrication abilities, but then why aren't you shortening the frame yourself? Has the frame shop seen the frame in person? Do you have an x-frame? There is more work involved in shortening an x-frame than a normal frame. If I were you, and it's an x-frame, I'd just search around for the correct frame and use mid 70's front cross member and suspension. I have heard that the 73-87 suburban frames don't have the large kickup, but I've never verified.

[bill9000]

Originally Posted by 69chevytrucker

funny i have gotten my berries busted on here many times for chopping up my truck even though when i bought it a few years ago it was a rusted out pos but i saved it not as a factory truck but a 69 on a 83 blazer frame but i think it turned out fine and have not once worried about the haters or the ones that say it couldnt or wouldnt work.
Attachment 1568848

thanks much!

Originally Posted by Captainfab

http://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vboa...d.php?t=481023

You can get the body lower if you don't mind cutting up the rear floor of the cab and reconfiguring that area.

ok that would be ideal, I am trying to make a lowered hot rod, so sitting high would be no bueno! - so to channel the cab therem and drop it over the frame, not too tough?

[bill9000]

Originally Posted by bpmcgee

You don't say if it's a fleet or a step. If it's a step, the box itself was pretty much identical for many many years. Swap fenders and you'd be done I think.

I am, of course, speaking with the authority of someone who's never done it.

B

it is a stepside and yes, I was going to just buy two new stepside fenders and keep the bed for now. Glad to hear my theory on that 'should' be right...

[Mikemelton]

I have my '65 GMC on an '86 C10 frame it can be done with some fab work but like stated above we had to change the frame horns for the bumper to work, the body had to be spaced up to clear the humps in the frame and the frame is about an inch and a half longer than factory. It can be done mine has been this way for over 15 years. I am now in the process of building a '65 frame to replace it and am just going to swap the front end of the '86 over to keep power/disc brakes. And yes it does look like it has a body lift.
Posted via Mobile Device

[bill9000]

Originally Posted by Mikemelton

I have my '65 GMC on an '86 C10 frame it can be done with some fab work but like stated above we had to change the frame horns for the bumper to work, the body had to be spaced up to clear the humps in the frame and the frame is about an inch and a half longer than factory. It can be done mine has been this way for over 15 years. I am now in the process of building a '65 frame to replace it and am just going to swap the front end of the '86 over to keep power/disc brakes.
Posted via Mobile Device

thanks for the reply, that is good news to me!

so instead of spacing the body up, would it be a huge ordeal to channel the body a bit and drop it down? (I want the truck to sit really low)

[Mikemelton]

I'm sure you could we chose to modify the fram to fit the body since it was originally my great grandfather's truck and I'll have it forever. Here is a picture after the swap with 2" lowering springs in the front and 2" shackles in the rear with 235/60r15s

[Captainfab]

In my opinion, if you are wanting a lowered truck, starting with a '73+ frame is not the best starting point. I do not know how much work is involved in channeling the rear of the cab to accomodate the '73+ frames as I have never done it. I did build the truck shown in the thread I linked to and will never use a '73+ frame under a '60-'66 again. It is simply not worth all the work for absolutely no gain in using the newer frame. It is much easier to use either an original frame, or at least one the fits the body correctly and change the front suspension and add power steering, etc. I am not a fan of the '60-'62 frames, so I would likely also be looking for a different frame, But I would go with a '63-'66 frame. A second choice for a donor frame would be a '67-'72. The trailing arm and coil spring rear suspension is superior to leaf springs as well.

Originally Posted by bill9000

ok that would be ideal, I am trying to make a lowered hot rod, so sitting high would be no bueno! - so to channel the cab therem and drop it over the frame, not too tough?

[bill9000]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

In my opinion, if you are wanting a lowered truck, starting with a '73+ frame is not the best starting point. I do not know how much work is involved in channeling the rear of the cab to accomodate the '73+ frames as I have never done it. I did build the truck shown in the thread I linked to and will never use a '73+ frame under a '60-'66 again. It is simply not worth all the work for absolutely no gain in using the newer frame. It is much easier to use either an original frame, or at least one the fits the body correctly and change the front suspension and add power steering, etc. I am not a fan of the '60-'62 frames, so I would likely also be looking for a different frame, But I would go with a '63-'66 frame. A second choice for a donor frame would be a '67-'72. The trailing arm and coil spring rear suspension is superior to leaf springs as well.

thank you for the help, I appreciate it!

My challenge is, there are NO other frames to be had... the 76 that I found, actually runs and drives... my challenge would be with the 61 if I used it's frame, is that I'd have to shorten the frame, then somehow get it from 6 lug to 5 lug... I need disc brakes, and power steering would be really nice. - I feel like channeling the cab would be easier than trying to change all the suspension, disc brakes,etc and shortening the frame on the 61?

while I can see its not ideal for lowered, it does still appear like easier than the alternative for me, since I do not have the ability to get any different frames at this time.

[LVPhotos]

Because it's soooooo hard to bolt the same stuff on the x frame! �� just cut the frame. And there are 6 lug rims, brakes and a lot more support for this 60-62 frame now. Stick with the torsion bars and use drop spindles. Unless baGS are the route. Last picture is torsion bars only and rear bags. Any lower would be contacting inner fenders.

[bill9000]

Originally Posted by LVPhotos

Because it's soooooo hard to bolt the same stuff on the x frame! �� just cut the frame. And there are 6 lug rims, brakes and a lot more support for this 60-62 frame now. Stick with the torsion bars and use drop spindles. Unless baGS are the route. Last picture is torsion bars only and rear bags. Any lower would be contacting inner fenders.

thanks for the pics, looks good,

I realize that disc brake conversions can be had for it now, but it's very expensive, like over $1000 - and I already have the 76 truck... what I was hoping to do was get my body on the 76 and have the truck drivable quickly.

and I definitely don't want 6-lug wheels, I'm trying to make a hot rod look, and the 5 lug wheel selection is much more appropriate for my needs...

:/

[padresag]

Originally Posted by Mikemelton

I'm sure you could we chose to modify the fram to fit the body since it was originally my great grandfather's truck and I'll have it forever. Here is a picture after the swap with 2" lowering springs in the front and 2" shackles in the rear with 235/60r15s

the spacing in the wheel wells is quite noticable when you don't shorten the later frames to the proper w/base

ron

[padresag]

Originally Posted by bill9000

thank you for the help, I appreciate it!

My challenge is, there are NO other frames to be had... the 76 that I found, actually runs and drives... my challenge would be with the 61 if I used it's frame, is that I'd have to shorten the frame, then somehow get it from 6 lug to 5 lug... I need disc brakes, and power steering would be really nice. - I feel like channeling the cab would be easier than trying to change all the suspension, disc brakes,etc and shortening the frame on the 61?

while I can see its not ideal for lowered, it does still appear like easier than the alternative for me, since I do not have the ability to get any different frames at this time.

I don't know how hard you have looked for a frame but they are out there. we now know that you have the 76 frame and that you don't want to spend any money,so I wonder why this discussion endures.
there is a fellow who has quite a few frames in Idaho if you want his address
63-66 frames . may even have a short one or two
ron

[Softpatch]

I might be mistaken ...It happens quite often
I believe the 73-80 truck are "wide trac"
meaning wide width between tires
.
Why I used a 72 under my 63 almost a bolt on and go
got disc pw pb Big drums out back 5X5 1/4
.
.

Originally Posted by bpmcgee

You don't say if it's a fleet or a step. If it's a step, the box itself was pretty much identical for many many years. Swap fenders and you'd be done I think.

I am, of course, speaking with the authority of someone who's never done it.

B

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[Captainfab]

Originally Posted by bill9000

thanks for the pics, looks good,

I realize that disc brake conversions can be had for it now, but it's very expensive, like over $1000 - and I already have the 76 truck... what I was hoping to do was get my body on the 76 and have the truck drivable quickly.

and I definitely don't want 6-lug wheels, I'm trying to make a hot rod look, and the 5 lug wheel selection is much more appropriate for my needs...
:/

With having to build all of the body and bed mounts along with channeling the cab, I don't think this is going to be a on the road quickly build.

If you could find a '67-'72 frame, that would be a better choice than the '76 frame.

Originally Posted by Softpatch

I might be mistaken ...It happens quite often
I believe the 73-80 truck are "wide trac"
meaning wide width between tires
.
Why I used a 72 under my 63 almost a bolt on and go
got disc pw pb Big drums out back 5X5 1/4

The '73-'87 trucks and their differentials are the same width as the '71-'72 trucks.

['63GENIII]

Originally Posted by padresag

I don't know how hard you have looked for a frame but they are out there. we now know that you have the 76 frame and that you don't want to spend any money,so I wonder why this discussion endures.
there is a fellow who has quite a few frames in Idaho if you want his address
63-66 frames . may even have a short one or two
ron

Id have to agree with you Ron. There's a guy up in Marysville who always seems to be posting axles, transfer cases and complete rolling frames for the 60-66 genre on CL. Ive seen his place on the way to Collins Lake and he does have quite an inventory. The point is, he seems to post a frame every few months or so.

For what its worth (and Im not saying its much at all), my first truck was sold to me as a '62 long fleet K10. I bought it sight unseen when my kid brother said it looked pretty clean. Turned out to be a '62 C10 on a 68 or later Burb frame. I wouldn't have put my kids in it to go around the block with the cobbled up brackets that were holding the cab and bed to the frame. I ended up giving that truck to a friend of his in a trade. If your fab skills aren't completely on point, I would try and work with an existing frame to accomplish what you're doing. Add to the picture that if you're only modifying the existing frame to fit the "stance" or purpose that you want, you may end up money ahead by not using a different frame. Disc brakes, bags, engine / trans swaps have all been done with the original frames. A different frame just adds another task to the mix.